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Just a reminder and I'm sure all the KFL people know this...but I was having a terrible time with one of mine, last night I cleaned, dry burn fresh wick and moments later...harsh burning hit. Just put it up for the night, this morning I drained, rewicked and again had the same problem...scratched my head a little....drained it again and looked it over good...the coil have moved down too far..was basically touching the deck. The coil itself is still running strong just needed a little adjustment.
BK I had just filled (but not overfilled) and yes I do presoak wicks. I think I just caused it to short itself...the same setup with coil slightly raised is going fine since.
Retic and I were discussing the "differences" in clone quality. The one main thing I have noticed is the "looseness" of the fit when installing an atty onto the mod.
Soooo I broke out the calipers and started measuring...
Vamo3 inside dia of the 510 thread area is .264"
SVD is .258
The measures on the fasttech ( Tobeco R91%) outside dia 510 threads are .2705
The RSST comes in at .2715
and the HCigar is .2725
That is 2 thou difference
since the threads are to close together to allow me to get a reading with my calipers on the grooves of the threads, I cant give a measure on the differences of thread to thread contact.
But... the R91C with the Vamo is like having a ball/socket joint till it bottoms out. Obviously the Vamo threads are opening up due to the brass construction. The R91C on the SVD is still wobbly untill seated.
The RSST on the Vamo is wobbly untill seated but not like the ball/socket looseness. Rsst going onto the SVD is almost locked into place during transition to seating.
And finally, the HC 3.1 on the vamo...still some wobble but markedly improved till seating takes place, then it is solid.
BUT! the HC 3.1 on the SVD is at best no wiggle at all, even down to the seating.
Looks like the SS construction of the SVD 510 threads and the SS construction of the HC3.1 threads are "tap" mated ....
Smooth is Kewl!
Soooo I broke out the calipers and started measuring...
Vamo3 inside dia of the 510 thread area is .264"
SVD is .258
The measures on the fasttech ( Tobeco R91%) outside dia 510 threads are .2705
The RSST comes in at .2715
and the HCigar is .2725
That is 2 thou difference
since the threads are to close together to allow me to get a reading with my calipers on the grooves of the threads, I cant give a measure on the differences of thread to thread contact.
But... the R91C with the Vamo is like having a ball/socket joint till it bottoms out. Obviously the Vamo threads are opening up due to the brass construction. The R91C on the SVD is still wobbly untill seated.
The RSST on the Vamo is wobbly untill seated but not like the ball/socket looseness. Rsst going onto the SVD is almost locked into place during transition to seating.
And finally, the HC 3.1 on the vamo...still some wobble but markedly improved till seating takes place, then it is solid.
BUT! the HC 3.1 on the SVD is at best no wiggle at all, even down to the seating.
Looks like the SS construction of the SVD 510 threads and the SS construction of the HC3.1 threads are "tap" mated ....
Smooth is Kewl!
Heard from FT.... not only are they shipping out fully SS replacement bits for the kfc center post, but when I mentioned that the fill valve broke, they are sending me a new base too.
Put in an order for a second kfc and a kick so I can set and forget on my k100... so they'll just threw it in with that.
Now, let's see how long THAT takes.
Put in an order for a second kfc and a kick so I can set and forget on my k100... so they'll just threw it in with that.
Now, let's see how long THAT takes.
Retic was asking about my SVD replacement. Status as of 1/31 said Dispatched to Overseas (US). Whatever that means. It was Singapore Post so i don't know if they let go of it once it goes to US or if it is sitting in a mailbag on the floor in the Singapore post office or what.
R
*RJ*
Guest
Heard from FT.... not only are they shipping out fully SS replacement bits for the kfc center post, but when I mentioned that the fill valve broke, they are sending me a new base too.
Put in an order for a second kfc and a kick so I can set and forget on my k100... so they'll just threw it in with that.
Now, let's see how long THAT takes.
I can't believe I didn't think of FT for my kick! I was looking at altsmoke and waiting on a coupon code. But $45 is just too much. Dammit...now I need to order a kick from FT.
I really really want one.
Near as I can tell from the looks of the kick they have on sale, it appears to be from Smok....
But it'll give me all I need.... up to 12w (I've been sitting around 11), and it has a low voltage cut off... For like $9.... beaut!
But it'll give me all I need.... up to 12w (I've been sitting around 11), and it has a low voltage cut off... For like $9.... beaut!
R
*RJ*
Guest
I think I'll get two...one for each K100.
Thanks for the FT reminder...and yes the price is awesome!
Kayfun Lite number 4 in the bag, thanks to a tip from a little yellow birdie.
Picked one up in the classies, seller from Toronto, waived shipping. $85. Deal!!
Picked one up in the classies, seller from Toronto, waived shipping. $85. Deal!!
Bronze my last order that went through Shanghai post said dispatched to overseas for two weeks before USPS tracking picked it up , you might want to check USPS tracking just in case , and yup I gave FT and Shanghai post some very creative words of encouragement , I suggested by email that Shanghai post invest in a searchlight so they can find their azzes in the dark .
R
*RJ*
Guest
So I just ordered two kicks from FT for $16.99!!! I mean wow.
I feel like that's the only thing I wanted and really needed. My vape box is now complete.
R
*RJ*
Guest
Well I also need some 18500's...so I'll wait on Valentine coupon codes and pick up some of those for my kicked K100.
Hey, I'm having some issues with my KFM and KFL wicking. I have to 'prime' it every so often (cover the air hole and suck through the tip) to get juice into the chamber. I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong since it's happening on both. I've tried lengthening the wick and that didn't help. Any suggestions?
What changed? Wick, juice, configuration? Something had to have changed for it to not be working..
My wicks barely touch the deck..they do not need to be longer to work better.
Take a few minutes and figure out what you changed from the configs that were working for you, and your answer will make itself known.
If all else fails, scrap that config and start over. 5/64 (2 mm) jig, mini-coil, single strand of cotton yarn and vape nirvana.
My wicks barely touch the deck..they do not need to be longer to work better.
Take a few minutes and figure out what you changed from the configs that were working for you, and your answer will make itself known.
If all else fails, scrap that config and start over. 5/64 (2 mm) jig, mini-coil, single strand of cotton yarn and vape nirvana.
For me the only time I prime it is in the beginning with a fresh battery.. What are your OHms at? I tore up a build yesterday that had too much cotton blocking the air channels I imagine and I was getting wicking issues..
Nothing changed. Same micro coil, tried wick that barely touched deck, then wick with a little extra. Same thing. I am vaping some 12mg, which isn't scratching the itch; so hitting more often in row. But even when I put it down for a few minutes I'm not seeing that bubble rise from the chamber.
1.8 ohm in the KFM, 2.0 ohm in the KFL.
1.8 ohm in the KFM, 2.0 ohm in the KFL.
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At those levels you shouldn't be dry.. On fresh builds try to manually wick yourself and after a tank it should be good on it's own.. My opinion though .. It's what works for me.
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