They are not made to turn stone. But i suppose you could if you installed a coolant system. You would need a steady flow of coolant on the diamond cutting bits. Also lots of patients cutting stone is slow work.
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They are not made to turn stone. But i suppose you could if you installed a coolant system. You would need a steady flow of coolant on the diamond cutting bits. Also lots of patients cutting stone is slow work.
Cool, just wondering, there are some other things I was thinking about making out of stone..
Anyway, I am thinking about also getting this premium tool kit - I'm hoping to get something in addition to the lathe and maybe a piece or two of delrin so I can at least fiddle with the lathe until I get paid again.
How are those TCMT Carbide inserts on the turning tools?
Do I have to sharpen those inserts?
I know I should probably still get better carbide turning tools, ones that I shape and sharpen myself, but will these do the job for now?
It seems like I would use most of that stuff, and would probably cost less if I got the kit. Then again, I'm no expert.
Also, what tool would I need to do outside and inside threading?
Very excited, I've pretty much made up my mind about getting this 7x12 lathe from LMS. Just waiting for a check in the mail and I will order it.
Anyway, I am thinking about also getting this premium tool kit - I'm hoping to get something in addition to the lathe and maybe a piece or two of delrin so I can at least fiddle with the lathe until I get paid again.
How are those TCMT Carbide inserts on the turning tools?
Do I have to sharpen those inserts?
I know I should probably still get better carbide turning tools, ones that I shape and sharpen myself, but will these do the job for now?
It seems like I would use most of that stuff, and would probably cost less if I got the kit. Then again, I'm no expert.
Also, what tool would I need to do outside and inside threading?
Very excited, I've pretty much made up my mind about getting this 7x12 lathe from LMS. Just waiting for a check in the mail and I will order it.
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This will do inside and outside threading.LittleMachineShop.com - Threading Tool, 1/2" Indexable HSS Inserts You can also use a tap to cut threads. cutting threads is one of the tougher things to learn on a lathe.
Tool kit looks nice. The steel quick change is going to hold up a lot better then aluminum ones, if you going to be cutting a lot of 316 stainless.
Tool kit looks nice. The steel quick change is going to hold up a lot better then aluminum ones, if you going to be cutting a lot of 316 stainless.
Ah perfect thanks. So does that just go on the tool post or somehow attach to the tailstock? I know I've got a lot of learning to do, just wondering if there's anything else I need to buy for that tool.
I'll probably have to get a good beginners book on metal lathe working as well, any recommendations? I don't want to rely or trust youtube, it seems like there is some bad information there.
I'll probably have to get a good beginners book on metal lathe working as well, any recommendations? I don't want to rely or trust youtube, it seems like there is some bad information there.
Nope , it would go in one of the quick change tool holders. Nothing else needed really for it. There might be cheaper ones out there but i would for sure stick with a insert system. You can grind your own out of HHS blanks but that is not easy to do. With that bar you just replace the insert on it and your back in business.
I dont know of any books. When i went to machinist school is was pretty much hands on for everything but the CNC part of it. Tests were him handing you a blue print and saying make this. You might find some free Ebooks out there on the subject if you look around. Then you can search reviews of the books name to see if it is worth a damn.
Ok I figured it'd fit in the quick change tool post, just wanted to be sure. So, the lathe, the premium kit and that threading tool should be all I need, aside from a couple good measuring tools, yeah? Oh yeah, and some good drill bits.. Still not quite sure what to get for that yet. I imagine what I will be doing wont need to be precision-perfect, though... could I just get by with a ruler for now? The only thing I may have trouble with is measuring O-ring slots, but that could even just be trial and error. Either way, I'd like to get at least a basic tool for measuring outer+inner diameters and depth (for the slots), I can't really think of anything else I'd need to measure in my case..
Also, looks like there is a learning center for the mini lathe on LMS - I will start there
Boy am I excited! I'm gonna try hard to order everything I can from LMS in one go, mainly because I don't want to pay shipping twice, but my cart is already at $1,320 with shipping... so that probably can't happen, we'll see
Also, looks like there is a learning center for the mini lathe on LMS - I will start there
Boy am I excited! I'm gonna try hard to order everything I can from LMS in one go, mainly because I don't want to pay shipping twice, but my cart is already at $1,320 with shipping... so that probably can't happen, we'll see
I would get at least a 6 inch Dial caliper you can do quite a bit with that.inside outside length and depth. You can get them in digital but personally i think dials are much betterhttp://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dial-caliper-66541.html It your getting a 4 jaw chuck your going to need a magnetic base with a dial indicator on it. No way your going to get your work pieces true without one. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html magnetic base http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html these are going to be about the cheapest out there. There are not top quality but from what we do they will work just fine. It is not like we are making parts for the space shuttle.
Some good stuff on LMS site they have a really good write up about how to use a 4 jaw chuck.
Edit: The 1/2 threading tool might not work in the mini lathe i think you might need to get the 3/8 one http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3695&category=-765769359
Some good stuff on LMS site they have a really good write up about how to use a 4 jaw chuck.
Edit: The 1/2 threading tool might not work in the mini lathe i think you might need to get the 3/8 one http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3695&category=-765769359
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Yeah, I actually might pass on the 4 jaw chuck... for not much more money I could get a Ryobi drill press at Home Depot, which I could use for plenty of other things, and I think it'd be easier?
Still deciding on that. 4 jaw chuck would be nice because then it's all done on the lathe, but I could use the drill press for many projects, too. Then again, it'd be the same price for the 4 jaw chuck and the magnetic base stuff... hmm
Ah thanks for the HF link, I could probably get that locally, too, with this 20% off coupon I have.. would only be like $16
Still deciding on that. 4 jaw chuck would be nice because then it's all done on the lathe, but I could use the drill press for many projects, too. Then again, it'd be the same price for the 4 jaw chuck and the magnetic base stuff... hmm
Ah thanks for the HF link, I could probably get that locally, too, with this 20% off coupon I have.. would only be like $16
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Java..he may be better off starting with a homemade internal threading bar from HSS...he will be limited to what he can cut with the minimum bore ID of 1.375" with that bar you linked.
I always like to use these Micro 100 boring bars for making threaders for tight places...much easier than starting from scratch and the carbide keeps an edge longer. I havent ground this one for threading yet...
Or go with something like these (for example)... ISCAR Cutting Tools - Metal Working Tools - Iscar Catalog : PICCO R/L-ISO-Thread
But then again with no machining experience getting a box of HSS blanks and a good grinder may be the best before moving to expensive carbide. Just remember subver...if you go with cobalt or carbide your regular aluminum oxide grinding wheel wont even scratch that stuff...save yourself the agony and get a diamond wheel.
Once you know what to buy keep an eye out on ebay for tooling...the auctions not the dealers. I just got 11 carbide 4 flute endmills that just one was slightly used...for $92....normally they were $30-40 each mills. The guy was just closing up shop and getting rid of everything.
Oh yeah...and for "cutting" stone or ceramic...that is usually done on a dedicated lathe with a tool post grinder mounted on it....you dont want to go there!! That stuff gets everywhere and will take your lathes ways and slides out real quick. Speaking of which...the best thing you can do for your lathe is protect and maintain the ways, slides and lead screw...if they are junk your parts will be junk. Also...I have seen some good youtube vids on machining...not all for sure...just judge for yourself when watching them and go with common sense. Rigidity...largest tooling possible for the job..the shortest overhangs...and tooling position in relation to centerline is the key....then its just a matter of speeds and feeds for the material being machined. Just dont expect a lot from these minis going in to it....then you wont be disappointed.
I always like to use these Micro 100 boring bars for making threaders for tight places...much easier than starting from scratch and the carbide keeps an edge longer. I havent ground this one for threading yet...
Or go with something like these (for example)... ISCAR Cutting Tools - Metal Working Tools - Iscar Catalog : PICCO R/L-ISO-Thread
But then again with no machining experience getting a box of HSS blanks and a good grinder may be the best before moving to expensive carbide. Just remember subver...if you go with cobalt or carbide your regular aluminum oxide grinding wheel wont even scratch that stuff...save yourself the agony and get a diamond wheel.
Once you know what to buy keep an eye out on ebay for tooling...the auctions not the dealers. I just got 11 carbide 4 flute endmills that just one was slightly used...for $92....normally they were $30-40 each mills. The guy was just closing up shop and getting rid of everything.
Oh yeah...and for "cutting" stone or ceramic...that is usually done on a dedicated lathe with a tool post grinder mounted on it....you dont want to go there!! That stuff gets everywhere and will take your lathes ways and slides out real quick. Speaking of which...the best thing you can do for your lathe is protect and maintain the ways, slides and lead screw...if they are junk your parts will be junk. Also...I have seen some good youtube vids on machining...not all for sure...just judge for yourself when watching them and go with common sense. Rigidity...largest tooling possible for the job..the shortest overhangs...and tooling position in relation to centerline is the key....then its just a matter of speeds and feeds for the material being machined. Just dont expect a lot from these minis going in to it....then you wont be disappointed.
Awesome info nicotime, thanks! I have no clue as to what "designation" to get one of those threading tools.
Perhaps I should hold off on any threading for now? I absolutely want to get into threading, but I should probably learn the basics first, I may be getting ahead of myself.
As for getting a box of blanks... do you think it's unwise of me to get that premium tool kit? Luckily, I do have a bench grinder, I would have to get a diamond wheel, though.
And I really do want to get into stainless steel, but I will be doing delrin first, I think. Maybe I'll get some cheaper HSS blanks and practice on that? Maybe I should even get aluminum... I just want to be able to use the things I make, and I know you can't really use aluminum for e-liquid contact.
At least I know which lathe I'm getting now... it all comes down to tools
Still would like the premium tool package, but I wish it came with different turning tools, but I think HSS blanks aren't too expensive either, because I'm sure I'll use all the stuff in that tool kit.
I'll definitely keep an eye out on ebay. And good call about the stone... it was just an idea I had, but no big deal.
You guys are so helpful, thanks so much!
Perhaps I should hold off on any threading for now? I absolutely want to get into threading, but I should probably learn the basics first, I may be getting ahead of myself.
As for getting a box of blanks... do you think it's unwise of me to get that premium tool kit? Luckily, I do have a bench grinder, I would have to get a diamond wheel, though.
And I really do want to get into stainless steel, but I will be doing delrin first, I think. Maybe I'll get some cheaper HSS blanks and practice on that? Maybe I should even get aluminum... I just want to be able to use the things I make, and I know you can't really use aluminum for e-liquid contact.
At least I know which lathe I'm getting now... it all comes down to tools
Still would like the premium tool package, but I wish it came with different turning tools, but I think HSS blanks aren't too expensive either, because I'm sure I'll use all the stuff in that tool kit.
I'll definitely keep an eye out on ebay. And good call about the stone... it was just an idea I had, but no big deal.
You guys are so helpful, thanks so much!
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And I really do want to get into stainless steel, but I will be doing delrin first, I think. Maybe I'll get some cheaper HSS blanks and practice on that? Maybe I should even get aluminum... I just want to be able to use the things I make, and I know you can't really use aluminum for e-liquid contact.
At least I know which lathe I'm getting now... it all comes down to tools
Still would like the premium tool package, but I wish it came with different turning tools, but I think HSS blanks aren't too expensive either, because I'm sure I'll use all the stuff in that tool kit.
...
I think no matter what Tool Package you buy, there will be some things you use a lot and like and some things you don't.
Cutting Delrin to start out is to me a Very Good Call. You're going to make some Mistakes. Turn a Handle the Wrong way. Have a Feed Lever set to the Wrong Setting. Touch the Tool Holder to the Material.
All these and More arn't huge Problems when your cutting something Soft and Inexpensive. But crashing into SS can be Tragic.
Yeah I would hold off on threading until you get the basics down...threading can make your hair stand on end in some cases like when threading into a blind hole. In most cases you cant just cut the threads in one pass...you have to make several tracing the original pass to make them deeper each pass.
I would start with Delrin and then work up to aluminum..then SS. Jumping from Delrin to SS would be like a lawn mower mechanic getting a job at a Ferrari shop...as someone said here already...SS is much less forgiving.
Dont fall in to the mistake of thinking the more and best tooling I have the better I can machine. I have seen some good machinist make excellent parts using banged up tooling that looks like they pulled it from a dumpster. Usually no matter how much stuff you have...you will usually be using a few basic (favorite) tools. Not that having nice tools is a problem!! LOL
Best thing to do before even turning the lathe on is sit down and learn to grind the tooling...learn the angles..reliefs...and so on for each material you want to machine...there is no one size fits all. Having a die grinder with some diamond bits...or a Dremel at least..is also handy for polishing the cutting edges and you can grind your own chipbreaker grooves or humps on your tools. A real must have is a 6" x 1/4" diamond finishing sticks for touch up work and maybe an Arkansas stone or two. Sometimes some metal will weld itself fast to the cutters edge...if you catch it in time you can file it off without having to regrind the tool from the damage that will ensue from continuing to use it like that. Oh yeah...you will want to have a jewelers loupe also..10x works well...because of the shiny metal its hard to see the very edges of it. I know...it just goes on and on doesnt it! Like the sign said..."Nice things cost money son...how $$nice$$ do you want it to be"?? LOL
If you have any machine shops in your area stop by and see if they will sell you some of the shorter drops they may have...a lot of times some nice material goes in the trash/recycling that they cant use in their bigger machines...or CNC's...but will be great for a small machine.
I would start with Delrin and then work up to aluminum..then SS. Jumping from Delrin to SS would be like a lawn mower mechanic getting a job at a Ferrari shop...as someone said here already...SS is much less forgiving.
Dont fall in to the mistake of thinking the more and best tooling I have the better I can machine. I have seen some good machinist make excellent parts using banged up tooling that looks like they pulled it from a dumpster. Usually no matter how much stuff you have...you will usually be using a few basic (favorite) tools. Not that having nice tools is a problem!! LOL
Best thing to do before even turning the lathe on is sit down and learn to grind the tooling...learn the angles..reliefs...and so on for each material you want to machine...there is no one size fits all. Having a die grinder with some diamond bits...or a Dremel at least..is also handy for polishing the cutting edges and you can grind your own chipbreaker grooves or humps on your tools. A real must have is a 6" x 1/4" diamond finishing sticks for touch up work and maybe an Arkansas stone or two. Sometimes some metal will weld itself fast to the cutters edge...if you catch it in time you can file it off without having to regrind the tool from the damage that will ensue from continuing to use it like that. Oh yeah...you will want to have a jewelers loupe also..10x works well...because of the shiny metal its hard to see the very edges of it. I know...it just goes on and on doesnt it! Like the sign said..."Nice things cost money son...how $$nice$$ do you want it to be"?? LOL
If you have any machine shops in your area stop by and see if they will sell you some of the shorter drops they may have...a lot of times some nice material goes in the trash/recycling that they cant use in their bigger machines...or CNC's...but will be great for a small machine.
Yeah, making threads can be somewhat Nerve Racking until you get it down.
I tell people to learn all the Little Tricks and Techniques of Turning before they attempt cutting Threads. And then do External Threads on Soft Material. Then Internal Thru Threads. Last is Internal Threads in Blind Holes.
As to a Magnifier, I just posted this about 10 minutes ago...
I wouldn't attemp putting a Radius on an Endmill or Touching up a Drill without it.
I tell people to learn all the Little Tricks and Techniques of Turning before they attempt cutting Threads. And then do External Threads on Soft Material. Then Internal Thru Threads. Last is Internal Threads in Blind Holes.
As to a Magnifier, I just posted this about 10 minutes ago...
This is SOP for me when I Take Apart, Fill or Dry Burn.
http://www.harborfreight.com/head-strap-magnifier-with-work-light-95890.html
I like it because I can Flip up the Lens if I want to go back to 1x.
I wouldn't attemp putting a Radius on an Endmill or Touching up a Drill without it.
BTW - when subver does go to cut threads for the first time. I would tell him to search the Internet for a post from someone who has used the EXACT Lathe he is using.
Doesn't matter if the thread isn't the same Form as the one he wants to cut. Just follow the procedure until he can cut that thread and then adapt it to the Thread Form he wants to do.
The concept of cutting Threads is the same on ALL machines. Feed at a given RMP Equals some Multiple of Pitch. But the way it is done and the settings for one Lathe to Another Vary Greatly.
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Good to see you nicotime. Don't see you much anymore since the E2/CE2 days in the "Big Thread".
Doesn't matter if the thread isn't the same Form as the one he wants to cut. Just follow the procedure until he can cut that thread and then adapt it to the Thread Form he wants to do.
The concept of cutting Threads is the same on ALL machines. Feed at a given RMP Equals some Multiple of Pitch. But the way it is done and the settings for one Lathe to Another Vary Greatly.
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Good to see you nicotime. Don't see you much anymore since the E2/CE2 days in the "Big Thread".
Sorry..I missed that post completely...but yeah that will work too..for some...I cant use them as my one eye is a lot worse than the other so they really mess me up.
The bad thing about threading is you just cant pause or slow the feed down and measure if you will run out of space or not...so do a lot of dry runs to see what will actually happen.
Likewise zoiDman.... I just lurk mostly now days...and I dont use "store bought" stuff anymore so I havent been experimenting or keeping up with the newer stuff. Machining has always been a passion of mine...machines and computers all in one...what could be better! So I cant help myself when I see someone is getting into it as a hobby....plus I miss it severely!
The bad thing about threading is you just cant pause or slow the feed down and measure if you will run out of space or not...so do a lot of dry runs to see what will actually happen.
Likewise zoiDman.... I just lurk mostly now days...and I dont use "store bought" stuff anymore so I havent been experimenting or keeping up with the newer stuff. Machining has always been a passion of mine...machines and computers all in one...what could be better! So I cant help myself when I see someone is getting into it as a hobby....plus I miss it severely!
Yeah, I have written enough CNC Code to Probably reach from here to Mars. And Back.
Vert Mills is more my thing. But I guess you could say that my First Love in a Machine Shop is "Turning Handles".
Anyway, Good to see ya again. nicotime.
You ought to pop into the govapes sub-forum sometime. Lots of New Designs being brought out and Developed.
G101 that!! LOL ...and I never had a program to write them for me either...well we did but I found it took longer to debug than if I copied a similar parts programs and altered them to make the new part...in most cases anyway.
Yep..I'll take a mill any day...the lathe can produce some nice stuff...but its more limited than a mill...especially if you have a 4-5 axis setup.
Thanks...I'll check it out over there when I get a chance.
Oh...and by the way subver...you do know the surface speed slows down the closer you cut to the center of the part right...so as you are cutting you have to increase the lathes RPM's!!
LOL J/K...well it does but you wont need to worry about it on your manual lathe. Thats just one of the perks with a CNC..it can be set to speed up and keep the optimal SFM.
Small local machine shops are a great resource. Take a little while and talk to the owner/machinist and you may even find yourself getting some free education on setup.tooling.etc. Hands on manual machining seems to be a dying art and some of the veterans out there with small shops are more than happy to socialize and share some good knowledge if you show interest in their skill.
Wow thanks everyone! You guys are so much help.
So I think I've got everything down.. probably will just start out with that premium tool kit... I'm still trying to find diamond wheels for my 6" Ryobi bench grinder... hopefully there are wheels i can use for this because I definitely want to get into grinding my own turning tools.
Luckily I have 2 jewelers loupe's, so that is good, glad I have some of this stuff at least
Will get a 6" x 1/4" diamond finishing stick, maybe an Arkansas stone, I'll need safety glasses, etc.
This is definitely a lot to take in, but I'm so unbelievably excited to start learning.
Oh yeah, those inserts on the turning tools - do they need to be sharpened or anything?
edit: ok I believe the bench grinder I have takes 6" wheels with a 1/2" arbor, so I found these 2 diamond wheels on ebay:
260 grit and 180 grit - what should I look for in terms of grit for making the turning tools?
So I think I've got everything down.. probably will just start out with that premium tool kit... I'm still trying to find diamond wheels for my 6" Ryobi bench grinder... hopefully there are wheels i can use for this because I definitely want to get into grinding my own turning tools.
Luckily I have 2 jewelers loupe's, so that is good, glad I have some of this stuff at least
Will get a 6" x 1/4" diamond finishing stick, maybe an Arkansas stone, I'll need safety glasses, etc.
This is definitely a lot to take in, but I'm so unbelievably excited to start learning.
Oh yeah, those inserts on the turning tools - do they need to be sharpened or anything?
edit: ok I believe the bench grinder I have takes 6" wheels with a 1/2" arbor, so I found these 2 diamond wheels on ebay:
260 grit and 180 grit - what should I look for in terms of grit for making the turning tools?
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