My Killer and Terminator are working very well in 22mm XL OCD tanks. They are pretty big, but at least they hold lots of juice and I think pair better on 22mm PVs.
I've posted a bunch on this, so hopefully people aren't getting tired of it, but I find the quality of the Killer to be much better than that of the Terminator. I had to sand the center pin to avoid breaking the ceramics when replacing them. It really bugs me how wobbly my Terminator is. I cut off about 7mm because I think that it is needlessly too long.
That being said, my Terminator has been working flawlessly and the vape has been great - definitely on par with the Killer in my opinion. I've had no leaks and no dry hits. I can't say the same for my Killer - I had a leak earlier tonight. I'm not yet ready to put my Killer up on the Classifieds, but for the price to performance ratio, I think that the Terminator is a great deal and I think that everyone should try one if they don't own a submersible rebuildable atomizer. It really blows my mind how cheap they are considering how long they can last if you rebuild your own coils.
For me, the Diver is the best in class. It doesn't have a juice control like the Killer and Terminator have, so you can't close the juice hole, drip in a new juice, vape it dry, and and then go back to the juice in the tank, but I don't do that anyways. I like that I can put it in a small tank, finish the juice, and then put in something new. Try doing that with a cartomizer.
I have a Killer, three Divers, and a Terminator. I don't really feel the need to buy another tank atomizer like these since I can change juices so easily, but if I wanted to buy another one, I would get another Diver. At the end of the day, I think that the quality of the vape is the same on all of these (particularly since I build all of the wick and coils the same), bit I find the Diver to be less hassle and I have more complaints with the others.
I finally dug my digital calipers out of my storage unit, and got a chance to take some accurate measurements from the tube and caps on the X8 carto tank. I had posted somewhere previously (don't remember if it was this thread, or another Terminator thread...) about possibly making longer tubes for the X8 from glass or polycarbonate tube, so here we go...
The tube for the X8 has an OD of 20.8mm, with a wall thickness of 1mm, giving an ID of 18.8mm.
With the right o-rings, you could theoretically use glass tubing up to 19.0mm ID.
IBTanked makes custom tubes that are 22.0mm OD with 1.5mm walls, giving a 19.0mm ID, which SHOULD work on the X8, but at $11 a tube, it doesn't make much sense to spend almost as much on the glass tube than you'd spend on a complete X8. Don't get me wrong--I'll probably order one just to see how it works, and when you figure in the labor and skill it takes to make glass tubes, that price is certainly reasonable, but I don't think many people will want to put an $11 tube on a $14 tank...
19mm is about 0.75". I can't find any polycarbonate tubing that is that size, but I'm still looking. US Plastic Corp. has polycarbonaate tubing with ID of 1/2, 5/8 and 7/8" but none listed for 3/4" ID...
Professional Plastics makes a Polycarbonate tube that is 0.75" ID and 0.875" OD, in 8 foot sections, for about $30, but with shipping, it's looking like it would be around $40-45 per tube. Now, if its cut optimally, and figuring on a 1.25" long tube, we're looking at 70-75 tank tubes per piece, giving a material cost (labor not figured in) at about 60¢ each. Now, THAT seems much more reasonable.
I'll keep looking for sources for glass and poly tubing. Stay tuned...
I finally dug my digital calipers out of my storage unit, and got a chance to take some accurate measurements from the tube and caps on the X8 carto tank. I had posted somewhere previously (don't remember if it was this thread, or another Terminator thread...) about possibly making longer tubes for the X8 from glass or polycarbonate tube, so here we go...
The tube for the X8 has an OD of 20.8mm, with a wall thickness of 1mm, giving an ID of 18.8mm.
With the right o-rings, you could theoretically use glass tubing up to 19.0mm ID.
IBTanked makes custom tubes that are 22.0mm OD with 1.5mm walls, giving a 19.0mm ID, which SHOULD work on the X8, but at $11 a tube, it doesn't make much sense to spend almost as much on the glass tube than you'd spend on a complete X8. Don't get me wrong--I'll probably order one just to see how it works, and when you figure in the labor and skill it takes to make glass tubes, that price is certainly reasonable, but I don't think many people will want to put an $11 tube on a $14 tank...
the remedy is to push the atomizer all the way down, so the 510 extender pops out more. this gives me the grip i need to dial in optimum juice flow. then i just push the atty back up and im in business.
i close the feed control from the top on my AGR 2, remove the tank fill screw and then the top cap, fill, replace the cap and screw, open feed control and vape away. no issues. i do find if i don't close the juice feed if it's going to be sitting unused for awhile it floods. anyone else find this?
yup. mine floods slightly if i leave it upright unvaped for a while. most of the time i dont mind and a dry pull remedys the situation. but if its getting too floody, i either close the juice control, or i place the atomizer horizontally. horizontal has been working for me although im thinking that could flood if it wanted to lol. this is on my 80/20 PG/VG juice. with the 70/30 it doesnt leak even while vertical unvaped for a period of time. also, the 70/30 juice is in the IBTanked tank with tighter orings. that shouldnt have an impact, but maybe its a factor. idk.
nelson- are you able to vape the tank dry with the AGR? in other words, does the jucie feed line up at the bottom of the tank? also, do you use the jucie control adapter with the AGR or do you just screw the atomizer directly into the locking portion of the AGR?