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GuyInAZ sir before that can be answered need to know a few things. Are you looking for a gen 1 or gen 2 batt, do you want a fat batt or cig style, and manual or auto?
Gen 1 batts are unregulated, meaning they start at around 4.2v and work their way down sir. Gen 2 are regulated around 3.6v. Fat batts are ego style batts. Auto batts are unsealed and dangerous if you're dripping, but provide better airflow. Manuals are sealed so it removes the danger of overfilling a carto.
You just made your search harder sir. If a fat batt with a kr808 threading is regulated it's at 3.2v just like an ego, not 3.6v...
Are you saying the IGO auto is dangerous? I don't drip, but do refill. I got my IGO last week and love it. It last me all day.
Morandir,
Another question. I have had 2 Diamond battery's that the carto got so hot it would have caused a fire if it had contact with paper. Both battery's were shot after that. Could this have been caused if my carto was too wet? I called V4 CS and they said this can happen if the battery is dropped. I have dropped several of them, but don't know which ones.
Another question. I have had 2 Diamond battery's that the carto got so hot it would have caused a fire if it had contact with paper. Both battery's were shot after that. Could this have been caused if my carto was too wet? I called V4 CS and they said this can happen if the battery is dropped. I have dropped several of them, but don't know which ones.
Ms. Patrisha that sounds like a switch stuck from juice in the batt. What refill method are you using? If you check out the v4l subforum have a thread over there showing just how little juice it can take to kill a king diamond batt. With any auto battery would never suggest the condom fill method (that method is a killer of manuals as well, but not going into that), better to use a syringe or the taryn spin method.
I was using the condom fill method for awhile, but went back to filling with an eye dropper. I can't seem to master using the syringe and just make a mess. V2 came out with their own juices in a really niffty bottle. The eye dropper is curved at the end, which makes it easy to keep the juice from the center when filling. Also the way they designed the dropper, you get every drop out of the bottle without having to pour into another bottle. After filling, I shake each carto 10 times with a snap to distribute the juice.
Ms. Patrisha still risk overfilling causing a leak using that method (same can be said of the taryn spin as well). Did you ever check out SnowDragon's sir video on syringe filling for help?
You've probably already purchased something by now, but I'll try to summarize just for the heck of it.
A. As someone else said, the older 1st generation design battery is unregulated and starts at 4.2 volts and after a little usage, goes down to its natural 3.7 voltage. It then stays at 3.7 volts until it approaches discharge. As it approaches discharge, the voltage goes down from 3.7, producing weak vaping, and shortly thereafter, the battery shuts itself off. So immediately after charging, it produces a stronger/hotter vape, but then tones down after a short period of time as the voltage decreases to 3.7 volts. You can get these just about anywhere. I haven't checked in a while, so I don't know who's got the best prices.
B. The 2nd generation design batteries are regulated so that they maintain a constant 3.7 voltage throughout the discharge cycle. With these, the strength/hottness of the vape is constant from the time it's taken off the charger to when it's fully discharged. These don't give you more vape time per charge, just a more constant vape. These were pioneered by Bloog as the Maxx Fusion, but are now available from other sources. NHaler stocks these as "M.F. Style" batteries, but I'm sure there are other vendors. I believe Bloog currently has the best price on these.
C. Both of the above come in 3 lengths, 65mm, 78mm and 102mm, the longer having greater energy capacity. The 65mm length with a cartomizer attached is about the length of an extra long cigarette. I believe the energy capacities are roughly 180-200 mAh, 250-280 mAh, and 320-350 mAh, respectively. The actual capacity varies between manufacturer. I like the longer length since they run longer, but that's a personal preference. Cigeasy sells the "Elite" model which has a capacity of 380 mAh. I haven't tried one so can't attest to it, but it might be a good compromise between a standard and a "fat batt".
D. The "fat batts" are higher energy capacity batteries. Many can run all day without recharging, but their diameter is much greater (~14mm or more) than a "standard battery" which has a diameter of 9mm, so they don't look like a cigarette. Also, unless they come with a 'cone', they can look funny with a standard cartomizer attached. Whether the diameter is a concern or not is obviously personal preference. NHaler sells the IGO which has a capacity of 1100mAh. I'm not sure whether its regulated or not, but from personal experience, I think it might be at least partially regulated. I'm sure there are models from other vendors, but I haven't researched it.
E. All of the above come in both automatic and manual switch versions. The automatics have some sort of pressure or airflow switch to detect when you're drawing and turns the battery on automatically. Earlier automatic versions were "finicky", but many of the kinks have been worked out in newer versions. Particularly, they turn on and off faster, and aren't prone to being accidentally activated by loud noises or wind. The automatics are certainly more convenient, but the downside is that they are more easily destroyed if e-liquid gets inside the battery. This happens if a cartomizer is overfilled or if you drip too zealously. I'm not that careful when filling cartomizers, so I only buy manual batteries, but clearly the choice is personal preference.
Bottom line: I think it's Fat Batt and Manual. Second generation is probably better, but it might be difficult to get conclusive information on that.
A. As someone else said, the older 1st generation design battery is unregulated and starts at 4.2 volts and after a little usage, goes down to its natural 3.7 voltage. It then stays at 3.7 volts until it approaches discharge. As it approaches discharge, the voltage goes down from 3.7, producing weak vaping, and shortly thereafter, the battery shuts itself off. So immediately after charging, it produces a stronger/hotter vape, but then tones down after a short period of time as the voltage decreases to 3.7 volts. You can get these just about anywhere. I haven't checked in a while, so I don't know who's got the best prices.
B. The 2nd generation design batteries are regulated so that they maintain a constant 3.7 voltage throughout the discharge cycle. With these, the strength/hottness of the vape is constant from the time it's taken off the charger to when it's fully discharged. These don't give you more vape time per charge, just a more constant vape. These were pioneered by Bloog as the Maxx Fusion, but are now available from other sources. NHaler stocks these as "M.F. Style" batteries, but I'm sure there are other vendors. I believe Bloog currently has the best price on these.
C. Both of the above come in 3 lengths, 65mm, 78mm and 102mm, the longer having greater energy capacity. The 65mm length with a cartomizer attached is about the length of an extra long cigarette. I believe the energy capacities are roughly 180-200 mAh, 250-280 mAh, and 320-350 mAh, respectively. The actual capacity varies between manufacturer. I like the longer length since they run longer, but that's a personal preference. Cigeasy sells the "Elite" model which has a capacity of 380 mAh. I haven't tried one so can't attest to it, but it might be a good compromise between a standard and a "fat batt".
D. The "fat batts" are higher energy capacity batteries. Many can run all day without recharging, but their diameter is much greater (~14mm or more) than a "standard battery" which has a diameter of 9mm, so they don't look like a cigarette. Also, unless they come with a 'cone', they can look funny with a standard cartomizer attached. Whether the diameter is a concern or not is obviously personal preference. NHaler sells the IGO which has a capacity of 1100mAh. I'm not sure whether its regulated or not, but from personal experience, I think it might be at least partially regulated. I'm sure there are models from other vendors, but I haven't researched it.
E. All of the above come in both automatic and manual switch versions. The automatics have some sort of pressure or airflow switch to detect when you're drawing and turns the battery on automatically. Earlier automatic versions were "finicky", but many of the kinks have been worked out in newer versions. Particularly, they turn on and off faster, and aren't prone to being accidentally activated by loud noises or wind. The automatics are certainly more convenient, but the downside is that they are more easily destroyed if e-liquid gets inside the battery. This happens if a cartomizer is overfilled or if you drip too zealously. I'm not that careful when filling cartomizers, so I only buy manual batteries, but clearly the choice is personal preference.
Bottom line: I think it's Fat Batt and Manual. Second generation is probably better, but it might be difficult to get conclusive information on that.
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AteOhAter (sir or Ms?) depends on the gen 1 kr808 on how long it stays above 3.85v. Not all are created equal. Gen 2's average 3.63v in the dozens I've tested, not 3.7v...
Morandir: Based on your posts I know you've done a lot more testing than I have, so I graciously bow to your expertise in this area
BTW, were you ever able to fully determine whether the IGO battery is actually regulated or not? A few months back I think you were testing some of the fat batts. I may be mistaken, but I think at the time there was some uncertainty whether the IGO was regulated or not.
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Was the VGO AteOhAter. Found out it depends on who manufactures it on whether it's regulated or not. First one I owned was a simply an ego with a kr808 connection, latest one ordered was unregulated.
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