Isn't the little brass pin on the side spring-loaded? I would think it should fit if you push it back while fitting it in the tube.
Kick clone aka Sigelei K show and tell
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Isn't the little brass pin on the side spring-loaded? I would think it should fit if you push it back while fitting it in the tube.
i'm not sure if it is. i know i got it down my precise the first day, but took it out to fit in my 19b. i'll gently push the brass pin and see if goes in and try again in my precise. For right now i've gotten the 19b smoother so that will be my primary vape.
for those having trouble with the sig K firing.... Sometimes with screwing the telescoping mod together, the sig K doesn't make contact with the battery. Be sure it is sitting directly on the battery throughout the process. You can give it a shove and won't harm it. I was able to get it to fit in either end of my Sig 19b. The top tube was tight, but i was afraid to shove it at first.
I push it down the tube > put the battery in the bottom and telescope it up to meet the sig K. then i back off the tube to allow the top to fit. Seems to have worked for intermittent issues with Sig K. It has room to move around in my Sig 19b which could be remedied with a condom, but i want to use it also in my precise if i can, so i can't modify it.
hope this helps someone with issues with it. i really like it and am willing to troubleshoot it's position in the telescoping mod to get it right. I've found "no fire" = it isn't touching the battery
Thas what i will try. So far i think i have a dud sig-K. It will not fire. Ive tried in on my #20. And now on the #19 but nogo.. I even gringed the inside tube of the sig#19 but stil nothing
did you buy from a vendor with a return policy? i put mine in the top of the tube and shove it down. with the grooves in the telescoping tube, i don't want it to tilt or get stuck. i shove it down far enough that i can mate the battery to it (put the battery on the side of the mod tube to see where it will position) when i put the bottom button on. a little trial and error. I don't have a #20, but i'd say if it doesn't work in that then it's probably a dud. the 20 is like a bolt right? where you just sit it on top of the battery and you're done?
icu - also check the bottom brass thing on the sig k and make sure it is centered over the positive nipple on battery. i gave mine a light scrub with some jewelers sand paper. i don't know what it's called. i suppose i could use noalox too, but i remember reading on my precise to only put the noalox on the neg side of the battery. don't know if it's true or not.
also try several diff batteries. flat top and otherwise. if that doesn't do it and you have a window to return it (or not if the vendor is nice) contact your vendor and see if they'll swap it out.
also try several diff batteries. flat top and otherwise. if that doesn't do it and you have a window to return it (or not if the vendor is nice) contact your vendor and see if they'll swap it out.
Did you adjust it up a bit? I find the -K a bit hit and miss in my #20 but the mod is to big around and it fits loose. Works perfect in my CCTS so I know it functions correctly.
I followed ur tips thanks. I got it to fire i hear the lil rattle snake sound.. Only thing is i have to add pressure to the bottom tube so the ground contact hots the sides. I'll try adding a little shim on the c-k. To make it have good contact thanks
??? Thats why I use a Crown...lower voltage shutoff than a Kick, plus it always fires unlike my Kicks....
Im thinking about wether to go with kick or crown? U like crown better huh?
If you had the chose between this one or the real Evolv Kick, which one would you get?
Say money wasn't a problem
Say money wasn't a problem
If money isn't an option I would go with the real deal. It doesn't do the rattle snake thing that all the china made PV's do, it fits in more devices, and it does a better job of letting me know when the battery needs replacing. The real kick is better.
I picked up 3 for $15 each, works great in the K100. I don't get a rattlesnake. when the charge runs low, it stops working, which is a pretty obvious sign to me. not sure how the real kick is better.
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Interesting about the 'rattle snake' sound, you don't get it but the OP does...
Is anyone using it without using shrink wrap on it too?
I have to decide if to get this Kick clone or the real thing, it's like I could buy 2 of these for 1 real kick....
My fingers keep saying order, but at the same time holding back to read more about this clone....
My fingers keep saying order, but at the same time holding back to read more about this clone....
Well, I have 2 of the Sig units arriving from a CoOp. As such, I will be able to decide for myself, which is better, if at all.
- Andy
- Andy
Sometimes the kick and the kick clone have grounding problems and just stop working. I prefer the studer vape that the real kick gives you letting you know that it really is the battery. There is no guess work. The first time my battery got down to 3 volts because I kept unscrewing my mod thinking it was just loosing contact.
If you know that the clone will fit in the mod you want to put it in then its a decent substitute. I still like the real kick better though mainly because it doesn't use pulse width modulation. If you are familiar with the vamo, zmax (Sigelie or Smok), or the SVD then you should know what I'm talking about.
You originally asked if money wasn't an option which one would I get. I still say the real kick. If you can't or really don't want to spend the extra money then get the clone. The differences are small and if you have no experience with the real kick then I think you will be happy with the clone.
it depends on what type of atomizer youre using. the rattlesnake isnt audible on all attys. use something like a carto or carto tank and you can really hear it. with a RDA, its silent.
my kick does not stop working when the batt is low. this can be seen as good or bad. i like it when i want moar batt life, but i dont really like it because its not very safe. twice i hadnt realized how long id been puffing on it and discharged my batt completely. batt metered just over 2.5v both times. no bueno.
maybe i got a v1 and now theres a v2 that does indeed stop functioning at 3.2v, but mine definitely does not. i did preorder mine on the very first shipment a while back.
my real kick does everything its advertised to do. and without PWM, which is fantastic.
kick clones dont have shrink wrap. unless you install your own. but that would make it bulkier and probably then not fit in most mods. its already slightly wider than a real kick and for this reason doesnt fit in one of my mechs. incedently, the larger diameter allows it to actually fit Better in my other mech, while the real kick doesnt fit properly.
which mod will you be using your kick/kickclone in? that will possibly be a big factor. for reference my GGTS fits a evolv kick perfectly, and does not fit the kick clone. on the other hand, my caravela clone fits the kick clone perfectly, whicle the evolv kick does not fit.
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Jeebus #(@!ing Christy with all this "X fits A and B but not C" and "Y fits B and C but not A" bizness.
Gah!!!!!
Gah!!!!!
I decided to go for the click clone, see how it goes, if it's not great then I will get the real one
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