Kayfun V5 leaking... Problem solved!

[jcoopercam]

So I received my authentic Kayfun V5 last week from Origin Vape. I also have experienced the same leakage issues regarding the stock o-ring set. As far as I can tell, replacing the stock set with the replacement kit has fixed the leaking issue. I wasn't getting the kind of vaping experience I expected for the first two days? After leaving it sit overnight, I grabbed my Triade w/Kayfun 5 and was absolutely blown-away by the flavor and vapor production! So, why did it take a full night of sitting to get the kind of performance I expected? I suspect the issue was due to an air lock within the coil chamber. The only logical explanation, is that it took the entire night to let 100% of the air to bleed from the chamber. Before refilling the tank (today), I decided to do a thorough cleaning of the unit. After filling the tank, and opening the JFC to 2 1/2 turns, I'm getting around 50% performance. When I'm successful at remove the air, it functions perfectly. It's hit-and-miss with this thing. Others are telling me that shouldn't be having issues, and that 70% VG is not an issue. I may need to have mine replaced.

 

[Chodi]

You did not comment to the contrary so I am going to assume that your KF is original? I have two clones one from sjmy and one from Tobeco. Only time I ever experienced a juice feed issue was on the Tobeco when it developed a mechanical problem after considerable use. I have to replace the deck to get it going again properly. the sjmy has never had any problem. I use 70% vg juice all the time. I think you have a defective unit.

The odd shape of the top cap is designed to purge the air when you close it. That may be the source of your problem.

 

[Arnold Ziffle]

or just turn it upside down and let the pressure stabilize.

 

[DaveP]

I haven't used my (Tobecco? EHPro?) Kayfun 5 in over a year. Back then, the fix for juice feed, if I remember correctly, was to close off the juice feed and loosen and re-tighten the top cap to relieve the vacuum. Then, we'd open the juice flow again.

I went back to my Kayfun Lite Plus V2 and never looked back. I've tried so many newer so-called MTL tanks in the last couple of years and always reverted back to the KF2. It's just too easy for MTL vaping.

 

[Chodi]

If you fill the Kayfun 5 without closing the juice flow first you will flood the deck. That will result in juice coming out of the airflow. I agree that the shape of the top cap is the key to getting the air pressure right after filling. As one other poster suggested after closing the top turning it upside down for a couple of seconds can help to build the vacuum. Failing that, you have an air leak.

 

[jcoopercam]

You did not comment to the contrary so I am going to assume that your KF is original? I have two clones one from sjmy and one from Tobeco. Only time I ever experienced a juice feed issue was on the Tobeco when it developed a mechanical problem after considerable use. I have to replace the deck to get it going again properly. the sjmy has never had any problem. I use 70% vg juice all the time. I think you have a defective unit.

The odd shape of the top cap is designed to purge the air when you close it. That may be the source of your problem.

Thank you everyone for your advice. Mine is an authentic KF5 from Origin. I have edited out the steps I took, as I'm still having issues. I'm finding that I have to open the JFC to 4 full turns to completely remove the air. I replaced the o-rings, so I don't see how I can have a leak in the unit? Bad o-rings maybe?

If I blow air into it, it blows fluid through the AFC. Not a lot, but it comes out. Every 5 minutes or so, I get a large air bubble coming from the chamber.

 

[jcoopercam]

I agree that the shape of the top cap is the key to getting the air pressure right after filling. As one other poster suggested after closing the top turning it upside down for a couple of seconds can help to build the vacuum. Failing that, you have an air leak.

How does the shape of the top cap contribute to air removal? Is this some kind of "closed system"? Where would the air be coming in?

 

[Cosmic_Glaze]

How does the shape of the top cap contribute to air removal? Is this some kind of "closed system"? Where would the air be coming in?

With the juice flow closed and you are putting the top cap back on. it allows pressure to be released through the cut grooves on the top cap till it seals.. there for it does not force juice into the coil which could cause leaking.(after opening the juice flow) That's my understanding of it.

 

[jcoopercam]

With the juice flow closed and you are putting the top cap back on. it allows pressure to be released through the cut grooves on the top cap till it seals.. there for it does not force juice into the coil which could cause leaking.(after opening the juice flow) That's my understanding of it.

Understood. It's hitting better, but if I adjust the AFC I get liquid on my fingers... Is this normal? I just replaced the o-rings today. There is a 7.5mm o-ring that apparently does not come with the kit. This is the o-ring that sits under the base of the post screw. To replace this o-ring, I would need to use a small nut driver to remove the center post.

 

[jcoopercam]

Okay... I've decreased the max preheat to 50F and TC to 420F. Flavor is really coming on!

I'm sure the leaking issue can be resolved, I just need to be sure it's not a problem with the machining. Two of the o-rings are tough to get on without twisting them. I may have to try the other spares.

 

[jcoopercam]

Update: I disassembled the bottom half of the unit (tank full) to inspect for leakage and wiped it clean... Nothing! No leaks at all. Must have been left-over fluid from when I opened it up without closing the AFC. Flavor and vapor are outrageous!

Ordered a SMJY clone, just cuz.

 

[Chodi]

Just for the record...you do not have to close the afc when refilling. You only need close the juice flow control by twisting the tank clockwise. Counter clockwise to open. You should not have to open more than two turns. It depends on your juice but if you look around at various post you will see that most people use 2-3 turns. More than 3 turns can contribute to your flooding and leakage. Honestly I have two and use 70%vg juice. I never get leaks.

 

[jcoopercam]

Just for the record...you do not have to close the afc when refilling. You only need close the juice flow control by twisting the tank clockwise. Counter clockwise to open. You should not have to open more than two turns. It depends on your juice but if you look around at various post you will see that most people use 2-3 turns. More than 3 turns can contribute to your flooding and leakage. Honestly I have two and use 70%vg juice. I never get leaks.

Thank you. If I said AFC, I meant to say JFC. I just got through rebuilding the nest assembly. Question... Is it normal to get air bubbles coming from the ports of the chamber after vaping? It seems like it lags a bit, then wicks-up as the air bubbles bleed-out. I am pulling air into the chamber, so I'll assume this is normal. Just seems like it may be getting an air-lock in it. I take a few pulls, tilt it to the side, and a large air bubble floats to the surface.

 

[Chodi]

To answer your question, you will probably not see a lot of air bubbles unless you are using 50/50 juice. I use high vg juice and I only see occasional bubbles and it works just fine. I don't make any special effort to lean the tank. If you are not getting dry hits then it is just a matter of a slight turn (quarter turn) one way or the other to dial things in with your juice.

 

[Opinionated]

Thank you everyone for your advice. Mine is an authentic KF5 from Origin. I have edited out the steps I took, as I'm still having issues. I'm finding that I have to open the JFC to 4 full turns to completely remove the air. I replaced the o-rings, so I don't see how I can have a leak in the unit? Bad o-rings maybe?

If I blow air into it, it blows fluid through the AFC. Not a lot, but it comes out. Every 5 minutes or so, I get a large air bubble coming from the chamber.

It's the pawns edition right? Did you get it working correctly?

@kas122461 - you got one of these recently can you help out with this? Not sure if he fixed all his problems, but perhaps you can be helpful..

 

[kas122461]

It's the pawns edition right? Did you get it working correctly?

@kas122461 - you got one of these recently can you help out with this? Not sure if he fixed all his problems, but perhaps you can be helpful..

I have not used it yet, I want to get the MTL reducer kit first before I try it, along with more backup parts and pieces. I over spent this month, and I have to wait until next month.

KAS

 

[Opinionated]

I have not used it yet, I want to get the MTL reducer kit first before I try it, along with more backup parts and pieces. I over spent this month, and I have to wait until next month.

KAS

Okay cool..

I understand about overspending.. I did that over the last few months myself!

 

[jcoopercam]

I let the tank sit overnight, and found some fluid at the base of the atomizer. If you were to ask me, I'd tell you that the base o-ring is too small in diameter; but there are alternatives. IMO, the channel needs to be deeper and a larger diameter (properly lubricated) o-ring implemented. A dual o-ring system at the base, using the stock sized o-rings is another alternative.

Stay tuned...

 

[jcoopercam]

I just got through with a thorough assessment of the Kayfun V5 o-ring system. The prevailing opinion is, that the stock o-rings are of questionable quality, and that replacing them with the provided set is the resolve to the leakage issue. I don't believe this is entirely correct. What people are effectively doing, is adding lubrication where none previously existed. In my profession, I deal with air and water leaks on a daily basis. Even the most precision designed suction/pressure pumps will suffer leakage without proper lubrication at key positions. O-rings that are subjected to part-vs-part movement MUST be properly lubricated. PG and VG do not qualify as lubricants, but may keep the inner o-ring from leaking.

Per my research, the stock Kayfun V5 o-rings are not being properly lubricated during assembly. Here's how I addressed the issue:

I used CRC NSF H1 (base and top cap o-rings only) which is a food-grade water-resistant Aluminum complex grease. For the inner o-rings, I used an alternate food-grade lubricant. The top and base o-ring are "key" o-rings on this device. There are literally hundreds of lubricant formulations, each designed for a specific job. Do not just choose a specific brand, just because it is listed as "food-grade". Some of them have additives that can create other issues, so you need the correct formulation for the job.

For the inner o-rings, use organic coconut oil paste.
https://www.amazon.com/Viva-Natural...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E4153GSSM98W0BPJK00M

For the base o-ring and top cap o-rings, use CRC NSF H1 lubricant, or Water-Lube brand lubricant. Water-Lube isn't as thick, and it is much easier to remove when cleaning.
Multi Purpose Food Grade Grease, 14 Wt Oz
https://www.amazon.com/Water-Grease...d=1497819297&sr=8-1&keywords=water+lube+Jandy

As a licensed contractor, I can purchase these lubricants for much less. I may start offering them, if anyone is interested. I've been using my V5 since lubricating, and haven't had any issues with leakage. Even after repeated adjustments of the AFC, there is no leakage. I still think the Kayfun V5 base o-ring needs to be a bit wider in diameter. Sometimes, too much "precision" isn't always a good thing.

 

[Cosmic_Glaze]

I just got through with a thorough assessment of the Kayfun V5 o-ring system. The prevailing opinion is, that the stock o-rings are of questionable quality, and that replacing them with the provided set is the resolve to the leakage issue. I don't believe this is entirely correct. What people are effectively doing, is adding lubrication where none previously existed. In my profession, I deal with air and water leaks on a daily basis. Even the most precision designed suction/pressure pumps will suffer leakage without proper lubrication at key positions. O-rings that are subjected to part-vs-part movement MUST be properly lubricated. PG and VG do not qualify as lubricants, but may keep the inner o-ring from leaking.

Per my research, the stock Kayfun V5 o-rings are not being properly lubricated during assembly. Here's how I addressed the issue:

I used CRC NSF H1 (base and top cap o-rings only) which is a food-grade water-resistant Aluminum complex grease. For the inner o-rings, I used an alternate food-grade lubricant. The top and base o-ring are "key" o-rings on this device. There are literally hundreds of lubricant formulations, each designed for a specific job. Do not just choose a specific brand, just because it is listed as "food-grade". Some of them have additives that can create other issues, so you need the correct formulation for job.

For the inner o-rings, use Water-Lube brand lubricant.
Amazon.com: Water Lube for Jandy Valve Grease Cap, Pool Filter O-Rings, Gaskets 1.75 Oz Tube: Kitchen & Dining

For the base o-ring and top cap o-rings, use CRC NSF H1 lubricant.
Multi Purpose Food Grade Grease, 14 Wt Oz

As a licensed contractor, I can purchase these lubricants for much less. I may start offering them, if anyone is interested.

I keep it simple.. Vaseline "Lip therapy" it comes in a tiny tube at your local drug store. It's unflavored. I can only "assume" it's food grade quality cuz it's supposed to go on your lips....Lol. I have all the original o-rings still on mine from almost a year ago.

As far as builds, I've thrown about everything this tank can fit in it the past year... and this is what I like best and settled on for the KF5

Try this.....
28g Kanthal 2.5 id (perfect size for cotton wicks in the well)
6-7 wraps
Mtl reducer kit (smallest reducer)

Add some high nic juice and enjoy
Simple and flavorful vape