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After some months using the killer I went back to some cartomizers I had left and vapor and throat hit exceeds by much the killer, which no so long ago I thought it was superb, also flavor is more accentuated. And now with the almost constant leaking I think I will reserve my killer for when I am out of cartomizers. Also I used to build my killer at 1.4 ohms as some recommended for better vaping experience. My cartomizers are 3 ohms and perform much better. Maybe I haven't figured out the right way to build it, I find I don't have the patience to tinker for hours with it.
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I've been using the Killer 705 in my Zen2 Carto Tank. (Standard size tank 22mm) The Killer actually fits perfect in this device.
*Using the pre-made wick/coil(s) 2.0 ohms LR.
This seems to work the best, with no leaking.
I open the juice control to the halfway open position to fill the tank. (this allows airflow and prevents premature vapor lock)
*The very top of the Killer is tall enough to fit inside the actual top cap, which allows me to adjust the juice control with a turn of the top cap.
Once the tank is full (about 1/8' from the top), I turn the juice control to the simi closed position.
- I place the top cap with the o-rings sitting right on top of the tank to prevent leaking.
- I turn the device upside down and push the top cap in to force the juice up the Killer tube.
- With the device right side up, I then place 3-4 drops of juice in the top cap opening, and let the device sit for about 5 mins.
- I then place the drip tip on the device, to trap the air and vapor lock the device.
- I take a few pulls (while pressing the power button) to get the juice circulating.
If I stop vaping for a while and let the device settle, I will have restart the juice to circulating.
If that happens, I can do one of two things.
*(do not take the top cap off for this)
- 1. I take the drip tip off and blow down the the top cap hole (to release the vapor lock), and turn the device upside down, then right side up. (this forces the juice up the Killer tube)
I then put the drip tip back on and take a couple of pulls. This can also be done without taking the drip tip off ( if the device has not fully settled)
or
- 2. I twist the top cap to open the juice control just a little bit, and take a few pulls. Once I hear a gurgle, I then twist the top cap to put the juice control back in the simi closed position.
and vape on.
*Using the pre-made wick/coil(s) 2.0 ohms LR.
This seems to work the best, with no leaking.
I open the juice control to the halfway open position to fill the tank. (this allows airflow and prevents premature vapor lock)
*The very top of the Killer is tall enough to fit inside the actual top cap, which allows me to adjust the juice control with a turn of the top cap.
Once the tank is full (about 1/8' from the top), I turn the juice control to the simi closed position.
- I place the top cap with the o-rings sitting right on top of the tank to prevent leaking.
- I turn the device upside down and push the top cap in to force the juice up the Killer tube.
- With the device right side up, I then place 3-4 drops of juice in the top cap opening, and let the device sit for about 5 mins.
- I then place the drip tip on the device, to trap the air and vapor lock the device.
- I take a few pulls (while pressing the power button) to get the juice circulating.
If I stop vaping for a while and let the device settle, I will have restart the juice to circulating.
If that happens, I can do one of two things.
*(do not take the top cap off for this)
- 1. I take the drip tip off and blow down the the top cap hole (to release the vapor lock), and turn the device upside down, then right side up. (this forces the juice up the Killer tube)
I then put the drip tip back on and take a couple of pulls. This can also be done without taking the drip tip off ( if the device has not fully settled)
or
- 2. I twist the top cap to open the juice control just a little bit, and take a few pulls. Once I hear a gurgle, I then twist the top cap to put the juice control back in the simi closed position.
and vape on.
Hi, I have not tried no-resistance wire with the K-705; but have heard good things about using it with the k-705.
One of the benefits of NR-R is that the atty won't heat up as much, which will reduce the baking of juice if you like to chain vape.
pre made resistance - no resistance wires
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Thanks for the link, I was looking for something like that as I don't have a welder. I hope the length is right for the killer because the ceramic cup is so tiny and it may not fit, some of the reviewers mentioned it was great for the Ithaka.
That's even better and they have options for length and ohms, will definitely try them.
I'm getting a bad case of poor wicking. I've tried sealing off the air holes and pulling. Not getting any bubbles now. I rebuilt the coil to try and solve something and no luck. Tried juice control mostly closed and all the way open. Any other suggestions?
Update ... here are some pre-made, also I have ordered and used one in my K-705.
"Pre-Made Coils With Non-Resistance Leads" 1.5 ohms ( 0.8ohm - 3.0ohm are available )
AvidVapers -
i lost my 510 extention for my killer.. i know, i know. anyone know where to get killer 705 parts? im betting im screwed 
i lost my 510 extention for my killer.. i know, i know. anyone know where to get killer 705 parts? im betting im screwed
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Let us mention the reasons why the Killer can bring us burnt.
1. Not properly set liquid feed. Many times half closed holes fed better than too light.
2. The wick blocked juice feeding holes the holes.
3. Very tight winding wire wick.
4. Tighten wires through the holes of the ceramic. So strangled the wick between wire and U of ceramic. Gently pull of the wires.
5. Ceramic not pushed enough all the way down. This creates a great distance. Place the base (battery connector) on the table and push the ceramic as a pin .
Hope these tips helps. Is a free translate from LEO's thread .
1. Not properly set liquid feed. Many times half closed holes fed better than too light.
2. The wick blocked juice feeding holes the holes.
3. Very tight winding wire wick.
4. Tighten wires through the holes of the ceramic. So strangled the wick between wire and U of ceramic. Gently pull of the wires.
5. Ceramic not pushed enough all the way down. This creates a great distance. Place the base (battery connector) on the table and push the ceramic as a pin .
Hope these tips helps. Is a free translate from LEO's thread .
Im coming to the party very late. I just bought and received one of these and its working GREAT! For my high VG juices I have the feed hole opened about a dimes width and no burning or dry hits at all. Im loving this thing.
Way to revive an old thread of a classic rebuildable submersible atomizer zapped. I haven't used mine in a while; I've actually been considering selling it these past few days...
Personally I like the killer better than the diver v1 - I haven't tried the Sophia as my husband picked up another killer in the classies for me
The killer in my Ibtanked has a pressure issue when changing altitudes though - only time it leaks - does anyone know for sure the killer fits right in the slim pro tank?
The killer in my Ibtanked has a pressure issue when changing altitudes though - only time it leaks - does anyone know for sure the killer fits right in the slim pro tank?
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