Yeah what he said!If it were me, I would look around for Sony vtc4's. I have a hand full and I haven't ever had any problems with them.
BUT.... the .1 ohm build.... NO WAY!! Not on any battery. That's 42 amps. Nope.. not gonna do it. Neither should you![]()
.2 and .1 is pretty low! At the moment the VTC5 is the best choice for low ohm builds. They are hard to find right now
Here's a link XTAR 18650 2600mAh 30A VTC5 Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery - Flat Top
I would seriously consider doing the math on your builds before trying .2 and .1 builds, and stay with in a safe range for your batteries capability. like 20% less than the continuous amp rating![]()
Correct but they can handle the builds the OP requested. 20r has the lowest internal resistance on the market iirc. All the batteries I listed can with ease.
Wow, that's a great price! Do they hold up to the Sony VTC5s?
Sure they are. There just not 30 amps a AW IMR 1600mAh is safe to but it to is not 30 amps. The OP is talking low ohm builds so the most powerful battery is his best choice![]()
.2 and .1 is pretty low! At the moment the VTC5 is the best choice for low ohm builds. They are hard to find right now
Here's a link XTAR 18650 2600mAh 30A VTC5 Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery - Flat Top
I would seriously consider doing the math on your builds before trying .2 and .1 builds, and stay with in a safe range for your batteries capability. like 20% less than the continuous amp rating![]()
None of those batteries can handle the .1 or .2 the OP mentioned safely.
.2 = 21a
.1 = 42a
Samsung 20r manufacturer rated CRD 20a, independently tested 22a cdr,
Samsung 24r manufacture rated 25a CDR, independent tests 22a cdr.
Most agree the two above are the same battery with the 24r having an inflated cdr rating for marketing.
Samsung 25r manufacturer rated CDR 20a, independent tests 20a cdr
LG he2 manufacture rated CDR 20a, independent tests 20a cdr.
Even the highly touted vtc5 will not pass an independent 30 amp CDR test without using a cooling source.
There is no safe way to exceed any battery's CDR, mentioning such on a public forum could be dangerous to others that don't have the experience & necessary accurate equipment to use a build that nears or equals the CDR, much less exceed it.
It is all fun and games till someone gets their eye put out.
Well, multiple batteries is his best choice ...
Little confused here. So I've got a couple vtc5s, that I got from Japan, and they look real, although I have some doubts. Im wondering which battery is Easy to get, and safe for my cloud chase builds. Sometimes I feel a desire to cloud chase. I wanna know What I should go with.
Furthermore, I bought my bro a mech mod for Xmas, and I am going to teach him a bit about building. I want to ensure his safety, for obvious reasons. I want a difinitive answer. Read alot about vtc5s, but, not helpful since they are hard to get. Preferably something that isn't faked alot yet, but if That's not doable, so be it, at least something where fakes are easily identified.
Hoping, if safe to go as low as 0.2 myself
Anyways.... the 0.1 was a Maybe.... but 0.2 is safe. I don't ever pull over 3-4 seconds..... so.more of a pulse vaper Anyways. Yea, granted after seeing the 0.1 amp draw, I didn't do the math correctly on that one. But 21 amp pulse on a 20 amp continuous battery doesn't seem all that dangerous to me
When a manufacturer rates their batteries, their CDR is for the life of their product, not just for a brand new one. Think about that when your battery has been recharged 100 times.
.2 and .1 is pretty low! At the moment the VTC5 is the best choice for low ohm builds. They are hard to find right now
Here's a link XTAR 18650 2600mAh 30A VTC5 Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery - Flat Top