Let's Talk Hardware

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kkay59

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I can't. I had hell getting it off. I tried hot water first, that didn't do anything. I pushed on it with a small screwdriver, didn't budge it. Finally I had to use a cauterizer to get it out of there. It took forever. The old one is ruined now. I use the cauterizer in my fly tying. I don't need it a lot, but when I do, it is a life saver.
 

retic1959

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  • Jul 28, 2013
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    I can't. I had hell getting it off. I tried hot water first, that didn't do anything. I pushed on it with a small screwdriver, didn't budge it. Finally I had to use a cauterizer to get it out of there. It took forever. The old one is ruined now. I use the cauterizer in my fly tying. I don't need it a lot, but when I do, it is a life saver.
    The spare parts for that atty are here . https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...re-parts-kit-for-kayfun-v3-1-es-rta-atomizers
     

    retic1959

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  • Jul 28, 2013
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    Okay well I think I need some help. For some idiotic reason I decided to change the coil out on the Kayfun. I have done others, no problem. So I decided to check the drip cup, while I was at it, and look at the insulator too. The insulator looked like it needed changing. I bought the Kayfun kit at Lightning Vapes. It has the insulators, and the o rings, as y'all right remember. I already did the o rings. Today I decided to go ahead and change the insulators. The top one where the air hole is, went in fine. The one in the bottom, was a beast to get out of there. So I got it out finally, and put in the new one. The older one was thin, and touched the bottom of the hole. The top part of it, did not meet the top, where you put in the screw. I noticed as I put the screw in, that the screw was going down further than it looked previously. It was close to flush with that 510 threading. I barely got it the slightest big snug, and it was flush, or maybe just a little below there. I knew that wasn't right. So I pushed the insulator up a little, and tried it again. That seemed better. Put the multimeter on it, and it showed close to the ohms I thought it would be. Then I decided to put it on the iStick and fire it up, and pinch the coil a little tighter. When I did that, it showed 0 ohms. Not good. So I put the multimeter back on it. Still shows ohms. Put it on the MVP2, it was not showing ohms either. I hope that the insulator I put in, is compatible with this Kayfun. If not I will have to buy a new one. Thoughts?
    KK , you have three options that I can think of . The first is use a small punch and drive the insulater further down in the 510 connection . The second is to get a small o-ring and put it on the contact pin of the atty and reassemble it . The third is to buy the spare parts I linked you to and replace the insulater .
     

    Dusty_D

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    dustysfoodieadventures.blogspot.ca
    tumblr_inline_mhytd4hOWK1qz4rgp.gif
     

    Bunnykiller

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    Nov 17, 2013
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    KK , you have three options that I can think of . The first is use a small punch and drive the insulater further down in the 510 connection . The second is to get a small o-ring and put it on the contact pin of the atty and reassemble it . The third is to buy the spare parts I linked you to and replace the insulater .

    and the forth.... dont fix it or you might swallow something
     

    MostlySunny

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    The squape has still not arrived. In the meantime I'm looking for a machine screw that goes the other direction. Is that called reverse threading? I don't want to sound like an idiot at Home Depot and come home with the wrong thing. Thanks...

    The normal machine screws wind the wrong way for the legs to get wrapped clockwise. I've been managing ok but the other thread will make things much easier.
     
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