I agree with what you said but with the Phiniac tanks the inner orings are so tight that you can't turn the juice control, at least I can't, that's why I leave it open before I snap the caps together. I haven't had any problems doing it this way. Maybe other tanks don't have such tight orings.
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I agree with what you said but with the Phiniac tanks the inner orings are so tight that you can't turn the juice control, at least I can't, that's why I leave it open before I snap the caps together. I haven't had any problems doing it this way. Maybe other tanks don't have such tight orings.
Are you talking about the (inner) o-rings that seal the carto or the (outer) o-rings that seal the tank to the end caps? I believe having the tight o-rings holding the carto is a good thing, but I do see where the o-rings holding the tank to the end caps may cause an issue. Try putting a little bit of juice on the outer o-rings before you seal it. That may help you in adjusting the juice control.
I would think that it's the inner orings since that is the one touching the adapter. Yes, I have lubed the orings. It didn't help but then I don't have a very strong grip since I can only use a thumb and a finger to turn the adapter with.
I didn't know these phiniac tanks were made so tight.
Well at least you wouldn't have to worry about leaking from the tank hahaha
Be sure to push the positive pin (I use a paper clip) up into the base of the killer after you set the juice control and before you screw it to your mod, it will kinda lock it in place so it doesn't get a chance to screw itself closed when tightening it to your mod.
Schlim66
Got the Killer in my XL Prive. The Prive is actually working perfect with the Killer. The top cap spins freely and the fill screw acts as a grip for easy juice control. You just have to remember to loosen the tank from the mod first. To get it feeding initially, just put your finger and thumb over the Prive intake holes (easy on a provari).
I am currently running organic cotton flat braid wick from amazon and 30 gauge A1 Kanthal /w .999 silver legs. I don't loop the wick around the ceramic post, I cut the loop and have 4 ends going almost to the connection. The bottom wick is in the ceramic slot and the top wick is above the slot so my coil sits above the cup. Hits great but still trying to figure out the juice control. I had it almost closed and started to get dry hits so now I have it showing a little less than half the hole open. Working a lot better. We'll see....
Here is the cotton wick I use, fits perfectly in the ceramic slot. I had some left over from when I use to rebuild Vivi Nova tanks. I have been playing with silica all day and haven't been happy. I pulled this stuff out and it made a ton of difference
http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Square...428&sr=8-1&keywords=organic+cotton+braid+wick
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Just ordered my Killer today. I'm looking forward to using my tanks again. They've been gathering dust because I just can't use cartos any longer.
What drip tip is that?
Schlim66
Schlim66
Got the Killer in my XL Prive. The Prive is actually working perfect with the Killer. The top cap spins freely and the fill screw acts as a grip for easy juice control. You just have to remember to loosen the tank from the mod first. To get it feeding initially, just put your finger and thumb over the Prive intake holes (easy on a provari).
I am currently running organic cotton flat braid wick from amazon and 30 gauge A1 Kanthal /w .999 silver legs. I don't loop the wick around the ceramic post, I cut the loop and have 4 ends going almost to the connection. The bottom wick is in the ceramic slot and the top wick is above the slot so my coil sits above the cup. Hits great but still trying to figure out the juice control. I had it almost closed and started to get dry hits so now I have it showing a little less than half the hole open. Working a lot better. We'll see....
Here is the cotton wick I use, fits perfectly in the ceramic slot. I had some left over from when I use to rebuild Vivi Nova tanks. I have been playing with silica all day and haven't been happy. I pulled this stuff out and it made a ton of difference
Amazon.com: Cotton Square Braid Candle Wick - #1/0: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
Here is my setup. 30 gauge, 4 wraps @ 1.2 ohms running on the provari at 4.2 volts. Hitting and wicking excellent. I boiled the cotton wick several times and it's giving me great flavor. Only problem is, I am at the amp limit on the provari mini at 3.5amps so my battery life will suck using a 18350
Ok, 'splain this to me. I am really trying to understand this Killer and get it to work inside a tank.
1) I took it out of the AGR and cleaned it all up. I attached it to a device. With & without the bottom 510 connection that is the ejuice flow control. Without the connector it produces average vapor. With the connector on it produces monster clouds. When I open a gap between the connector and the Killer, simulating opening the juice flow inside a tank, it breaks the connection and nothing.
a) why would the Killer work great with the connection on and not so hot without the connection?
b) If the electrical connection is broken with the gap, why wouldn't the same happen inside a tank as it it does outside?
1) I took it out of the AGR and cleaned it all up. I attached it to a device. With & without the bottom 510 connection that is the ejuice flow control. Without the connector it produces average vapor. With the connector on it produces monster clouds. When I open a gap between the connector and the Killer, simulating opening the juice flow inside a tank, it breaks the connection and nothing.
a) why would the Killer work great with the connection on and not so hot without the connection?
b) If the electrical connection is broken with the gap, why wouldn't the same happen inside a tank as it it does outside?
OK, I think I understand a little more. The center of the 510 connector. The center pin is a floater. As you turn the bottom of the tank and spin the connector the tension between the device and the killer stays constant as the bottom of the tank is just screwing the outside of the connector up and down over the center pin, thereby keeping the electrical connection. Outside of the tank I am not moving the connector up & down over the center pin, but unscrewing the killer out of the connector.
Still doesn't explain better vapor production with the connector as opposed to without the connector.
Still doesn't explain better vapor production with the connector as opposed to without the connector.
With the connector all the air intake is being concentrated though the spike in the ceramic cup, without the connector you're drawing air through the juice control which is flowing everywhere it shouldn't and a little around the coil.
This is what I'm not understanding.
You fill it from the bottom (with the juice control open), but when you turn it upside down again once screwed, the juice will just goes back into the holes.
Totally confused.
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I'll try to explain...with the tank upside down and the adapter and bottom cap off I fill the tank then screw the adapter and bottom cap on just enough so both the juice control holes are exposed but still can make a connection then snap the caps in place. Blow out any excess juice, screw it on my mod and I'm done. I use high VG juice so I don't get any flooding. If you use high PG juice then screw the adapter and cap down more so less juice holes are exposed then snap the cap back on.
I want to stress that I only do it this way because the Phiniac orings are so tight that I can't adjust the juice control the recommended way.
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