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Bronze

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It turned out to be stainless steel welding wire , 316 or 317 , somebody brought some to a metallurgist that works for a defense contractor for analysis , the metallurgist identified it and said although it wasn't designed for use as a heating element it obviously can be used that way but advised that kanthal was preferable basically because that's what it's made for . Nothing was said about health concerns one way or the other but the Gplat has a much lower melting temperature so no 5 second dryburns with it . The whole thing was a scam though by 2 SOB's that bought the wire in bulk and relabeled it as a secret formula that they developed and sold it at ridiculous prices .

Figures. Got to remember Kanthal is used in space heaters. If anyone is gonna figure out a better wire it is gonna come from that industry. They use a gazzilion more pounds of it than the ecig industry. I'm sure their engineers are more worthy than a couple of slobs in their underwear trying to come up with something for ecigs.
 

retic1959

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  • Jul 28, 2013
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    Figures. Got to remember Kanthal is used in space heaters. If anyone is gonna figure out a better wire it is gonna come from that industry. They use a gazzilion more pounds of it than the ecig industry. I'm sure their engineers are more worthy than a couple of slobs in their underwear trying to come up with something for ecigs.
    The wire works but the price is a ripoff , there's probably material in the aerospace industry that will work as well but we may never see it .
     

    retic1959

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    I solved the crunchy button on the Stingray X but the negative battery contact keeps self tightening , I'm wondering if I put something inside the threads to keep it from bottoming out and to snug it up against , should it be conductive or non-conductive , ie a piece of toothpick or a little wad of kanthal , any ideas or opinions would be appreciated .
     

    Bronze

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    I solved the crunchy button on the Stingray X but the negative battery contact keeps self tightening , I'm wondering if I put something inside the threads to keep it from bottoming out and to snug it up against , should it be conductive or non-conductive , ie a piece of toothpick or a little wad of kanthal , any ideas or opinions would be appreciated .

    I can't picture it. I don't have a Stingray.
     

    retic1959

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    I can't picture it. I don't have a Stingray.
    I'm gonna try another method , either a small washer or o-ring underneath the contact should do it , it's pretty much gonna have to be the perfect size though or I'll have either an autofire if it's to thick or it'll jam the switch if the diameter is to big .
     

    Chakris

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    Chak you need to pickup 26650's for the beast , much better battery life and less voltage drop during a hit . Since you know my thoughs on the SVD , I will say the SVD 2 might be worth a look for the fact that it's packing an Evolv chip , Pb's site says they're gonna be under $100 . I am thinking about this little monster , Cloupor has an update for it that puts it at 75 watts . $73.80 Authentic Cloupor T5 Variable Wattage APV Mod - 7-50W / 1*18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

    Yeah, that SVDna 2.0 night be worth waiting for, if my luck holds out. Even if the VAMO died today, God forbid, I'd still have the provari and 3 spinners, plus the Panzer to use. The trouble is I have the $$$ in hand and it's burning a hole in my pocket! LOL
     

    jefsview

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    I solved the crunchy button on the Stingray X but the negative battery contact keeps self tightening , I'm wondering if I put something inside the threads to keep it from bottoming out and to snug it up against , should it be conductive or non-conductive , ie a piece of toothpick or a little wad of kanthal , any ideas or opinions would be appreciated .

    Sounds similar to my firing button always backing out on my Sentinel M16 clone. The fix was simple: a tiny piece of cotton stuffed into the female button. It doesn't back out and the screw remains tight.

    I haven't had a single issue with my SXK Stingray X clone, aside from the delrin in the firing switch not being seated; but I know about it so I shouldn't lose it accidentally. It hits fantastically, and the swtich is smooth, unlike the $19.99 101vape SS Stingray clone. Crunchy, sticky button. I love it when compared to my M16 clone, but once I received the Stingray X clone, I began to loathe it :)
     

    retic1959

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  • Jul 28, 2013
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    Sounds similar to my firing button always backing out on my Sentinel M16 clone. The fix was simple: a tiny piece of cotton stuffed into the female button. It doesn't back out and the screw remains tight. I haven't had a single issue with my SXK Stingray X clone, aside from the delrin in the firing switch not being seated; but I know about it so I shouldn't lose it accidentally. It hits fantastically, and the swtich is smooth, unlike the $19.99 101vape SS Stingray clone. Crunchy, sticky button. I love it when compared to my M16 clone, but once I received the Stingray X clone, I began to loathe it :)
    It's the luck of the draw with all the Stingrays , genuine included , I watched a comparison review between a genuine SRX and a clone , the genuine's switch was crunchy and binding , Calve said he spent hours working on the genuine copper Stingrays switch and I saw the same complaint on some of the SXK Stingrays as well . Copper is pretty soft and the switches design lends itself to problems like this . But a little work sorts things out and mine is a pleasure to use now and I love the look of it , I will say that either the negative contact should be made 1mm longer or the delrin 1mm thinner and it would remove the issue completely , JD Tech should have done that with the genuine X version .
     

    Bronze

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    Received my Veritas RDA today..a day earlier than it was originally scheduled. I don't know if this dripper is easy to build or if I'm just a good builder, but my first build is a complete success.

    Dual coil, 28ga, 8-wrap, 2.35mm ID. Logs in at 0.7 ohms. I am vaping it on my Nemesis mechanical mod.

    Initial observations: It doesn't leak! This dripper is a cloud chucker and flavor blaster...no two ways about it. Big, thick, dense vapor clouds and a solid burst of flavor. It's kicksass to be sure. The vape is warm because I'm cranking a lot of watts in there but it is not as warm as I thought it would be. I have the air flow set half way and the draw is about the same as the original Kayfun. Lots more top end to this thing. The atty gets fairly warm if I chain vape it. I would expect that with the air flow as little as it is and hitting it at high watts. I have lots of experimenting to do with coil builds, adjusting airflow, and using a regulated mod. But certainly this first build has been a success and can only get better. And it doesn't leak! My biggest gripe with this Ehpro Veritas is the drip tip. It is utterly worthless. It tilts and wobbles all over the place. I don't know why they bother. Anyway, this is why you see the red drip tip in the photo. The rest of the Ehpro Veritas seems very well built. Smooth threads, good fit on the top cap to the base. Solid hardware, clean, nice finish. sharp engraving. Came with spare o-rings, some wire and a piece of eckowool. I'm using my own wire and cotton wick.

    Why did I buy the Veritas? Because it doesn't leak! Also, it's one of four RDA's I know of that designs the airflow to hit the coil directly. The other three being the Magma, Viking, and Plume Veil. I already tried the Plume Veil and it also kicks azz but I do not like the small juice capacity and it leaks easily. One of my pet peeves with vaping is leakage. Drives me nuts! While I am guessing the Veritas, Magma, Viking, and Plume Veil all deliver a very similar vape, I was most interested in the Veritas because of its unique deck design that channels the juice away from the air hole. It is designed to be leak resistant. No RDA is leakproof. Not possible. If you fill an RDA up enough you can make it leak. The Veritas is no exception (I already tried). However, I cannot make this Veritas leak with recommended juice levels even sitting on its side with the air hole down. I roll it around and still no leaks. This thing holds a lot of juice...probably the same as the Magma and Viking. I may eventually pick up a Magma and Viking but can say I'm very much enjoying this Veritas so far. And it doesn't leak!

    More when I have a chance to play around with it some more. Did I say it doesn't leak?

     
    Last edited:

    retic1959

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  • Jul 28, 2013
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    Received my Veritas RDA today..a day earlier than it was originally scheduled. I don't know if this dripper is easy to build or if I'm just a good builder, but my first build is a complete success. Dual coil, 28ga, 8-wrap, 2.35mm ID. Logs in at 0.7 ohms. I am vaping it on my Nemesis mechanical mod. Initial observations: It doesn't leak! This dripper is a cloud chucker and flavor blaster...no two ways about it. Big, thick, dense vapor clouds and a solid burst of flavor. It's kicksass to be sure. The vape is warm because I'm cranking a lot of watts in there but it is not as warm as I thought it would be. I have the air flow set half way and the draw is about the same as the original Kayfun. Lots more top end to this thing. The atty gets fairly warm if I chain vape it. I would expect that with the air flow as little as it is and hitting it at high watts. I have lots of experimenting to do with coil builds, adjusting airflow, and using a regulated mod. But certainly this first build has been a success and can only get better. And it doesn't leak! My biggest gripe with this Ehpro Veritas is the drip tip. It is utterly worthless. It tilts and wobbles all over the place. I don't know why they bother. Anyway, this is why you see the red drip tip in the photo. The rest of the Ehpro Veritas seems very well built. Smooth threads, good fit on the top cap to the base. Solid hardware, clean, nice finish. sharp engraving. Came with spare o-rings, some wire and a piece of eckowool. I'm using my own wire and cotton wick. Why did I buy the Veritas? Because it doesn't leak! Also, it's one of four RDA's I know of that designs the airflow to hit the coil directly. The other three being the Magma, Viking, and Plume Veil. I already tried the Plume Veil and it also kicks azz but I do not like the small juice capacity and it leaks easily. One of my pet peeves with vaping is leakage. Drives me nuts! While I am guessing the Veritas, Magma, Viking, and Plume Veil all deliver a very similar vape, I was most interested in the Veritas because of its unique deck design that channels the juice away from the air hole. It is designed to be leak resistant. No RDA is leakproof. Not possible. If you fill an RDA up enough you can make it leak. The Veritas is no exception (I already tried). However, I cannot make this Veritas leak with recommended juice levels even sitting on its side with the air hole down. I roll it around and still no leaks. This thing holds a lot of juice...probably the same as the Magma and Viking. I may eventually pick up a Magma and Viking but can say I'm very much enjoying this Veritas so far. And it doesn't leak! More when I have a chance to play around with it some more. Did I say it doesn't leak?
    They got it to you pretty quick , good price too , sounds like you got a winner . :)
     
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