Lowest my ohms should be reading..

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RLake1978

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I've been a vaper for 2yrs. Always built my own coils for my drippers on a regulated device. I just got my first mech mod.. the pulse 24 with the Pulse squank box. I bought an Ijoy 20700 5 Leg to go with it. Building my coils I've not built lower than .19 and to be honest the clouds just aren't there. I want to be safe but this sucks. So.. I would love to know what is the lowest in ohms I can build my coils and still be safe. I've done the calculators and they all say .2 and than other vapors are building as low as .1-.15ohms. I just need a real answer. What's the lowest build I should use?
 
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stols001

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Hi, welcome to ECF, you will probably get more informed answers if you post the question in the mod forum-- you can CLICK on the BOLD text as Letitica was providing the link to you. Links are green and bold, and that will take you to that part of the forum.

Welcome, I'm sure you'll quickly find your way around. :)

Anna
 
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Letitia

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I 've never written in a forum and have no idea how to get to a specific area. Does it really matter as long as someone can answer my questions?
Guess if it matters depends on how much you want to learn. In upper left corner press the forums button and scroll until you see the forum you want. There will a drop down for sub forums.
 

Topwater Elvis

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I'm using 22 gauge kanthal 2 coils. Each with 7 wraps using a size 30. What would you suggest for a great build?

Each person might use a completely different method to get what they're looking for.

I'd ditch the 22ga & use a simple twisted 28ga single 2.5 -3mm ID .6Ω - .7ish Ω & work down from there.
Or, if you just have to use dual 26 - 28 ga target resistance 1.22Ω - 1.3Ω each, ID whatever works best for your wicking methods.
Faster ramp up & warmer vape than the 22ga.

Just me, 22ga dual coil is just too much metal to heat properly with a single cell mech.
 

RLake1978

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Nov 29, 2017
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Each person might use a completely different method to get what they're looking for.

I'd ditch the 22ga & use a simple twisted 28ga single 2.5 -3mm ID .6Ω - .7ish Ω & work down from there.
Or, if you just have to use dual 26 - 28 ga target resistance 1.22Ω - 1.3Ω each, ID whatever works best for your wicking methods.
Faster ramp up & warmer vape than the 22ga.

Just me, 22ga dual coil is just too much metal to heat properly with a single cell mech.
Thank you. I appreciate your input.
 

Baditude

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I'm using 22 gauge kanthal 2 coils. Each with 7 wraps using a size 30. What would you suggestfor a great build?
22 gauge is pretty thick wire, resulting in a lot of MASS. It takes a lot of voltage to fire up a coil with that much mass, and it takes longer to heat up that coil, too. It really drains a battery FAST.

I would suggest to use a thinner gauge wire, probably 26 gauge. Build a either a SIMPLE SINGLE coil of 0.3 ohm or two simple coils at 0.6 ohm (to end up with 0.3 ohm). K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid). This will keep you within the continuous discharge rate of any 20 or 30 amp battery (so you're "safer") and you'll have less coil mass for a faster ramp up time. You should still get plenty of cloud production. And with less drain on the battery, they'll last longer per charge.

If you're really only concerned about humongous cloud production, go back to a high wattage REGULATED two or three battery mod.

BTW, there is no safe build under 0.3 ohm with a single battery mechanical mod, in my humble opinion.
 
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Topwater Elvis

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If you're using a 30a CDR cell like the OP is, tested by mooch as such, sure there are safe builds under .3Ω.
4.2v / .2 = 21a
4.2v / .15 = 28a

But, there is no reason to go that low looking for cloudz or heat, use an efficient build, know what you're doing & why.
Low resistance does not equal cloudz or even a half decent vape.
 

Canadian_Vaper

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Mooch has these rated at 30A CDR, he also has them listed as 40A MVA or Max Vaping Amps limited by temperature so as long as they don't overheat you can go above that 30A limit a bit.

From my personal experience having used single cell mech's and wanting the amount of vapor that you seem to be with the wire you're using it doesn't even start to get good until you go down to .18, it gets way better around .16, personally I don't go below .14 on a unregulated device using LG HB6's which have similar stats to the ijoy you're using but only half the mah.
 

RLake1978

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I'm not looking for just huge clouds. I'm looking for a good flavor, some density to my clouds and just overall to learn how to do this properly and safely.

I have plenty of regulated devices. I wanted to try a squank box and a much box at that. So I've read and watched videos and everyone has a different opinion. So. I'm gonna try some of the suggestions I've received and find what suits me best.
 

Canadian_Vaper

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I'm not looking for just huge clouds. I'm looking for a good flavor, some density to my clouds and just overall to learn how to do this properly and safely.

I have plenty of regulated devices. I wanted to try a squank box and a much box at that. So I've read and watched videos and everyone has a different opinion. So. I'm gonna try some of the suggestions I've received and find what suits me best.
I'd recommend .16 it should be right in the middle somewhere then.
 

Baditude

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I want to be safe but this sucks. So.. I would love to know what is the lowest in ohms I can build my coils and still be safe. I've done the calculators and they all say .2 and than other vapors are building as low as .1-.15ohms.
Although I am an advocate for safety, I’d disagree that there is no safe build under 0.3 ohms. I am all for headroom on a battery, but that, in my opinion of course, is a tad excessive. On a 30a battery you can build lower than that safety.
I'm not looking for just huge clouds. I'm looking for a good flavor, some density to my clouds and just overall to learn how to do this properly and safely.
Everyone is free to set their own safety parameters, and I can only say what mine are.

I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. With a 30A battery that would be 15A. The Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .2 ohm build is as low as I would want to use with a 30A battery.

The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 30A battery may only be a 15A battery.

Something that has not been discussed here is the accuracy of our ohm readers. In the recent past I worked in a vape shop. I've seen differences of readings of 0.6 ohm on simple $10 box ohm readers, voltage meters on regulated mods, and $2000 Fluke digital multimeters (which should be recalibrated on a yearly basis to maintain their high accuracy). And in this post we are discussing coil resistances in the tenths/hundreths of an ohm. Are we really discussing safety here?
 
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sonicbomb

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Single battery mechs are many things, but the best platform for high wattage vaping they are not.
Firstly theres only so much power you can safely squeeze from a single battery. Secondly high current systems are very inefficient and that inefficiency increases exponentially the more current there is. The battery will sag and the mod will drop even more voltage.
In my opinion a dual battery series mech is the way to go. If an extra engine in a car cost five bucks, you would put in another engine, you wouldn't thrash the one engine into oblivion.

I would ditch the 20G as it's also horribly inefficient. Go with some 24G SS or some parallel or twisted 26G or 28G SS.
As already mentioned performance and flavour has as much to do with excellent wicking qnd coil placement as it does wattage.
And a spotlessly clean mech. Spotless...
 
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