Just got one of these, and I really like it but am having a problem. I can't seem to adjust the juice control. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but when i try and open or close the juice feed, I either unscrew the tank from the MOD, or unscrew from the 510 extender thing, or the whole assembly just spins in the tank. Is there an easy way to independently adjust the juice feed control? Using the stock tank for now, and it's super slidey like all Smok DCTs are
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That, in addition to a wobbly tank with the flow open, is the reason the AGR is the only tank I use this thing in.
The killer 705 feeds from between the 510-510 extension, so to open the juice control you unscrew the main part of the killer from the 510 extension. With the Clone, I believe it is designed to feed from the area where the top of the "bulb" unscrews from the bottom of the bulb. I tried using it like the real killer is supposed to be used and it didn't feed liquid at all, I even unscrewed it to the point where it no longer made a connection and wouldn't fire. This seems to add a little more opportunity for it to be difficult to adjusted (the juice control) without something else getting unscrewed, unless you use something like the AGR.
With the stock tank I was still able to adjust without unscrewing anything else because I very tightly screwed down the 510 extension against the base of the bulb. Then I screwed it down tightly on a PV, THEN reassembled the tank. This way the 510 extension is tightly secured to the PV's connection and the base of the bulb. The juice control then becomes the easier thing to unscrew and screw down, so only it moves and there are no issues accidentally unscrewing the tank or anything else.
The downside is that it becomes more difficult to swap the tank from device to device, and there is still the wobbly tank issue.
this is the problem i am anticipating but being overly optimistic that it wont happen to me. it has been reported that a locking tank, like the AGR will remedy this situation. and as a bonus, youll be able to fill from teh top. and as a non-bonus, the tank will not be glass. yay. not like the stock tank is glass anyway, but many of us are hoping we can use this atty with our glass carto tanks. kind of a catch 22.
Nope. It feeds the same way as the Killer - between the 510 connector and extension. Just got mine set up about 5 minutes ago and it's feeding like a champ! Even keeps up with chain vaping.
So far, the flavor is stupendous! No gurgling and no dry hits. I'm liking the Terminator.
This is with the stock coil and wick, which I'm guessing is around 1.8-2.0 ohms (nothing to measure with here at work).
So far, the best way I can tell to fill this thing is to remove the 510 adapter and pull the atty down into the tank.
I'll be messing with it more tonight and trying a couple different carto tanks - I'll post up my results tomorrow!
I've about had it with this. I was getting a gross almost burned taste from the stock coil, even after figuring out the juice feed (thanks guys). So I'm trying to take it apart to rebuild it, and I can't get the ceramic cup off the positive pin. I should have expected this, Smok has never made a good rebuildable except for the RSST. Grrrr
Nope. It feeds the same way as the Killer - between the 510 connector and extension. Just got mine set up about 5 minutes ago and it's feeding like a champ! Even keeps up with chain vaping.
So far, the flavor is stupendous! No gurgling and no dry hits. I'm liking the Terminator.
This is with the stock coil and wick, which I'm guessing is around 1.8-2.0 ohms (nothing to measure with here at work).
So far, the best way I can tell to fill this thing is to remove the 510 adapter and pull the atty down into the tank.
I'll be messing with it more tonight and trying a couple different carto tanks - I'll post up my results tomorrow!
Huh, interesting. I wonder if there is something "off" with mine, a hole that didn't get drilled or something. It wouldn't be surprising being a low end Chinese clone, nor would it be the first time I've seen vape gear with missing holes, or missing machining.
I'll have to fiddle with mine and see if I can get it to feed from the bottom instead of the middle of the bulb part.
Your gonna need some pliers to pull the center pin off. One thing to take note is, when your put the center pin back in, you don't need it to be pushed all the way in, just enough to make sure the positive wire is pinned in securely. Once 510 bottom cap is screwed on, it will hold the pin down. I made the mistake of trying to force the pin in all the way and it snapped in 2. I ended up having to use my spare cup from my ebaron dripper.
So aside from Greek and UK suppliers, does anyone know a vendor in the US that carries the eBaron/Killer ceramic cups/coils? I'd like to have few spares on hand, to pre-setup coils for quicker changeouts...
Those ceramic cups are for the Ody clone. For this Terminator Tank you need the ceramics from an CE2.
OK, after fiddling with this last night for awhile (I did not rebuild the coil yet) I've decided the Terminator is just too fiddly for my tastes.
- Sometimes gurgly and leaky
- Hard to get the juice control to work without unscrewing from your mod or unscrewing the bulb
- Relatively difficult to fill
I may fiddle with it some more, but as of now I think I'm done.
- Sometimes gurgly and leaky
- Hard to get the juice control to work without unscrewing from your mod or unscrewing the bulb
- Relatively difficult to fill
I may fiddle with it some more, but as of now I think I'm done.
ok so i got mine last night....i didn' thave time to really examine it, anyone with experience correct my assumptions:
I need that bottom 510 connection? I had thought i could take it off because this thing is loooong but i need it?
to reach the coil, i need plyers to pull off the piece that screws onto the 510 connection?
i'm going to clean out my phiniac tonight put this to work but i'm interested in being able to build my own coils and just by playing with it a bit last night i couldn't access the coil and cup
I need that bottom 510 connection? I had thought i could take it off because this thing is loooong but i need it?
to reach the coil, i need plyers to pull off the piece that screws onto the 510 connection?
i'm going to clean out my phiniac tonight put this to work but i'm interested in being able to build my own coils and just by playing with it a bit last night i couldn't access the coil and cup
how about a drunker ceramic? madvapes has em. i was thinking of gettign one to see if it fit...does anyone know for sure?
I figured out why mine wouldn't feed how it was supposed to. There are the two little holes in the base of the bulb part, there is the rubber insulator in there for the positive post, and for some reason the rubber insulator was almost completely blocking the holes. Now it makes sense why it wouldn't feed at all the way it was supposed to. I used a thumb tack to poke around at the insulator until there was a fairly open pathway for the juice. Now it feeds great from the bottom, where it's supposed to, and the wobbly action is a bit better, but still more wobbly than I'd like.
I like the idea of this device, but after a little time the fact that you need NR wire for best results, and the wobbling issue, I'm really hoping for a diver clone instead.
I like the idea of this device, but after a little time the fact that you need NR wire for best results, and the wobbling issue, I'm really hoping for a diver clone instead.
I don't think the drunker ceramic would work, since it's just the top part of a CE2 ceramic, and you need the bottom part of it to secure the positive pin in.
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This sounding like the the real Killer thread. Why I decided to wait for something else later days. On another note, i admire the people who make things work the way they are supposed to because its self advocating and taking responsibility!
You need NR for best results with the Diver also. Same basic setup.
Very true, but filling should be much easier, there is zero adjustments that have to be made, there shouldn't be any wobbling issues since nothing is sitting a quarter way unscrewed, and it's much smaller. And while NR would give the best results, I'm thinking that the diver would be better even with a non-NR build, since the diameter is smaller where the negative connection is made, there is less free floating wire to make the connection.
It's not that any individual aspect of the killer or the clone is a deal breaker, but it's just got a lot of little issues that add up to it being a hassle to use. I still like it, but it's not one of my main devices that I use. Hopefully the diver would completely replace cartos in tanks, as the killer clone just doesn't do it well enough for me.
I wanted to take the ceramic cup out of my terminator to get a better look at it and tried pulling the cup out by hand. I couldn't so I used tweezers to pull the cup out, well doing so broke off a small piece off the bottom of my ceramic cup.
Now my next experience might be affected by my broken piece but when I tried putting the cup back on I couldn't get it to seat all the way down the pin. I eventually figured out to turn the cup a little and it would seat, then when it was seated I turned it again until the wire was even with the slot so I could lay it on the threads. Now when I take it off I turn the cup a little and I am able to lift it off the pin.
Like I said before I do not know if it was because I broke a small piece off of the bottom but 3/4 of the bottom is still intact and of course my terminator still works so I am happy about that.
I just got my clone. I like it so far. It's not nearly as wobbly as I thought it would be. Pretty secure, actually. No leaking. I wanted to try out the pre-installed coil and its pretty dang good. I'm getting fresh clean tasting draws. Great TH too.
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