Let's Talk Hardware

[Pappy]

I'm still using a Vamo and a Kanger Pro tank v.1 I have later upgrades of the Pro tank, but always go back to the v.1 My Vamo v.1 died eventually, of course, so I picked up a Vamo 5 and love it just as much. I also have an iTaste SVD, which I despise. Maybe I'm OCD, but pretty much all I vape is CAT. It just works. And The SVD makes it taste not so good. For some reason, a Vamo, and the Pro tank v.1 (or 2) is perfection.

The problem is the heads. I've found a nice voltage to make them last, but it would be great to be able to go nuts with the plumes every now and then. I've stopped using wattage all together, as it seems to run down the heads much more quickly, and with no benefit. 4.7-4.9 volts for a week and a week and a half, then ramp it up over 5.0v for a few days after before changing heads. Like I say, it works.

I'll be honest.. I'd love to be able to rebuild a head -- toss in a cotton wick, etc. But it seems fairly complex and time consuming to do with one of these heads that go into the protank v.1. Do-able, but not worth the effort for "eh, would be kind of neat to be able to ramp up the plumes."

I haven't been following many developments in the vape world for a while, but wanted to drop by and ask if there is some "easy peasey" kit to rebuilding heads for the protank. Or perhaps maybe even move on from the pro tank v.1 haha

Just tossing it out there in case anyone has any insight.

Hope everyone is doing well.

Bodach, I used Vivi Nova tanks for a long time and was satisfied with them, and didn't want to fiddle with making coils for anything.

Then, at Retic's and BK's suggestion, I bought an HCigar Kayfun 3.1 clone and loved it. I've since bought 3 more of them and also bought a KFL+ clone. I haven't used my Vivi Novas for a long time.

I actually prefer the Kayfun 3.1 over the KFL+ for a couple of reasons. First, the center contact pin in the base can be screwed in or out easily, which is handy because some MODs (like my Silver Bullet) won't make contact and fire unless the pin is screwed out a little more.

Secondly, I can fill it from the top just by unscrewing the top cap. With the KFL+, I have to unscrew the tiny little fill screw on the underside of the base. It's not a problem, but it's just easier on the 3.1.

The only advantage I see to the KFL+ is that it is a little smaller than the 3.1. Not much, but a noticeable amount. You can buy a nano kit for the 3.1 that reduces the size a fair amount.

My suggestion is to buy both of them and see which one you like.

BTW, it's good to hear from you. It's been a while.

 

[retic1959]

Bodach, I used Vivi Nova tanks for a long time and was satisfied with them, and didn't want to fiddle with making coils for anything. Then, at Retic's and BK's suggestion, I bought an HCigar Kayfun 3.1 clone and loved it. I've since bought 3 more of them and also bought a KFL+ clone. I haven't used my Vivi Novas for a long time. I actually prefer the Kayfun 3.1 over the KFL+ for a couple of reasons. First, the center contact pin in the base can be screwed in or out easily, which is handy because some MODs (like my Silver Bullet) won't make contact and fire unless the pin is screwed out a little more. Secondly, I can fill it from the top just by unscrewing the top cap. With the KFL+, I have to unscrew the tiny little fill screw on the underside of the base. It's not a problem, but it's just easier on the 3.1. The only advantage I see to the KFL+ is that it is a little smaller than the 3.1. Not much, but a noticeable amount. You can buy a nano kit for the 3.1 that reduces the size a fair amount. My suggestion is to buy both of them and see which one you like. BTW, it's good to hear from you. It's been a while.

Pappy I still prefer the 3.1 as well for the same reasons you listed , but you get the evil eye around here for suggesting anything other than a KFL around here , the Hcigar 3.1 is an outstanding piece of gear , definitely can't go wrong with that either .

 

[Bunnykiller]

I got the KF 3.1.... no reason to get the KFL

 

[rdsok]

I'm still using a Vamo and a Kanger Pro Tank v.1 I have later upgrades of the Pro Tank, but always go back to the v.1 My Vamo v.1 died eventually, of course, so I picked up a Vamo 5 and love it just as much. I also have an iTaste SVD, which I despise. Maybe I'm OCD, but pretty much all I vape is CAT. It just works. And The SVD makes it taste not so good. For some reason, a Vamo, and the Pro Tank v.1 (or 2) is perfection.

The problem is the heads. I've found a nice voltage to make them last, but it would be great to be able to go nuts with the plumes every now and then. I've stopped using wattage all together, as it seems to run down the heads much more quickly, and with no benefit. 4.7-4.9 volts for a week and a week and a half, then ramp it up over 5.0v for a few days after before changing heads. Like I say, it works.

I'll be honest.. I'd love to be able to rebuild a head -- toss in a cotton wick, etc. But it seems fairly complex and time consuming to do with one of these heads that go into the protank v.1. Do-able, but not worth the effort for "eh, would be kind of neat to be able to ramp up the plumes."

I haven't been following many developments in the vape world for a while, but wanted to drop by and ask if there is some "easy peasey" kit to rebuilding heads for the protank. Or perhaps maybe even move on from the pro tank v.1 haha

Just tossing it out there in case anyone has any insight.

Hope everyone is doing well.

First... Get an Air Flow Controller aks AFC base ( if you can still find them ) for your Protank... it'll be a really big improvement on the vape you are currently getting. The bases were made for the Aerotank line but also fit the Protank's. Of course just getting an Aerotank should also suffice. This will help increase your flavor you get as well as give you more vapor. With the Protanks you will never be a cloud chaser, there just isn't enough air flow for that and besides, at some point the more vapor you get, the flavor will start dropping off also.

I'll second the recommendation to get the HCigar Kayfun lite + v2 clone mentioned... Infinity also makes a really good one of that version which is what I got.

Ignore the comment made about the Kanger Subtanks... your Vamo hasn't got enough in it to run one. Most people are running them around the 25w mark give or take. If you are interested in one, some day, you'll need a new mod capable of running them. Once you reach that point, you can then also worry more about any cloud chasing you may want to try... you just won't get there with a Vamo.

Rebuilding coils... for anything you are making coils for... Pick up a Coil Master coiling jig... they can be had for less than $10 from places like FastTech and FocaleCig... or about $11-$16 from the USA. On the Protank... 30g or 28g kanthal a1 will probably be best depending on what ohm coils you prefer. Also pick up some japanese organic cotton pads for wicking... very clean tasting and wicks very fast.

For my Protanks... I usually build about at 1.8Ω... I use a 1.5mm ( or 1/16" rod works if not using the coil master ) and wrap a 30g wire about 10 wraps. Thread some of the wick you are using through and then set wick down into the slots on the coil head... replace the insulator and 510 pin on the bottom and trim down the wick that is overhanging. There are plenty of vids showing the methodology and once you get used to it.. it won't take but a few minutes... piddling around it takes me about 6 minutes or so if I'm not hurrying.

Your concepts about watts vs volts is naive. When you turn up the volts, you are still turning up the watts it's just that your Vamo isn't showing you both values at the same time. Same in reverse... turning up watts also turn up the volts. Do the math ( using an online ohms calculator )... find out what voltage you are liking on a particular ohm coil head and see what the watts are that your using. Then switch to wattage mode on the same head and set it to the same watts... Your battery will last the same amount of time either way.

The only advantage on your Vamo that using volts will give you... is allows a slightly finer adjustment in the end output. The volts adjust in 0.1v increments and the watts in 0.5w but it's a very minor difference. As an example...

4v on a 1.8Ω coil = 8.889w... if we move up a notch
4.1v on a 1.8Ω coil = 9.339w

The total wattage change ended up being only 0.45w ... so using volts instead allows a 0.05w finer adjustment to the output. Had we been adjusting in watts... you'd have gone from a 9w to a 9.5w

Where wattage has an advantage is when you are changing coil heads with different resistances.. the output will remain consistent across different heads. Where if you change a head ( with a different resistance ) and are using voltage mode, you also have to adjust the output in order that your power remains consistent.

 

[Chakris]

or sleeping. What time is it in Paradise anyways ?

At the time of your post, Papaw, it was around 3:41 AM in Hawaii. I doubt very much if Hula would have been up at that God forsaken hour...

 

[Bronze]

retic, THANK YOU. Looking into the Kayfun! I might just enter 2015, yet!

Bodie, it's long past time that you upgrade your vape gear. Your CAT will be even better. The KFL is an excellent upgrade for you. And we'll help you get up and going. You'll need wick and wire as well.

 

[DavidOH]

You can get nickel wire at angelcigs now.


Check out the new Squonker. It's in the first seven minutes. It's a beast.

 

[Bronze]

Hmmm....that has to be the same Darwin as the popular mod that competed with Provari for a lot of years. Then they just disappeared from the face of the Earth. Interesting. It was a unique mod (the original one) that was very expensive. In those days, Darwin and Provari were the two Cadillacs. Perhaps they are making a comeback if this is indeed the same Darwin.

 

[SamuelMSr]

You can get nickel wire at angelcigs now.


Check out the new Squonker. It's in the first seven minutes. It's a beast.

I got nickel from Lightning Vape on Amazon. $7.50 for 100'

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk!

 

[DavidOH]

Hmmm....that has to be the same Darwin as the popular mod that competed with Provari for a lot of years. Then they just disappeared from the face of the Earth. Interesting. It was a unique mod (the original one) that was very expensive. In those days, Darwin and Provari were the two Cadillacs. Perhaps they are making a comeback if this is indeed the same Darwin.

With a 50mil bottle some people could vape for a couple weeks without refilling.

 

[Bunnykiller]

I didn't build no coils or clean any tanks. I only have one I'm using anyway. But my 6/32 vented 7/8 screws got here today. But the 2 FD V4 connectors didn't. Does matter I'll be putting polyurethane on for the next few days and working out a couple changes in it.

BEENOM??? ummm keyboards work better

 

[Bunnykiller]

picked up a 30mm Kayfun for S&G ( 12$) this thing is huge... about the same size of a 30ml HHV bottle, probably can hold 20+ ml... really odd looking considering the size of the base of the tank compared to the build deck ( std KF size)... as soon as the batteries are charged up in the camera, Ill post some pix

 

[rdsok]

Hmmm....that has to be the same Darwin as the popular mod that competed with Provari for a lot of years. Then they just disappeared from the face of the Earth. Interesting. It was a unique mod (the original one) that was very expensive. In those days, Darwin and Provari were the two Cadillacs. Perhaps they are making a comeback if this is indeed the same Darwin.

The Darwin mod was made by Evolv... it was the first wattage regulated mod.

 

[Chakris]

picked up a 30mm Kayfun for S&G ( 12$) this thing is huge... about the same size of a 30ml HHV bottle, probably can hold 20+ ml... really odd looking considering the size of the base of the tank compared to the build deck ( std KF size)... as soon as the batteries are charged up in the camera, Ill post some pix

Yes, pics would be nice. The only 30ml I have for the Panzer is the Big Buddha which is in need of some tweaking. It started leaking a week or so ago - I think I may have a worn out o-ring on there or something.

 

[Chakris]

I didn't build no coils or clean any tanks. I only have one I'm using anyway. But my 6/32 vented 7/8 screws got here today. But the 2 FD V4 connectors didn't. Does matter I'll be putting polyurethane on for the next few days and working out a couple changes in it.

BEENOM??? ummm keyboards work better

Sounds like David's working on his mod... Kind of like thinking out loud, but in text.

 

[Bronze]

The Darwin mod was made by Evolv... it was the first wattage mod regulated mod.

Hmmm...didn't know that was evolv. Why did they discontinue it and did they replace it with anything?

 

[Bunnykiller]

okay as sorta promised ... a pic of the KF+ biggie next to a HHV 30ml bottle and a bonus... Nitemare juice bottle... REDHOT flavor



and a bit more on the bottle... its a SS 30 ml with screw on cap with a swivel chain and clip ( spring loaded)
I bought this just for the bottle cuz its just way to kewl.... only thing.... you have to pour the juice into the atty... great for wide bore drippers and removable tops but its gonna be a real pain if you need something like a blunt needle or such to fill your atty.... you will have to carry a syringe to do so....

 

[rdsok]

Hmmm...didn't know that was evolv. Why did they discontinue it and did they replace it with anything?

The Kick's came out after that.. then they went to just doing the boards and such.

 

[Bunnykiller]

and here is another pic of the KF+ biggie on a 26650 Hades next to a Overdose 18650 with a CLT

 

[Bronze]

okay as sorta promised ... a pic of the KF+ biggie next to a HHV 30ml bottle and a bonus... Nitemare juice bottle... REDHOT flavor

View attachment 410334

Good grief!