I have enough OC to last me a couple years, and I'm not giving up on the Rayon just yet. I do have around 499 feet of it or so to get it right.
Just like my old hockey coach used to say..."Keep running that play till you get it right!"
Let's Talk Hardware
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Just like my old hockey coach used to say..."Keep running that play till you get it right!"
Ok I got my A-mod ZNA Clone in today and while it is too early for a good review... there are some things I like and a few I don't care for... these are all personal preference items so they will mean little in the end.
The size of it is really nice... in 18490 mode, it's actually shorter than my Vision 1300mah eGo Spinner battery by almost 20mm. The weight of if also was a surprise... it weighs in at 155g which is only 22g lighter than my Vamo 30w but 33g heavier than the Vamo v5 ( all Vamo's are stainless ). It makes me wonder if A-Mod is making two versions, one aluminum and one SS since the vid I had seen said it was aluminum. One of the reviews on the website where I purchased it from does mention it being SS... if so this is a plus in my book despite the extra weight it brings. Only the atomizer sticks out of my shirt pocket so its less likely to flip out like the taller Vamo's, but the weight does make it less comfortable to carry there. Since I seldom even carry my eGo's in my shirt pocket for long... it isn't a big issue.
I need to make a lower ohm coil to test the unit to see what it's capable of. Right now, I've got a 1.6Ω that I tested with and I was able to go all the way up to 30w and got more power with each vape. I'd like to have an in-line volt meter to verify with, but I don't so... all I can do is go by what the vape feels and sounds like for the moment. The box itself... has both 30w and 12a printed on it and from what I'm seeing, I think it's correct... I'm testing with an AW 18490 1100mah battery which are capable of outputting up to 16a...
Some of the things I have an issue with at this time but suspect I'll get used to... The main one is that it goes to sleep and I have to press the button to wake it up before I can take another vape. Since I can also see that as a safety feature, I don't know that I can complain much, but right now it's a minor issue. The other thing, the up and down buttons are reversed for my way of thinking... the left one is up and the right one is down... just seems backwards to me. The OLED screen stays on for a whole minute after use... it dims at about 45 seconds then goes out at a minute. I think I'd prefer to see it dim at 10s and go out at about 15s... and also be adjustable so everyone could select what they'd prefer.
The screen is able to flip from left to right mode which is nice. It's also got a click 5 times to lock/unlock feature so it's pocket friendly and won't go off if locked. Another is that it has a stealth mode to turn off the screen completely if you want. It doesn't have a lock settings ( wattage output ) which would be a nice feature.
Last night... I did go ahead and order the 18650 tube for it. I doubt I need an 18650 during work with how I vape right now, but on extended outings I think it will be a nice option. Of course, if I drop my Ω by going dual coil... I'll like having the extra capacity that those batteries bring.
The size of it is really nice... in 18490 mode, it's actually shorter than my Vision 1300mah eGo Spinner battery by almost 20mm. The weight of if also was a surprise... it weighs in at 155g which is only 22g lighter than my Vamo 30w but 33g heavier than the Vamo v5 ( all Vamo's are stainless ). It makes me wonder if A-Mod is making two versions, one aluminum and one SS since the vid I had seen said it was aluminum. One of the reviews on the website where I purchased it from does mention it being SS... if so this is a plus in my book despite the extra weight it brings. Only the atomizer sticks out of my shirt pocket so its less likely to flip out like the taller Vamo's, but the weight does make it less comfortable to carry there. Since I seldom even carry my eGo's in my shirt pocket for long... it isn't a big issue.
I need to make a lower ohm coil to test the unit to see what it's capable of. Right now, I've got a 1.6Ω that I tested with and I was able to go all the way up to 30w and got more power with each vape. I'd like to have an in-line volt meter to verify with, but I don't so... all I can do is go by what the vape feels and sounds like for the moment. The box itself... has both 30w and 12a printed on it and from what I'm seeing, I think it's correct... I'm testing with an AW 18490 1100mah battery which are capable of outputting up to 16a...
Some of the things I have an issue with at this time but suspect I'll get used to... The main one is that it goes to sleep and I have to press the button to wake it up before I can take another vape. Since I can also see that as a safety feature, I don't know that I can complain much, but right now it's a minor issue. The other thing, the up and down buttons are reversed for my way of thinking... the left one is up and the right one is down... just seems backwards to me. The OLED screen stays on for a whole minute after use... it dims at about 45 seconds then goes out at a minute. I think I'd prefer to see it dim at 10s and go out at about 15s... and also be adjustable so everyone could select what they'd prefer.
The screen is able to flip from left to right mode which is nice. It's also got a click 5 times to lock/unlock feature so it's pocket friendly and won't go off if locked. Another is that it has a stealth mode to turn off the screen completely if you want. It doesn't have a lock settings ( wattage output ) which would be a nice feature.
Last night... I did go ahead and order the 18650 tube for it. I doubt I need an 18650 during work with how I vape right now, but on extended outings I think it will be a nice option. Of course, if I drop my Ω by going dual coil... I'll like having the extra capacity that those batteries bring.
Sounds like mostly minor things. Yes, you'll have to mess with dual coil and subohm.
Definitely just very minor stuff as far as I can see. Something I overlooked mentioning... is that compared to my Vamo's and eGo's... this is very stable either standing up or laying on it's side. I suspect with the 18650 tube that will change slightly when standing.
Right now... I really see little advantage in going dual or sub-ohm on a regulated mod if it can handle the output you ask of it. The 1.6Ω coil I tested the output capability with on my Magma already has plenty of vapor and the flavor is saturated pretty good already. Even my 2.2Ω Mini Protank with factory heads is kicking pretty good. I will certainly check them out again... but at what cost compared to the longevity of the battery is it still worth it.
ZNA 18500 version weighs in at 206 gms, in comparison.
Sounds like a nice clone device to have as a backup.
One of the features that vapers wanted was to be able to have a regulated, sub-ohm experience. That was part of the impetus behind the creation of the DNA. Most regulated mods at the time of the DNA introductions could handle only about a 1.0 ohm minimum. If I recall correctly, the DNAs will go down to 0.5. Like you, I am not a dual coil/subohm vaper. But I would consider getting a DNA for the same reason Dust got one. Some of them are just nice units plain and simple...even if I never went to subohm or 30 watts. It's kind of like having a 454 Hemi. Wont ever need it but kinda nice to have. That said, if I had a DNA, I would experiment with the capabilities it had so as not to leave any stones unturned..
My side of the discussion about this ( no need for an argument
) is that if you have the power and current you need, you can heat the coil fast enough and have high enough watts... then there is little need to sub-ohm which is inefficient as far as a battery life is concerned. The earlier regulated mods simply didn't have enough current ( amps ) output to do that. That was the main reasons and advantages that mech mods brought... they could handle high amp loads and reach higher wattages than the earlier regulated mods could hope for but they had to have sub-ohm coils in order to do it. I believe the mindset became that in order to get a lot of flavor/vapor... you had to sub-ohm... and that idea itself is in error, or perhaps it's better to say it's not the whole story.
Yup!! Experiments are good. I learned today of somebody very happily running dual coil 24g, 3.5mm ID dual coils on the Magma at 30W. Resulting ohms were 1.6ohm. I'm going to try Mega Coils on it one of these days. See if it makes any difference to the vape. According to him, it's "chucking clouds".
Great review! I have the 18650 tube on my ZNA Lite and it is still very stable when standing up. Pressing and holding both the up and down buttons at the same time should lock the power setting. On mine, it takes about 4 seconds of holding them, and it's tricky to hit them both without changing the wattage. Mine also goes to sleep, but pressing the button both wakes it up and fires it.
My side of the discussion about this ( no need for an argument
The earlier regulated mods simply didn't have enough current ( amps ) output to do that. That was the main reasons and advantages that mech mods brought... they could handle high amp loads and reach higher wattages than the earlier regulated mods could hope for but they had to have sub-ohm coils in order to do it. I believe the mindset became that in order to get a lot of flavor/vapor... you had to sub-ohm... and that idea itself is in error, or perhaps it's better to say it's not the whole story.
Didn't know we were having an argument.
I happen to think the same as you. I've experimented with subohm and it is of no use to me. Quite the contrary...it eats up the battery as you point out. But then there are those who like to boil their juice when they vape. I don't get it, but to each their own.
Being a clone... the locked wattage option was one of the things they didn't put in the chip mine has.
Ah, my mistake then. I looked up the info and found that locked wattage feature on a list of specs for the Wotofo/A-Mod clone with the YIHI SXA300 chip.
Well I haven't had a chance to get to a hardware store yet but I did discover that the Stingray and the Stingray X have different threading , I knew they redesigned the switch on the X to make it shorter than the regular Stingray but didn't know they changed the threading , the two switches are totally different from each other the X uses regular ring magnets and the Stingray uses disk magnets , the assembly on the X version is half the height of the older version , oh well , more motivation to fix the tubes on the copper Stingray and the switch on the X .
Well... I'm going by what a video review I saw said... and the fact I've not yet been able to lock it... so perhaps it is just an issue of doing it just so... but I tried "a hundred times" ... lol
It's not really well implemented on the authentic either. Those buttons are placed right along a sharp edge. Lovely design, but pressing for 4 seconds on that edge hurts my thumbs! And it takes a few tries to get it to lock. Still a great mod.
It's not really well implemented on the authentic either. Those buttons are placed right along a sharp edge. Lovely design, but pressing for 4 seconds on that edge hurts my thumbs! And it takes a few tries to get it to lock. Still a great mod.
Can you knock those edges down with a file Lori?
I don't think Lori meant sharp as in cut you sharp.. just a 90° angle...
Right - it's just the angle. I'm not very good at such fine tunings. Also, that part is Zenkote (I think) and I wouldn't want to scuff it. I can live with it, it's just a mild nuisance thing.
I don't think you have to worry about scuffing the Zenkote... PBusardo was getting a tour by Zen in his shop. Zen chucked up a Zenkoted tube in his lathe and spun it up... He then used heavy grit sandpaper ( 80-120 grit ) on it... didn't touch it, just sort of polished it more... he finally took a die grinder to it while it was still in the lathe and barely got it to scratch the surface some.
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