Looking to delve fully into Cloud Chasing, but need your help!

[EnigmaX]

Also to mention - Just noticed your battery choice. The eFest purples are actually 20a batteries with a 35a pulse.

To be safe, you'd want to build under your 20a limit, not 35a.

 

[catalinaflyer]

Noteworthy is that fact that, on a regulated mod, your resistance has (to my understanding) no effect on the amperage or even battery life. Amperage on batteries can be calculated as wattage divided by current battery voltage (which could be 8.4 volts, if using two stacked 18650's, etc).

Batteries capacity is measured in Amp Hours or a variation of such so,

a 1.0 ohm build at 50 watts is drawing 7.071 amps
a 0.1 ohm build at 50 watts is drawing 22.361 amps

So with that information the .1 ohm build is drawing over 3 times the power from the battery as the 1.0.

 

[MichiganGoat]

I'm sure it's been mentioned but Cloud Chasing is part equipment but the key is inhale/exhale technique. You got to exhale completely and then inhale as hard and fast as you can. I have all the equipment to be good but the technique is what stops me from really chucking huge thick clouds.

 

[smacksy]

I'm sure it's been mentioned but Cloud Chasing is part equipment but the key is inhale/exhale technique. You got to exhale completely and then inhale as hard and fast as you can. I have all the equipment to be good but the technique is what stops me from really chucking huge thick clouds.

I agree.. There is a learning curve involved in cloud blowing for sure..but having the right set-up is 90% ..I had to get used to the wide bore drip tip and the wide open air flow needed for me to be satisfied with my clouds..its still a learning curve for me but I'm improving all the time..lol

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[readeuler]

Batteries capacity is measured in Amp Hours or a variation of such so,

a 1.0 ohm build at 50 watts is drawing 7.071 amps
a 0.1 ohm build at 50 watts is drawing 22.361 amps

So with that information the .1 ohm build is drawing over 3 times the power from the battery as the 1.0.

Please realize I'm not at all trying to be combative, I only recently learned these things, and found it quite interesting how I had been thinking about things before. I was thinking only in terms of the atomizer side, and not the battery side, until rusirius set me straight.

From Dampmaskin's Steam Engine

Regulated mods – fixed or variable voltage or power
Regulated mods are more difficult to model. But even though they are much more complex than mechs, with some selective simplification we can safely ignore most of the complexity. So we break these mods down into two circuits and a black box. This makes our regulated mod model little more than twice as complex as our mech mod model.

The two main circuits of a regulated mod are:

The atomizer (output) side.
The battery (input) side.
And never the twain shall meet. The regulator circuit takes care of that. It can have a bunch of more or less advanced circuits in itself, and it uses a little bit of power, but for the most part we can envision it as a black box separating the battery circuit from the atty circuit.

Tread carefully – here be pitfalls

Since we are looking at two separate circuits, you can never mix numbers from both sides of the regulator in your calculations. For instance: You cannot determine the current drained from the battery by measuring the resistance of the coil and the voltage of the battery. Using the resistance from one circuit, and the voltage from a different circuit, will result in a nonsensical answer. Nor can you determine the current going through the coil by determining the current from the battery.

Output – the atomizer

On the atomizer side, the voltage is ideally whatever the user has selected, but keep in mind that some APVs promise more than they keep. If you set the voltage to 5V, are you confident that the APV actually delivers 5V? Unless you know that your APV is accurate, you might want to measure and confirm the output voltage under load.

Variable wattage devices work like variable voltage devices, for the most part. The difference is that they measure the atomizer resistance, and uses this measurement, and Ohm's law, to calculate what voltage to set in order to reach your desired power.

Likewise, knowing the output voltage and resistance, you can calculate the output current and power yourself.

Input – the battery

On the battery side, the voltage is whatever the battery has in it at the moment, just like with mech mods. The power, however, is whatever the regulator needs to pull in order to deliver the desired voltage to the atomizer at any given time. So by dividing the power by the (ever decreasing) battery voltage, we find the (ever increasing) current.

Transfer the power – getting down to it

So how can our measured resistance tell us anything about battery drain? Well, there is one way to "transfer information" from one side of the regulator to the other. The trick is simple; to paraphrase some old movie: Use the power, Luke!

The power hitting the atomizer equals the power flowing from the battery, minus the power used by the regulator circuit.

These regulator circuits typically boast an efficiency between 80–95%. In practice this means that the regulator "steals" about a tenth of the power from the battery.

Knowing this, we can use our multimeter and Ohm's law to calculate what is going on at either side of the regulator. Then we can convert it to Watts, and voila! Subtracting (or adding) the loss in the regulator circuit, we now know the power on the other side as well.

Lastly, we use Ohm's law again, break down the power to current and voltage, and that's that: We now have all the numbers we need.

Just spreading information, that's all

 

[MichiganGoat]

I agree.. There is a learning curve involved in cloud blowing for sure..but having the right set-up is 90% ..I had to get used to the wide bore drip tip and the wide open air flow needed for me to be satisfied with my clouds..its still a learning curve for me but I'm improving all the time..lol

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I'm still learning as well but my biggest mistake was spending money on lesser devices instead of just jumping into the power boxes. You can still get a good full day, non-dripping, vape with a Nautilus (or now an Atlantis) from a good box mod, BUT you can also build to chuck some clouds like this twisted build at .1 ohms that I run at 100W.

It's all about having variety.

 

[chrisKRAWLER]

If you want to join cloud comps, Nobody has mentioned that most cloud comps have rules such as "you can only use 18650 mech mods" and "builds cannot be below 0.1 ohms". Its about making a build that works with you battery. Anyone can blow a cloud with an ipv3 or another high wattage box mod. It about your build and battery and breathing techniques.

That being said, building a coil that works well on a mech and one that works well on a high wattage box mod are completely different. Start off with a box mod to get coil building down and then go to mechs.

 

[Jooooshwa]

With a box mod like the ipv3, there's no need to build so low. I currently have the sigelei 150 watt with a plume veil dual coil at 1 ohm. With this set up I can vape through the day at 30 watts. If I want to blow clouds, I can turn it up to 70 watts and make huge clouds. Like all others said, it's all about experimenting safely

 

[catalinaflyer]

Please realize I'm not at all trying to be combative, I only recently learned these things, and found it quite interesting how I had been thinking about things before. I was thinking only in terms of the atomizer side, and not the battery side, until rusirius set me straight.

Just spreading information, that's all

I have read all that many times on that site as well as variations of the same on others. Trust me I don't take what your saying as combative, quite the opposite as I am always open to learn a new way, theory or law. I'm in the business of making things that on paper should never leave the ground actually leave the ground and perform quite well while not on the ground.

So when we're talking strictly on the atomizer side of the circuit ohms law still applies and as such it requires more amperage which is the gas gauge in a battery to make the same wattage at a lower resistance. That battery gas (power) has to come from somewhere and following the theory quoted about resistance not being part of the equation on a VV/VW device then we should be able to come up with a build that produces unlimited wattage without the input of power.

I'm far from an electrical engineer but I do take electric motors and turn that energy into power using a VV/VW device also know as a speed controller. The way we determine how long a given size of battery capacity will last is to measure the amperage flowing into the motor after the VV/VW device then divide that amount of amperage into the amp hour rating of the battery. It's all governed by Ohms Law which in my limited education is just that, Law not theory.

Now with all of that useless knowledge being spewed I know (or think) that my batteries last longer in a higher resistance build at the same wattage, or at least it seems like they do but until someone comes up with software in a VV/VW device that measures actual amp hours used versus amp hours in the battery I guess it will be a topic of much discussion.

 

[Wruff]

Brandon. Do yourself a really big favor and read this excellent article about engineering a huge vapor cloud and the differences between mech and regulated devices.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ughts-about-sub-ohm-latest-vv-vw-devices.html

Do read it bro.

 

[catalinaflyer]

If you want to join cloud comps, Nobody has mentioned that most cloud comps have rules such as "you can only use 18650 mech mods" and "builds cannot be below 0.1 ohms". Its about making a build that works with you battery. Anyone can blow a cloud with an ipv3 or another high wattage box mod. It about your build and battery and breathing techniques.

That being said, building a coil that works well on a mech and one that works well on a high wattage box mod are completely different. Start off with a box mod to get coil building down and then go to mechs.

My only experience with cloud comps is my local vape shops and the rules, well the rule is whomever blows the biggest cloud as judged by the panel of judges wins. That's the rule, nothing about having to be a mechanical or coil resistance etc. I assume they assume that the people involved are knowledgeable enough to not blow their fingers off and the payoff of a 15ml bottle of juice is not worth going to extremes. It's more about getting together, completely fogging out a room, swapping building ideas and having a good time. If it were a true competition then I wouldn't be there anyway so the rules of a "real" cloud comp are beyond my knowledge.

 

[sarahhonald]

If funds aren't an issue, I would suggest a handmade US made box mod. For probably $30-$50 more you can get a box mod that is super powerful with much more safe vape. Just my opinion but anything over 50w I don't want to buy from China. And it's not a clone vs authentics reason either. They also have options for unregulated with mosfet also. Mine is a boombox 120watt with raptor 20a.

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[dykealiscious]

Hey everyone, so I've been vaping for a year now, and I now want to delve into cloud chasing and RDA's with 100% VG

BUT, I can't decide on what to get.. I've been looking at the IPV2s and the Sigelei 100w with a Plume Veil double coil, but I'm honestly not sure, I currently have the Aspire CF Sub Ohm with Aspire Atlantis tank which I think is a beast, but I want to go bigger, and not by a small step or a big step, but by a HUGE step, I want to jump full throttle into cloud chasing.

With that being said, I need help on what I should be looking for hardware wise, I've been doing months upon months upon months of research for the proper safety / care / and use of going into RDAs and battery safety, so yes, I know the safety.

LASTLY, My budget is roughly $350-375 (tax included in that budget and am not willing to go anywhere over 375) but with that budget, I want the best of the best of the best that $375 can buy, box or mech + RDA wise.

Any way anyone can help me with this?

EDIT - I'm looking for a build that will give the biggest clouds possible, as I am looking to go full force into cloud-chasing and cloud chasing competitions.

Check out rip trippers top attys for 2014. He's weird but good at reviews and he lists some really good options.

Sent from a cool but overpriced phone on TapaCrack at yo mama's house.

 

[zeronic2013]

Check out rip trippers top attys for 2014. He's weird but good at reviews and he lists some really good options.

Sent from a cool but overpriced phone on TapaCrack at yo mama's house.

x2 he's s little over the top but has good reviews.


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[Brandon Rauls]

Well I've already got the RDA I'm using, which is the Mutation X V2.

But, I saw someone talking about my battery of choice which is..
Amazon.com: 4 Efest Purple IMR 18650 2500mAh 35A 3.7v Rechargeable Flat Top Batteries: Electronics

Stating that I'd need more powerful batteries if I want to build down below a .3 or a .2 Ohm build.
Which batteries should I be going for, for the safest batteries and most powerful?

I'm also looking at buying these
http://www.amazon.com/LG-18650-2500...-2&keywords=18650+35a+battery#customerReviews

Are those true 35 Amperage batteries? Or just 35 Pulse?

IF NOT, where can I find true 35A continuous batteries? Because I am wanting to build down to .2 and .1 Ohms.

 

[smacksy]

Ohm's states that .2 ohm build pulls 21A at 4.2 v (fully charged batt) you will be fine using the 35A Efest..

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[Brandon Rauls]

Also to mention - Just noticed your battery choice. The eFest purples are actually 20a batteries with a 35a pulse.

To be safe, you'd want to build under your 20a limit, not 35a.

^ that's why I was wondering though.

 

[readeuler]

I know of no batteries with a CDR exceeding 30A. There are three batteries I can think of on the market that do have a 30A CDR,
the Sony VTC4,
Xtar something or other, and
Orbtronic SX30.

They're all kind of tall, from what I've heard. VTC5's have gone away, so I'm not including them, but I know illumn had some 4's that seemed legitimate, not long ago. They're pretty uncommon, so I wouldn't count on them. A few no-name companies claim to have 30A+ batteries (38A Imren to name one) but I'm suspicious.

All batteries labeled 35A are suspected HE2's with a 20A CDR.

 

[Brandon Rauls]

Hm, so with that being said... would I be fine vaping at .2 Ohms on my eFest batteries? Link above in a previous comment on Page 6.
Or do I need to buy something different? Possible link that I could go straight to?

 

[smacksy]

I've been using the 35A Efest for the last 3mos firing my .15 ohm builds with no issues whatsoever.. Those builds pull 28A and the these batts handle it just fine....

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