Looking for Kit/Liquid/Nic Advice.

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MLEJ

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Is it possible to get a spare tank to Z80 or I have to get a second device?
Where you screw your tank into your Z80 is called the 510 connection. 510 is a standard. Almost any tank w/ a 510 pin will connect to any device w/ a 510 connection. There are plenty to choose from and a Z80 should have enough power for them. Of course, the more power you use, the faster you'll drain the single battery. Look for a tank that says it's sub-Ohm if you want clouds. A lot of folks like Freemax Fireluke & HorizonTech Falcon & Uwell Crown tanks.
That said, a spare mod is never a bad idea.
 

Z-Lee

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  • Apr 17, 2021
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    What do you mean by "properly prime the coil"? If that means properly fit into the atomizer, I`m not seeing any leaks yet :D.
    The good part is that it looks like feeds me enough with nicotine :D
    I will have to keep this brief as I'm headed to work right now, but will describe to you in better detail how AC current works differently than DC current without getting overly technical. Glad you are able to get your nic fix. =)

    Priming the coil is something you do when you first install the coil. When you have the coil out out of the tank and spin it, you can see holes that access the wick (cotton) of the coil. I always fill each of those holes up with ejuice until they've fully absorbed it. I do this 2-3 times for each hole. I then flip the coil vertically, but slightly tilted and spin the coil while I sort of let the bottle drain onto the inner portion where you see the coil. You don't need a ton here - it just helps with fully saturating the wick before you stick the tank around it.

    This was the first thing that came to mind after you mentioned the taste of burning. If you are still tasting burning after it's been sitting there with juice for at least a half hour, mention that. I gotta go, but will look at this later. For now, hopefully you're enjoying the Z80. I sure am.
     
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    Z-Lee

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    Where you screw your tank into your Z80 is called the 510 connection. 510 is a standard. Almost any tank w/ a 510 pin will connect to any device w/ a 510 connection. There are plenty to choose from and a Z80 should have enough power for them. Of course, the more power you use, the faster you'll drain the single battery. Look for a tank that says it's sub-Ohm if you want clouds. A lot of folks like Freemax Fireluke & HorizonTech Falcon & Uwell Crown tanks.
    That said, a spare mod is never a bad idea.
    @Metin I'm a Fireluke 3 user. I have 3 of them, and it's hard to use any of my other tanks now. The GeekVape Z Sub-ohm tanks (Zeus) are also very good, with long coil life. If you can get your hands on a 2021 Z sub-ohm, they are definitely on par with the Firelukes. The Z tank model prior to this one is also very good, and use the Z coils.

    I have a Horizon Falcon King and a Crown 3 (they have a 4 and 5 now, so I'm sure they've up'd their game), but I'm not sure they've updated their coils. The mesh you'll find in the Fireluke 3/Maxluke/Maxus (X coils), and the Z coils found in the GeekVape Z tanks have spoiled me.
     
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    Z-Lee

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    To be honest, today is the 2nd day with the device. I`m playing with the airflow. Sometimes fully open gives a more smooth vape with less to none burn taste effect, but sometimes no hit at all so for the next pull I close it to half or so. What I notice with F0 is when I set 100Hz taste way softer than on 51Hz. I`m not sure if it's safe to lower it more with a 0.8 Z coil. Coil recommendation is 14-17W so I try to stick with that keeping it mostly on 14W with some experiments 15-15.5W.
    DC current which is what about 99% of the market currently uses with batteries applies a direct current. When you close the circuit, it fires in full, until the circuit is broken.

    Now, imagine in your left hand, holding a horse shoe sideways so it looks like a C. In your right hand, you have a coat hanger that you've bent into a U-shape, holding it sideways at the ends. You then spin the coat hanger horizontally between the end "hooks" of the horse shoe.

    An AC current uses an outer C-shaped electromagnet and a U-shaped wire that's spun along a horizontal axis between the poles of the magnet. The arm that spins this circular wire on the horizontal axis is also providing an electrical current through the wire (in the example above, it would be your arm). When both wires are closest to the electromagnet (straight up and down), you will have the strongest current, as one magnetic pole is pushing and the other side is pulling. That is a peak of the frequency or oscillation if you are picturing a sound or light wave. As it continues to spin, the wires that were closest to the magnetic poles will now begin traveling further away. At a 1/4 of a rotation (1/4 oscillation), both the wires will be the furthest away from both poles of the magnet, leaving the weakest point of current. This would be the mid-point of the downward oscillation. Any further wire rotation toward the opposing poles beyond this mid-point will create a change in the flow of current as what was once a push and pull between the two sides of the wire, has now become a pull and push. Continuing that spin, the wires will begin approaching closer to the poles, but as it was just mentioned, they are reaching the opposite poles of the magnet from when they were last closest. You are now at the lowest point in the oscillation - at a 1/2 rotation or oscillation. The current is strongest again. Continuing on, the wires begin going further away from the magnetic poles. When at 3/4 rotation or oscillation, you are at the mid-point of the upward portion of the oscillation and at the weakest point of the current; again at the point in which the flow of current will be reversed upon further rotation. Completing the final 1/4 rotation will bring the wires back to their starting point being closest to the original poles they started at - the strongest current. The completion of this full rotation is a single Hz.

    I found an animation that will hopefully help you visualize this a bit better.
    AC current.gif


    Setting a higher Hz value will cause a higher frequency, which means more oscillations for a given time period. In the case of the Z80, setting the Hz to 100 likely means there's a 100 full rotations a second, or 100 Hz. Setting it lower to say 20 Hz, broadens or expands that oscillation slowing it down to 20 full rotations per second. This is where the "pulse" comes in. In the description above, every time the wires are nearest to the magnetic poles, this is when the current is strongest. As it pertains to the Z80 mod, this is when the coil would be the hottest - a pulse. Think of it like you're rapidly hitting the fire button on your mod - you're pulsing the fire button. At 1/4 rotation, it's the weakest - this is a lull in the current. When at 1/2 rotation, it is again at one of its strongest points. The flow of current has reversed directions and we experience another pulse. At 3/4 rotation, another lull, and reaching the full rotation again, another pulse.

    We've seen mods like the Vaporesso Gen S and Ultra/X mimic this behavior in their mods utilizing the "Pulse Mode". However, you aren't able to adjust how fast it's pulsing - you can now with the Z80 via Hz.

    I hope this helps some. I apologize, it's been a while since I've studied brushless AC motors, so some of this is rather rusty.
     
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    Molchi

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    About your cloud chasing keep in mind that when you use bigger coils with higher wattages you not only drain your batteries faster, but you also draw more Amps from them, at 45W for example you are already at 16-17Amps, so if you really got batteries as recommended with 15A max i would consider getting higher amp batteries like Sony/Murata VTC5A or similar.
     

    BoilerGuy

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    Z-Lee

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  • Apr 17, 2021
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    Something else came up to my mind. Thinking to try out a tank for "cloud-chasing". Is it possible to get a spare Tank to Z80 or I have to get a second device? Any recommendations are very welcome!
    While the F0 feature has turned out to be quite the treat, if you're looking to cloud chase, higher wattages are going to achieve this better. As others have mentioned, this is also going to require higher Continuous Discharge Rated (CDR) batteries. The Z80 is limited to 80w, which would require an 18650 battery with a CDR of about 27 to safely make use of all 80w. This would reliably limit you to Sony VTC3 (28A), LG HB 2/4/6 (30A), Samsung 20S (30A) - Samsung 20S being the best choice from the lot of them. If you back your mod down to 75w, you're looking at 25A CDR batteries, which opens up the door to a plethora of other choices. Sony VTC5D (25A), Samsung 25S & 24S (25A), Murata (Sony) VTC5A (25A), Molicel P26A/P28A (25A) - The Molicels being the best of these options.

    A better option overall for higher wattages would be to find yourself a nice dual battery mod which cuts the Amp load on the batteries in half. To hit 80w in a dual battery mod, would require about 14A CDR batteries. A ton of batteries can easy achieve this, and will also likely have a higher capacity giving you longer battery life per charge in each of them. If you like the pulse feature of the F0, I would suggest looking for a Vaporesso Gen S or Ultra (Gen X) - they have a pulse mode that mimics the F0 feature, but you cannot adjust the rate at which it pulses. They are a dual 18650 mod and are quite reliable and nice in hand.
     
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