killed my first atty with the Prodigy...

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vaporize me

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I posted a review in the "Prodigy reviews" thread, that I thought getting a Prodigy would be the same experience as my 401 PT (without the in-line battery) using a Kensington PP, only wireless. Not quite.. IMHO, no comparison. Maybe it is the manual switch maybe it is the 801/901 atty. But I do have to say that the Prodigy blows it away. Of course this is only my opinion..take it for what its worth.
 

Momof3

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Using the 801 PT I bought from you in Feb I think it was Steve. No inline batt. I use it plugged into an AC/USB power adapter (output-5V 1.5A). Yes with my ancient 801 attys.

So I was expecting pretty much the same vape as I have now, minus the cord. I guess if it kills off my raggedy 801 attys I'll bronze them and have an excuse to buy more. LOL

Haven't worried much about the 801 attys. It's the 510s I'm expecting to run through. I just seem to have bad luck with them.
 

rsngfrce

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The first PureSmoker 801 atomizer I connected to my Podigy lasted 1 second then died. It's a good thing I bought a spare. I have contacted support.

Well, now my other atomizer is dead. I have NEVER had an atomizer die before this. I am familiar with manual e-cigs and do not hold the button in for an extended period of time. I now have a very expensive Prodigy that I cannot use... I'm not really happy about this...
 

Enfield

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Oh I totally understand that fact, and that's why I'm seriously considering the Prodigy :) I do want to know how to tell what sort of passthrough I'm currently using though, so I know what to expect, and how to treat it --- Knowing being half the battle :) Any input on what I should look for on my current passthrough to identify it as a true passthrough, or just an inline battery? Does it look different, or are there numbers on the end I should be looking for, etc? Pictures available if needed!

Yira, my 510 PT is not a "true" PT because it has an inline battery, and it looks like this:

77.jpg


I think that your 401 PT does *not* have an in-line battery, and thus should be vaping near 5 volts.
 

Yirabeth

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Thanks so much, Enfield! I do indeed have a "real" passthrough..no extra little box on mine :)

It helps to know I'm probably pretty well accustomed to managing heat from the passthrough, although mine is not manual, so I'll have a bit of learning curve there.

It also explains why I'm so dissatisfied with using my batteries..I didn't realize til this thread that I was experiencing two totally seperate voltages in vaping. I do think the Prodigy is for me!

Now to get my car fixed and hope I have enough money left to splurge...LOL (waiting on a call on that as I type...)

~Yira
 

Enfield

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Actually this thread just taught me the difference between vaping 3.7 volts on my in-line-battery 510 PT and vaping 5 volts on a true PT stuck on a portable power pack. Very enlightening. I've never been happy with the performance of my 510 PT (pretty doggy); I prefer the performance of my 510 on a freshly charged battery as opposed to the PT.

I just placed an order for the fabulous new PureSmoker passthrough, which looks to be very promising. One can order all kinds of adapters for it to fit all kinds of e-cigs, plus it vapes at 5 volts (I think). Hopefully it will be the last PT I'll ever need. PureSmoker has a back-log of orders for their PT, so it'll prob'ly be a while until I get to try it out.

Oh yeah, did I mention I have a Prodigy on order too? Woo hoo! :D
 

rinkusu

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Well, now my other atomizer is dead. I have NEVER had an atomizer die before this. I am familiar with manual e-cigs and do not hold the button in for an extended period of time. I now have a very expensive Prodigy that I cannot use... I'm not really happy about this...

Add me to the list of popped atomizers (mid-toke as well). I've contacted support as well. I have only been taking 2-3 second tokes. Perhaps something is wrong with the resistor?
 

vaporize me

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I think for me it was the unfamiliarity of the 801 atty. I definitely flooded it and it popped during mid-vape.

I took the new atty off the adapter today and I noticed a pool of nicquid on the bottom of the adapter well. I'm trying not to drip onto the atty and this is the result of a cart..must've been overfilled, obviously.
 

CaSHMeRe

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Hey Guys .... No doubt Atomizers will Pop ...

RSN/RINK/Lady ... We'll take care of ya'll :)

Just make sure to be careful ... A *bad* resistor would simply just not work, not pop an atomizer :)

There are several key things to remember:
1) When liquid starts to pool, you need to make sure to dry it off and clean it out. When liquid builds up, its takes MORE power, to get the same hit, thus eventually heating up the atomizer even more.
2) I blow out my atomizers DAILY. DAILY (normally mid day or so) I blow out the atomizer and get all that liquid out. Again, excess liquid build up = more power to get the same vapor/throat hit ... = hotter the atomizer. When I blow out the atomizer at this time, I also dry off both fittings, and square off a piece of paper towel to soak up all the excess liquid.

:)
 

rsngfrce

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WELL... I'm kinda confused. The first atomizer I tried DEFINATELY popped after one second... I measured the resistance and it is infinity which means bad.

I measured the resistance on the second atomizer which was not working and it was 3.6, so it seemed it should still be good.

I tried a third 801 atomizer (that I got from elsewhere than PureSmoker) and it seemed to work for about a second on the Prodigy then stop... but this atomizer also has good resistance when I tested it.

I tried the second and third atomizers on the Prodigy again and now they were working again?

I tested the voltage of the Prodigy while pushing the switch and get a reading of 6.6v . I am NOT yet a multimeter expert, but unless I am doing something incorrectly, doesn't this indicate that the resistor is not working? I checked the resistance of the resistor and got a reading of .9 .

Then put the working atomizer back on and got NOTHING. Loosened the adapater a bit, retightened it, atomizer working.

So, at this point I am quite mystified as to what my problem is with erratic atomizer performance... :confused:
 

rsngfrce

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And (this may sound idiotic ... so bear with me) You are FULLY depressing the button right? Basic, but we have had a few people having this issue :)

Also, how do the threads looks on the end cap?

Well, at this early stage I wouldn't rule anything out :oops:... but if I push the button and get nothing, I'm pretty sure I would be SURE I was pushing the button all the way when I tried it again. Though, it seems to have to be recessed VERY LITTLE below the top of the switch in order to function (less than I expected for non-accidental pushing reasons).

The threads on both ends look like threads. Just took both ends off, put them back on... atomizer not working...

Loosened adapter about 1/8th of a turn, retightened, atomizer working...
 

CaSHMeRe

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Contact looks to be hit or miss and may be sitting a little *too* high up. What I would likely do, screw on the adapter as best you can, then unloosen by about 1/2 - 1 full turn. Take a screw driver and hammer (with atomizer off) and tap the contact post down until it won't go down any further. Tighten up, and you should be good to go.

Give that a shot and let me know :)
 

CaSHMeRe

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For the purpose of testing... just measured a 18650 3.7V battery, got a reading of 4.18V. Put it in the Prodigy, pushed the button, got a measurement of 4.18V from the adapter. This indicates the resistor is not working as far as I can tell... :confused:

I'm assuming, you didn't test it UNDER LOAD ;) 2 very different things!!! :)

EDIT: Its not the switch/resistor ... Its the upper contact post that meets the adapter.
 
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