Let's Talk Hardware

Status
Not open for further replies.

Dusty_D

Original Guru
Senior Moderator
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 22, 2010
16,228
47,678
53
Toronto, Canada
dustysfoodieadventures.blogspot.ca
This one. The one inside the top cap that this "adjustable" two-piece copper screw fits into.

I saw other people posting on ECF about the delrin slipping - and that's where I found the way to fix it using a tabletop. I think it was on the ElectroNicStix forum that I saw it.


It's supposed to slip down based on what you're screwing on to it. Example: If you use the KFL vs the Magma as JDS', the Magma will push down the delrin because it has a longer 510 connector. When you go back to the KFL, you'll have to move it back up so that the shorter KFL connector can make contact with the centre pin. I don't expect to move mine much, since I have a dedicated KFL for the ZNA. At worst, I might screw a different KFL on to it.
 

LAwaters

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Feb 25, 2014
3,269
48,888
It's supposed to slip down based on what you're screwing on to it. Example: If you use the KFL vs the Magma as JDS', the Magma will push down the delrin because it has a longer 510 connector. When you go back to the KFL, you'll have to move it back up so that the shorter KFL connector can make contact with the centre pin. I don't expect to move mine much, since I have a dedicated KFL for the ZNA. At worst, I might screw a different KFL on to it.

I thought the screws and the spring under the plate that the top cap sits on were what permits adjustability. If the delrin is part of the equation as you say, then it's really less than ideal in my mind. To have to pop it back up manually on a tabletop? And let me tell you, it doesn't pop back in easily. And there is no way to control how far back in it goes - unless you are very good at controlling how much pressure you put on it.

The last time I had to use the tabletop, the delrin went flush with the SS of the top cap. I'm not able to move it back down at all. Over time, it should get there on its own. Maybe when I'm ready to swap out the Veritas and put the Magma back on it.
 

Dusty_D

Original Guru
Senior Moderator
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 22, 2010
16,228
47,678
53
Toronto, Canada
dustysfoodieadventures.blogspot.ca
I thought the screws and the spring under the plate that the top cap sits on were what permits adjustability. If the delrin is part of the equation as you say, then it's really less than ideal in my mind. To have to pop it back up manually on a tabletop? And let me tell you, it doesn't pop back in easily. And there is no way to control how far back in it goes - unless you are very good at controlling how much pressure you put on it.

The last time I had to use the tabletop, the delrin went flush with the SS of the top cap. I'm not able to move it back down at all. Over time, it should get there on its own. Maybe when I'm ready to swap out the Veritas and put the Magma back on it.


Considering that I still have to take a punch and hammer to my Magma connector, I think this will do just fine. Here's a tip. To move it down, just screw whatever atty you want on it. When moving it back up, screw the replacement atty on, and then move it up. It'll stop moving when it comes in contact with the connector. ;)

The screw is there in the event that the delrin moves up far enough that it loses contact with the copper plate on the base module. That's when you loosen the screw to restore connectivity.
 

DavidOH

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Apr 9, 2013
5,309
61,469
Ohio
Ok.. let's figure this out.

What ohms have you got going on your JDS?

Put in a fresh battery, and set your wattage really low. 6W maybe. As long as the power of the battery is more than what the coil needs to deliver that 6w for you, it should flash the ohms.

If I remember I'll check it in the morning when the bat has a full charge. The only spare bat I carry is a 900 spinner for backup. I just plug it in at night and vape while it charges.
 

Bimini Twist

Twisted Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 27, 2012
1,661
5,843
67
Redneck Riviera
www.mboyd.com
I wanna understand the pros and cons of a lower ohm coil. Sounds like you like a pretty warm vape, am I correct? I just can't imagine myself needing to go that low since I like it on the cooler side. Would it really make sense for me to build a 1.5ohm or lower coil?

I totally agree with Dusty on this one. Since I've gone primarily to mechanicals, I prefer wrapping 0.25 to 0.6Ω coils. Since I favor da flavor over clouds, I tend to take short, one to two second pulls. It can be warm if there's not enough air-flow, but with the right airflow and wicking, it can be very rewarding. My Magma is at 0.26Ω with air flow wide open on a Nanos mech right now with that thick, gunky, 100%VG? Boba's Bounty.

Experiment with different setups (with a good understanding of battery safety limits if on a mech), but do keep one or more known favorite setups available while trying. I took a gradual path to sub ohm territory and enjoyed the journey.
 

Bimini Twist

Twisted Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 27, 2012
1,661
5,843
67
Redneck Riviera
www.mboyd.com
I'm still vaping 70/30 at 18mg and it doesn't seem harsh to me at all. I might try lowering the nic just to see, though. But I just this week got a huge order of juices from several vendors, so I guess I'll have to wait a few months. I do mix my own unflavored, so I could try lowering it there, but that's not much of a taste challenge.

One of my local B&M stores that sells high end gear has young cloud chasers working there. I let him try my Dibi Sumpin' mod with the Odin on it at 0.31Ω and 18mg, 70pg/30vg Pirate's Booty in it. He did this cloud chaser method of firing, blowing twice through the atomizer, then trying to take a long pull. He choked on it. I guess I should have warned him about the 18mg & pg/vg ratio and the fact that the Sumpin' is an extremely efficient mechanical.
 

Bimini Twist

Twisted Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 27, 2012
1,661
5,843
67
Redneck Riviera
www.mboyd.com
In other news, I've been skimming over one of the Eleaf Istick threads and somebody mentioned here that it uses a square wave PWM. It seems to be different from the earlier Chinese VW circuits, but he didn't mention the frequency. While I didn't actually hear that 33Hz in my old Vamo V2, I did notice the difference when I got my first Provari. And there seems to be some discussion on that thread about how it hits stronger than the MVPs that most of them seem to have. I think I'll hold off for further reviews.

BTW, here's a pic of a VS with pink shark skin next to a "red" Istick: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/601111-eleaf-istick-77.html
 

Dusty_D

Original Guru
Senior Moderator
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 22, 2010
16,228
47,678
53
Toronto, Canada
dustysfoodieadventures.blogspot.ca

Chakris

Resting In Peace
ECF Veteran
Aug 22, 2012
10,637
44,917
Bangkok, Thailand
In other news, I've been skimming over one of the Eleaf Istick threads and somebody mentioned here that it uses a square wave PWM. It seems to be different from the earlier Chinese VW circuits, but he didn't mention the frequency. While I didn't actually hear that 33Hz in my old Vamo V2, I did notice the difference when I got my first Provari. And there seems to be some discussion on that thread about how it hits stronger than the MVPs that most of them seem to have. I think I'll hold off for further reviews.

BTW, here's a pic of a VS with pink shark skin next to a "red" Istick: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/601111-eleaf-istick-77.html

Whoa, that link was a bit off - had to go back 240 posts to find the pic. Neat comparison though.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sion/601111-eleaf-istick-20.html#post14221933
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread