- Status
Almost, '12(?) istick 20. 2013 I-40. All my early egos still worked until I recycled them last year. Never had a lipo battery die.
Egos---9 years
Provari---over 8 years
Bolt mech---9 years
Subtank Nano---7years
K 100---about 8 or 9 years
K101---about 8 or 9 years
Provari---over 8 years
Bolt mech---9 years
Subtank Nano---7years
K 100---about 8 or 9 years
K101---about 8 or 9 years
Interesting! I'll have to check my old ego's, I found two that I just pitched and very dead.
Replaceable battery mods can last a long time. So long that many of the longer lives can no longer be purchased. The problem becomes finding batteries that still work in them. To date I have yet to have a VV mod that failed on me for an electronics reason. The ones I have pitched had problems with their paint or their 510 connector wearing out. Except the VTX 200 squonk. That one I got like a week out of, and it’s parts were to flimsy to allow it to get back together again.
Yes those button top 18650's are not as easy to find. Hoping the 18650 flat tops stick around awhile.
Interesting about LiPo batts, I guess my little Orion DNA's could last a very long time!
Considering that we gamble on the quality of an unseen battery, they Do seem to work well. I mostly remember off brand eGo's and many cig-likes dying early.
Spinners 6 years old. Haven't used them for 2 or 3 years and they still work. iStick 40 5 years and still going fine.
3 Sigeleis started glitching after less than a year. The screens would stay lit on the dim setting until the battery ran down to 2 volts. Then one of them started firing while it sat on my desk in front of me and burned a battery. The 510 wore out on an iStick 30 after 3 years.
Provaris are coming in the winner here. Maybe that's just because not many mods have been around that long. It will be interesting to have this conversation 5 years from now. Basically we have no way of knowing how most mods will hold up over ten years. How well we treat them is probably a big factor.
3 Sigeleis started glitching after less than a year. The screens would stay lit on the dim setting until the battery ran down to 2 volts. Then one of them started firing while it sat on my desk in front of me and burned a battery. The 510 wore out on an iStick 30 after 3 years.
Provaris are coming in the winner here. Maybe that's just because not many mods have been around that long. It will be interesting to have this conversation 5 years from now. Basically we have no way of knowing how most mods will hold up over ten years. How well we treat them is probably a big factor.
Vamo V5 2013 and a Evic Mini from 2015. If they're not your main device and get rotated every so often, I've had very few dying on me.
There are some general things to look for which are more or less the same as any other object. Stainless Steel beats aluminum beats zinc beats plastic. Everything that isn’t paint beats paint. Good machining beats poor machining. Simplicity beats complexity. Replaceable parts beat non replaceable parts if you can get or have parts. Thick threads beat thin threads beat press fitting. Replaceable glass beats plastic. Replaceable batteries beat non replaceable batteries if you can get replacement batteries. Non replaceable glass may or may not beat plastic. I’m also going to say USBC beats microUSB2 and then I’m going to get jumped on by @Punk In Drublic
Sigelei Zmax
Smoant Battlestar-love this mod, it’s simple and sturdy. I watched a review where it was disassembled and it is put together well. Had thick wires attached very well and the 510 was attached to the box very well. This thing is solid as they come and it’s a hard one to kill short up dunking in water or having batteries explode in them although I think it could survive that as long as the board didn’t take a direct hit.
Smoant Battlestar-love this mod, it’s simple and sturdy. I watched a review where it was disassembled and it is put together well. Had thick wires attached very well and the 510 was attached to the box very well. This thing is solid as they come and it’s a hard one to kill short up dunking in water or having batteries explode in them although I think it could survive that as long as the board didn’t take a direct hit.
I agree that USB C is a better interface than Micro USB 2. I disagree with your Micro USB 2 claims on how fragile it is. One sentence you claim the port can break in weeks. Then you refer to a test that demonstrates decades of use if used once a day similar to how we charge our vape devices. Bit contradicting
Did I call it or what?
“Can”. As in “is capable of”. In my personal case “it happened” also qualifies. I don’t say it’s doomed I say it’s fragile. Fragile things aren’t required to automatically break, they merely do it more easily.
I have 3 Provari's that still work like new, all 7 years old; they are no longer in use because of how difficult it is to find quality button top batteries, and the fact that I am now a subohm vaper. Also have an AltSmoke Silver Bullet mech and Reo Grand mech, but prefer using a regulated variable wattage mod.
Last edited:
In 2016 I sold most of my Provari Mini's and 2.5's for that very reason, button tops. I kept 2 but mostly have P3's and Radius's now. 3 yrs on 2 Radius in rotation and they work like brand new.
I'm pretty certain the Darwin by Evolv was the first wattage mod. The Provari may not have been the first variable voltage mod, but one of a select few.
I remember all the Provari vs Darwin, Provari vs Reo, Provari vs the latest Chinese mod threads. Interesting that it was always the Provari being compared to another mod. It was the gold standard of its day. RIP Provape.
- Status
Similar threads
