Let's talk hardware

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Schnarph

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I believe the T+ comes stock with a 1.0mm.
I believe that's correct. That's why I went with 1.5mm (1/16th). Double the size would probably be too airy for me, and there's no going back once the hole is drilled. I got lucky, 1.5mm works really well for me.
 

XfooYen

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X, I know y'all have posted this numerous times, but what do you drill your T+ out to?

I drill mine out to 1/16 too. At first, I felt it was too airy, but in gennies, I like the extra air to cool the vape and reduce TH. If 1/16 (1.58mm) is a tad too large, you can get a #53 (1.51mm) bit or a #54 (1.39mm). There's always options.

You can, in fact repair a hole drilled too large. Just clean the cap and fill the hole flush with JB Weld high heat resistant epoxy putty and let it cure for a full day. You can drill a new hole after its fully cured.
 

Bronze

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I drill mine out to 1/16 too. At first, I felt it was too airy, but in gennies, I like the extra air to cool the vape and reduce TH. If 1/16 (1.58mm) is a tad too large, you can get a #53 (1.51mm) bit or a #54 (1.39mm). There's always options.

You can, in fact repair a hole drilled too large. Just clean the cap and fill the hole flush with JB Weld high heat resistant epoxy putty and let it cure for a full day. You can drill a new hole after its fully cured.

I've used plenty of JB Weld. :)

Thanks X.
 

Chakris

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I was having terrible issues with my AGA T+, the threads from the center tube wouldn't catch with the top piece. I was about to sand down my glass tank tubes, when somebody told me to try taking out the center metal tube that connect the top to the bottom. Sure enough, it has more threads on one end than the other. If you run into this issue, take out the center metal tube and reverse it. It saved the day for me.

I got my RichMan's RBA in yesterday, it's a real beauty. I found out it's not made in USA, but it would have been out of my price range if it was. Oh well, it's still really nice. The flat SS look is interesting but doesn't quite match my run of the mill polished mods/APV's. As is, it looks as good as anything ever will on my copper pipe mod. I can't decide if I should hit it with a wire brush wheel on my bench grinder yet, all my driptips look out of place on it. There's no turning back from a move like that, although I could polish it with a felt wheel, and who doesn't like shiny objects?

Either way, I'll get some pics of it on this thread over the weekend. My AGAT's are jealous already. :)

Can't wait to see the pics. :) I had a similar problem with the AGA-T2, when I took it apart and put it back together I noticed that the center tube ends are not milled exactly the same and it took a couple trail and error attempts to figure which end goes up and which down. If asked now, I couldn't tell you off hand I'd have to open one up and look at it. :blink:

Hoosier vapes? I have one being delivered tomorrow too :)

Any of you guys/gals have any experience with an Amp tank? Just traded for one in the classies today. I'm looking forward to throwing one of my hh357s that have been neglected lately in there

AGA-T2, I got mine from Hoosier yes.

The Amp Tank, I heard about them and thought they would be really cool, because I don't care for cartomizer tanks too much and dripping all the time takes up a lot of time. However, Vapage,com had a sale on the Vmod XL and I went that way instead. No regrets either. I am going to try my HH.357 again on the Vmod and see how it goes since I've pretty much have squonking down pat now.

Have you seen the PBusardo review on these? It's a bit long, but is good to watch, because of the learning curve to vaping with them is a bit steep. Even though he kinda hates it in the beginning - he ends up liking the AMP Tank with the HH.357 instead of the original atty that comes with it.

 

Chakris

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X, I know y'all have posted this numerous times, but what do you drill your T+ out to?

Bronze, I'd wouldn't rush drill it out till you've had a chance to see how it draws all set up first. I'm rather regretting I drilled both mine out beforehand - feel they are way too airy for me. Check it out first, if it's too tight you can go with the options Xfoo outlined after.

I believe Dusty was saying the same thing not too long ago.
 

Bronze

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Whoa fellas! Let me back up. I didn't ask my question right about opening the hole. I wasn't referring to the air hole. I was referring to the wick hole. My understanding is many people will widen the hole where the mesh wick goes. According to my micrometer, it is a .100-inch hole (2.5mm). What do you guys open this up to (if any)? I vape 70/30 so I should have less wicking problems than the VG vapers.
 

XfooYen

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Whoa fellas! Let me back up. I didn't ask my question right about opening the hole. I wasn't referring to the air hole. I was referring to the wick hole. My understanding is many people will widen the hole where the mesh wick goes. According to my micrometer, it is a .100-inch hole (2.5mm). What do you guys open this up to (if any)? I vape 70/30 so I should have less wicking problems than the VG vapers.

Oh. On the AGA-T, I opened the wick hole with a 7/64 bit, which is 2.77mm. Some people have opened it to 1/8, but that's too big for me. I like cable wicks and the 7/64 opening accepts the 3/32 cable wick with just the right amount of play around the edge.
 

Dusty_D

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Whoa fellas! Let me back up. I didn't ask my question right about opening the hole. I wasn't referring to the air hole. I was referring to the wick hole. My understanding is many people will widen the hole where the mesh wick goes. According to my micrometer, it is a .100-inch hole (2.5mm). What do you guys open this up to (if any)? I vape 70/30 so I should have less wicking problems than the VG vapers.

Well, why didn't you say so to begin with? :D

I did not touch the stock wick hole, but I did take off the second post with a pair of pliers, and expanded that hole to 1/8". It gave me the capability to use it for a U-Wick configuration and retain the original fill hole as it was built.
 

Bronze

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First Genny AGA-T+ Attempt as Follows:

400 mesh SS oxidized using torch (Busardo method)
Used 32 ga Kanthal because that's all I have.
4 wraps.
First coil glowed only on the first half-wrap. Attempted to mess with the coil spacing.
Burned the wire.
Wrapped again using a new piece of 32 ga.
Messed with the coils and got a nice glow all around.
1.8 ohms
Vapor production = 3/10 (1 worst, 10 best) on Provari.
My Phoenix RBA's are far superior at this point.

I've had enough AGA-T+ rebuilding for one day. I think I need to get some 28ga. Agree? I think 1.8 ohms is too high and takes too long to glow. Better ohm range???
 

Schnarph

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I'm liking 30 gauge myself with 5 wraps, but 1.7 or 1.8ohms has never been a problem for me. I could see using 28g for a dual coil setup. I do like my Phoenix style RDA's down at 1.3-1.4, but that's using silica or hemp and it's completely different. I'm running my Protank at 1.5ohms with 30gauge and it's fantastic.

I didn't drill out my wick hole, the stock is working fine for me. YMMV, etc, etc.
 

Chakris

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Whoa fellas! Let me back up. I didn't ask my question right about opening the hole. I wasn't referring to the air hole. I was referring to the wick hole. My understanding is many people will widen the hole where the mesh wick goes. According to my micrometer, it is a .100-inch hole (2.5mm). What do you guys open this up to (if any)? I vape 70/30 so I should have less wicking problems than the VG vapers.

I bored my wick hole out to 1/8th on both and use 3/16th cable on one with a silica sleeve and 1.9ohm coil using .5mm ribbon wire (5/4 wrap).
I find vapor production quite a bit lower than a lot of my other gear too. However, it seems to get better the more it warms up.
To much info? :D
 
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XfooYen

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First Genny AGA-T+ Attempt as Follows:

400 mesh SS oxidized using torch (Busardo method)
Used 32 ga Kanthal because that's all I have.
4 wraps.
First coil glowed only on the first half-wrap. Attempted to mess with the coil spacing.
Burned the wire.
Wrapped again using a new piece of 32 ga.
Messed with the coils and got a nice glow all around.
1.8 ohms
Vapor production = 3/10 (1 worst, 10 best) on Provari.
My Phoenix RBA's are far superior at this point.

I've had enough AGA-T+ rebuilding for one day. I think I need to get some 28ga. Agree? I think 1.8 ohms is too high and takes too long to glow. Better ohm range???

At those resistances you'll want to crank the voltage up. You can't get good vape on a genny if you're below 10 watts. At 1.8ohms try starting at 4.5 volts and work your way up. Don't forget to make sure you're getting juice to the coil. The coil needs to break in. It takes at least a full tank to get optimal vapor in those ranges. The only exception to this is sub ohm vaping.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*
 

Dusty_D

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At those resistances you'll want to crank the voltage up. You can't get good vape on a genny if you're below 10 watts. At 1.8ohms try starting at 4.5 volts and work your way up. Don't forget to make sure you're getting juice to the coil. The coil needs to break in. It takes at least a full tank to get optimal vapor in those ranges. The only exception to this is sub ohm vaping.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*

Did you just tell Bronze to vape at 10 Watts on a 1.8 ohm coil?! You do know that he normally vapes in the 5 Watt range, don't you?

This I am going to have to see.. :pop:
 

Chakris

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At those resistances you'll want to crank the voltage up. You can't get good vape on a genny if you're below 10 watts. At 1.8ohms try starting at 4.5 volts and work your way up. Don't forget to make sure you're getting juice to the coil. The coil needs to break in. It takes at least a full tank to get optimal vapor in those ranges. The only exception to this is sub ohm vaping.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*

That might be my problem as well. Vape and learn... ;)

That is gonna be something, eh Dusty? :pop:
 
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