have the same issue with the whistling and air hole. Don't mind it much but it is a slightly tighter draw
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have the same issue with the whistling and air hole. Don't mind it much but it is a slightly tighter draw
I have a Killer...
I would advise waiting for Achilles from Imeo of GG. It is the same thing, but he has seen the Killer and said Achilles is much better. There will be a pre-order soon. subscribe to the GG Pre-order announcement thread.Here's the thread about Achilles.
I think so. I love the shortness of it and minimalist style. I, also, like the ceramic cup aspect although I don't like having to use non-resistance wire to build them; just extra steps in a too time stressed life, but I think so worth it. Now, keep in mind I have paid for Hornets, ERAs, and Surface so that should say something. I do prefer the cap hole instead of the bottom air, all of which I have to constrict airflow on, as I like stiffer draw. In my not so humble opinion, if you need a small diameter BF rba, the best deal is the Mini A7. Surface and Mini A7 (clone of Mini A7; only difference is heavier, more metal in Surface cap) are virtually identical with a huge price difference. I like to support original makers but money can be a huge factor for most of us (and should be for me)
I've torched a bunch of my stainless steel RBAs (to take them from light brass to almost black) and they look great. I'll do one of the Killer 705 and post pic.
Feisty Alice
That may well be but everyone knows how difficult it is to get anything gg - including the consumables. You can get a killer 705 now .... the achilles has been bantered about for several months now and is supposed to be available in March yet the pre-order hasn't started....guess it depends on how long a vapor is willing to wait for their carto/tank solution.
I have an AGR coming in for the Killer, but then this is posted. However, after looking at it, I don't see how it is better? I don't see how it will manage juice flow etc. I like the idea of the K-705 more, looks like a pocketable RTA.
I forgot to add, did they revise the K-705 because the price has shot up compared to what everyone is saying they went for. Revision? Standard price? Just wondering, hopefully they run a sale or something sometime, but I doubt it.
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Overseas only as far as I know, and if there was to be one shop in the US to carry it, my bets are on Vape Revolution.
The Killer
KILLER 705
The Killer
KILLER 705
greekvapes is out of stock - just checked. That's where I bought mine - but they and houseofmods have run out an re-stocked the past few weeks - keep an eye out.
My killer should be here today. Gonna attempt to make it work with the Jazz Carto Tank without wasting tons of juice. I hope I can get this thing to work. If not on to the classies it goes.
I emailed them asking about where the fill screw is, it is located in the tube for the 19mm one, and the fill screw on the 22mm is being beta tested right now but is currently on the tube. They said on the 22mm they might be able to put it on the top cap. I don't think having it on the tube would work for me, I can see it snagging when I am pulling my pv out of my pocket.
WARNING
The Killer 705 on the Poldiac.
The positive post on the Poldiac is a hair thinner than the adapter in the Killer. So when it pushes the floating pin in to the adapter it allows the 510 threads on the adapter to make contact with the second lip on the Poldiac center pin. This creates a hard short and will melt the spring and cause the batt to fail.
This is a very dangerous combination. This will send a batt into thermal failure if there is not enough room once the spring collapses, for the connection to be cut off.
The Killer 705 on the Poldiac.
The positive post on the Poldiac is a hair thinner than the adapter in the Killer. So when it pushes the floating pin in to the adapter it allows the 510 threads on the adapter to make contact with the second lip on the Poldiac center pin. This creates a hard short and will melt the spring and cause the batt to fail.
This is a very dangerous combination. This will send a batt into thermal failure if there is not enough room once the spring collapses, for the connection to be cut off.
Of the 2 killers we ordered - one had a funky NR wire - no matter what I did that sucker wouldn't stay in place. 
The first couple of days was awesome then the trouble started...fluctuating ohm readings - without a change in the juice intake it would go from 1.8 to 4.8 
I'm new at rebuilding but I figured this was a short. I'd fiddle with the wire - have it seated and it would work for a bit then it would start the erratic ohm changes. Today I decided that since my new ceramics had arrived, in higher resistance which I prefer, I'd change the ceramic/coil.
Upon opening the killer - I saw a small piece of the NR wire had come off- it fell out of the bell
- which is where my short was coming from I presume.
I took my new pre-wired ceramic and attempted to put it on the post......no way.....over and over again. Comparing the 2 ceramics, new and used, it appears that bottom hole is larger on the one that was pre-installed. But I persevered! Those ceramics are tough! At one point I used jewelers pliers (thick plastic covers the gripping area) to remove the ceramic as it would not seat fully and was jammed on there pretty good. I did this about 4 times and voila! It seated on my next attempt without force.
I now have a consistent 2.3 ohm atomizer - flavor and vapor are awesome. I did forget to open the bell back up and run the wire along a thread - but so far it hasn't been an issue....if that changes I'll open it back up.
Adeline? The AGR tank works wonderful! Thanks for the heads up on those! I don't have to disassemble to adjust the juice feed and I haven't had any air control issues to need to fiddle with it.
I have what I need to rebuild coils (which looks like it will be a task as the area is so small) and I have the correct wick size en route
Any tips on wrapping coils for such a small space would be appreciated
The first couple of days was awesome then the trouble started...fluctuating ohm readings - without a change in the juice intake it would go from 1.8 to 4.8 I'm new at rebuilding but I figured this was a short. I'd fiddle with the wire - have it seated and it would work for a bit then it would start the erratic ohm changes. Today I decided that since my new ceramics had arrived, in higher resistance which I prefer, I'd change the ceramic/coil.Upon opening the killer - I saw a small piece of the NR wire had come off- it fell out of the bell
- which is where my short was coming from I presume.I took my new pre-wired ceramic and attempted to put it on the post......no way.....over and over again. Comparing the 2 ceramics, new and used, it appears that bottom hole is larger on the one that was pre-installed. But I persevered! Those ceramics are tough! At one point I used jewelers pliers (thick plastic covers the gripping area) to remove the ceramic as it would not seat fully and was jammed on there pretty good. I did this about 4 times and voila! It seated on my next attempt without force.
I now have a consistent 2.3 ohm atomizer - flavor and vapor are awesome. I did forget to open the bell back up and run the wire along a thread - but so far it hasn't been an issue....if that changes I'll open it back up.
Adeline? The AGR tank works wonderful! Thanks for the heads up on those! I don't have to disassemble to adjust the juice feed and I haven't had any air control issues to need to fiddle with it.
I have what I need to rebuild coils (which looks like it will be a task as the area is so small) and I have the correct wick size en route
Any tips on wrapping coils for such a small space would be appreciated
Adeline? The AGR tank works wonderful! Thanks for the heads up on those! I don't have to disassemble to adjust the juice feed and I haven't had any air control issues to need to fiddle with it.
Any tips on wrapping coils for such a small space would be appreciated
Awesome! From my experience the tank works very well with the Killer.. How do you control the juice feed if you don't have to take the bottom part off?
I have two RBAs where the coil is seated in a ceramic cup. You can do one of two things:
1) Wrap your coil around your wick, stabilized with a paperclip or something similar (I use a stick pin or two). Use that stability to push your coils close enough together to fit within the cup.
2) Wrap your coil around something very thin (I use a tiny screwdriver.. others use a nail) and smush the coils close together. Then feed your wick through the coil.
I started using option 1. Once I acquired a tiny screwdriver, I've been using option 2. I find my coils are prettier, more even, and easy to wrap. It can be tricky to get your wick through it, but I haven't had a terribly difficult experience with it yet.
I'm holding the bottom of the screw-on bottom - the one that actually attached to the tank and turning the top.
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