Not a problem like I said I am cool with that, but you will never see me say go ahead and do it without informing you of the possible consequences. IMO that would be totally irresponsible and we all know there is far to many myths that circulate.
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Not a problem like I said I am cool with that, but you will never see me say go ahead and do it without informing you of the possible consequences. IMO that would be totally irresponsible and we all know there is far to many myths that circulate.
I've been using LR510 on my ego since I started my first battery still works great. I'm about to try LR306 once they come in the mail
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Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
Ok.....I don't know enough to ask the question without sounding dumb! I'm vaping LR on a 1100 Riva, am I pushing the limits on my little grimlin moffet mouse thingy?
It depends on how "L" the LR is. I didn't go below 2 ohms when using Riva, but that was from units late last year and early this year, which had 3.2 - 3.4 volt regulated output. That meant I was only drawing a max of about 1.7 amps, something I was quite comfortable with.
With a regulated output I'd have been happy going to about 1.8A, which would still keep it a bit under 2A draw, but I found 1.8 cartos ran a bit hot for my taste, and there can be resistance change over time (including a decrease).
With newer Rivas, the ones that may output up in the 3.8V or so zone fresh off the charger, I would personally tend to limit at 2 ohms; if you choose to use less than 2 ohms or so, just be prepared for the possibility of earlier failure than otherwise.
I have a vaping budget that I stay within. I allow $0.8/day towards new/replacement hardware, part of the $2/day total (coming off a PAD in NYS, where prices run about $9.50/pack, $2/day for vaping is a nice savings). On that budget if a battery lasts two weeks I could buy another, still be in budget. If I was still using Riva gear, and really, really, liked 1.6 ohms, I'd keep doing it, just recognize that stuff may tend to fail early (and not try to get the vendors to warranty when I push outside of spec).
With a regulated output I'd have been happy going to about 1.8A, which would still keep it a bit under 2A draw, but I found 1.8 cartos ran a bit hot for my taste, and there can be resistance change over time (including a decrease).
With newer Rivas, the ones that may output up in the 3.8V or so zone fresh off the charger, I would personally tend to limit at 2 ohms; if you choose to use less than 2 ohms or so, just be prepared for the possibility of earlier failure than otherwise.
I have a vaping budget that I stay within. I allow $0.8/day towards new/replacement hardware, part of the $2/day total (coming off a PAD in NYS, where prices run about $9.50/pack, $2/day for vaping is a nice savings). On that budget if a battery lasts two weeks I could buy another, still be in budget. If I was still using Riva gear, and really, really, liked 1.6 ohms, I'd keep doing it, just recognize that stuff may tend to fail early (and not try to get the vendors to warranty when I push outside of spec).
You need experience no pain when correcting me, Switched. After all I invited it. I do see myself as vaping-savvy (I use two v's;-)), but it is as a non-technical encyclopediaist*.
* 'Encyclopediaist': A fancy, pretentious term (coined by Asimov?) meaning having a little bit of knowledge about a lot of things.
I'm relieved that you didn't correct my explanation of mosfet. I know that it is not one usually found in technical journals.And I agree with you about RIMP's position on this (although not on your gender assignment): Vapers should be aware of potential risks (and rewards). Since we are all adults here, we can make our own decisions on how to balance them. C'est la vie!
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The Rivas are regulated (modulated) closer to 3.7 volts. Thus, using 2.0 ohm is easier on these than on an eGo unit.
I also want to make a note about design changes, and different manufacturers. So who knows how many amps the switch is on a particular device, without the manufacturer's info? IDK where to find it either. I also can't identify minor design changes/revisions in a particular model so IDK.
I agree with RIMP, SHE is correct. Take your chances if you wish. I'd just use 2.0 ohms and be happy....
Now that I do not understand.
I'm pretty sure that Amps = Volts / Ohms. With 2.0 ohms on a 3.2V eGo, the amps = 3.2 / 2.0 = 1.6 amps (not bad). With the same 2.0 ohms on 3.7V: 3.7 / 2.0 = 1.85 amps (not as good). The lower the amps current, the better (assuming that we are getting a sufficient intense vaping experience aka watts). Right?
I thought I got it, now Im lost too. If you have a skinny batt, ie. lower voltage, wouldnt it be easier on the battery, meaning lower amp?
Amp is the current drawn from the battery by the load (atty). The battery is just a reservoir..
I also had concerns about stressing out batteries when I was looking for a starter kit.
After a great deal of reading (this forum and many others) and researching as best as I could on what was available currently I chose the following.
An eGo-T kit that had 2 1000mAh batteries and came with 2 regular and 3 LR atties, I also got a pass-thru with 1000mAh internal battery.
My thinking is that if the manufacture is confidant enough to include 3 LR atties in a kit with 1000mAh batteries, then the stress load is most likely within tolerances.
After only a month and a ½ without failures I can't really address long term issues but I think I made the right desission (for me anyways).
Vape on brothers
After a great deal of reading (this forum and many others) and researching as best as I could on what was available currently I chose the following.
An eGo-T kit that had 2 1000mAh batteries and came with 2 regular and 3 LR atties, I also got a pass-thru with 1000mAh internal battery.
My thinking is that if the manufacture is confidant enough to include 3 LR atties in a kit with 1000mAh batteries, then the stress load is most likely within tolerances.
After only a month and a ½ without failures I can't really address long term issues but I think I made the right desission (for me anyways).
Vape on brothers
Now that I do not understand.
I'm pretty sure that Amps = Volts / Ohms. With 2.0 ohms on a 3.2V eGo, the amps = 3.2 / 2.0 = 1.6 amps (not bad). With the same 2.0 ohms on 3.7V: 3.7 / 2.0 = 1.85 amps (not as good). The lower the amps current, the better (assuming that we are getting a sufficient intense vaping experience aka watts). Right?
Yeah.....well... poor wording on my part. Should have said "Using 2.0 ohms is more satisfying on these than the ...."
In other words.. using the 2.0 ohm atty, and staying under your stated 2.0 amps for the switch, it's more satisfying on the Riva since it is modulated to a higher average voltage (works better with a 2.0 ohm atty/carto).
As far as the switch is concerned... IDK... 2.0 ohms is prolly OK for both units (best guess).
As far as amps go... assuming that the power source supplies enough amps, it's just the result of the atty resistance and the voltage... per your equation above. It's not better or worse per se. You do have to account for the heat of the circuitry no matter how you slice it (volts x amps = watts).
So an eGo would be stressed less than a Riva at the same 2.0 ohms... but both could be within spec if you are correct about the 2.0 amp switch. OTOH..... an eGo unit with a 1.5 ohm LR atty would pull 2.13333 amps. Riva (assuming 3.6 volts... IDK) is 2.4 amps.
It really comes down to what they are designed for. And I'm afraid I don't have the answers on that.
Sorry for the bad wording.
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Now just for fun... a LiIon battery is 3.7 volts (3.6/3.7 whatever) regardless of size. lol. The size determines the amps mostly (really the total storage... mAh... too). But bigger battery = more amps ability.
But a tiny battery in a 510 is 3.7 volts (the actual battery, not the device which is really modulated). So is a big 18650.
The little one won't be able to supply enough amps to fire a LR atty, so voltage suffers and drops out.
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I've got to update my listings .. The disclaimer, although a bit dated is still somewhat accurate.. What used to happen, when the first LR atties came out at 1.7 ohms was that every once in a while one would come in at 1 ohm or less and this was right about the time the eGo's came out.. The 1 ohm atties were high enough resistance to not trip the short circuit protection of the mosfet in the eGo batteries but it was low enough to take out the mosfet with a little poof of smoke
After getting some complaints of 'your atomizer took out my eGo batteries', the policy was born.. But the out of date part is that atties/cartos are much better in quality than the original lr's and the eGo and clones are much better at handling a bad LR atty or carto than they used to be BUT not all batteries are created equal and a LR atty that is too low in resistance still has a good chance of taking out any mosfet driven battery..
Dual coils, not so much because if one coils goes, the other is still at 3.2 ohms. The chance of a short or low resistance on a dual coil is still possible but much less likely..
hoog
.. The disclaimer, although a bit dated is still somewhat accurate.. What used to happen, when the first LR atties came out at 1.7 ohms was that every once in a while one would come in at 1 ohm or less and this was right about the time the eGo's came out.. The 1 ohm atties were high enough resistance to not trip the short circuit protection of the mosfet in the eGo batteries but it was low enough to take out the mosfet with a little poof of smoke After getting some complaints of 'your atomizer took out my eGo batteries', the policy was born.. But the out of date part is that atties/cartos are much better in quality than the original lr's and the eGo and clones are much better at handling a bad LR atty or carto than they used to be BUT not all batteries are created equal and a LR atty that is too low in resistance still has a good chance of taking out any mosfet driven battery..
Dual coils, not so much because if one coils goes, the other is still at 3.2 ohms. The chance of a short or low resistance on a dual coil is still possible but much less likely..
hoog
Thanks hoog. I suspected a design change... since posters have mostly quit complaining about killed units... so that's good to know. Good point on DCs although the 1.6 DCs are a bit more gentle on em than the 1.5 LRs (by a measly .1 ohms). My guess is that the 1.5's could still kill a 1st gen eGo unit... but meh. If the atty/carto quality is better... and the devices are more robust... I'm giving up on this whole issue and calling it "historical" with occasional bad atties being an issue. The funny thing is that with a Riva, for example, I think that 1.5 ohms is a bit too low anyway..... but that's just IMO. lol.
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Been using LR attys for a few weeks now with 0 problems other then my battery drains faster.
For the record using a Ego T w/ white led and 5 press cutoff batteries... Still don't get why all their products, and other brands too, don't put model numbers stamped into the units.
For the record using a Ego T w/ white led and 5 press cutoff batteries... Still don't get why all their products, and other brands too, don't put model numbers stamped into the units.
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Nah, I get the picture. Its like driving a sports car over speed limit. Might be worth it, but there are risks involved. Bottom line... Its your choice.
Helped me see that the battery is not going to explode in my face or something. Just might have a premature death!
There's one more thing I haven't seen mentioned: timing. Read on. We've seen that the MOSFET is a type of transistor, a current valve. It lets the current go through when a signal is applied to the control point, and that happens when you push the button. The little switch itself would burn up if they passed the current through it, so they use the transistor as a stronger valve. The transistor itself is minuscule, and is mounted on some sort of heat dissipator called a "heat sink". As the current flows, the transistor heats up, and the heat has to go somewhere fast enough. If not, the transistor reaches a critical temperature and fries.
Another timing factor is that when any coil is powered, it draws more current briefly and then less. The resistance we measure is the cold resistance. If the coil gets hot enough, that resistance might stretch significantly after say a quarter second. During the initial current surge, the transistor can pop if it heats up faster than heat can be absorbed by the surroundings. Usually the transistor package itself is a good enough heat sink to absorb a short surge, and what matters more is what happens during the seconds you are holding the switch. The rating on a MOSFET transistor is normally listed two ways: max allowed surge current and max steady state current. These are just two different ways of talking about overheating. So the calculations we did based on cold resistance and a max allowed steady state current for the MOSFET transistor are not very meaningful. I don't know what type of MOSFET they use, and it may even vary from batch to batch. And atomizer/carto coils may vary in how much their resistance changes as they heat up.
But the longer you hold the switch, the more heat is building up, and unless the design is very effective at pulling the heat away, at some point the transistor will likely overheat. An automatic battery has air flowing through the switch section, so it could be designed to direct some of that airflow to cool the transistor. But we can see that there's no simple rule as to how much current (how low a carto resistance) is OK. The same MOSFET transistor might handle 3 amps fine for hours if it's mounted on aluminum with air blowing past it, and might fail after 5 seconds at 1.5 amps if the heat has nowhere to go. It depends on the build of the transistor, how it's mounted, and the (changing?) resistance of the coil.
But here's a practical conclusion. Don't hold the switch down too long, and your chances of frying the battery switch circuit will be reduced. If you keep the on-cycle short the battery itself will also thank you, as it has its own limits, that are even more complicated. I've fried a couple of generic eGo batteries with eGo Mega Atomizers, and it was while I was holding the switch (doh!) that one went "pop", and the other just stopped working. A third battery, a Joye 650 eGo battery, lost its MOSFET when a T-Atomizer suddenly became quite low-resistance, so that was unavoidable. If you can't afford experimenting with eGo batteries, use cartos/attys with a cold resistance over 2.5 ohms, and never hold the switch down longer than you have to. If you use say dual coil megas at 1.6 ohms, you might want to pulse it one second on, one second off. That's practical when the carto delivers faster than a single coil. And you can explain to spouse why it might be time for a pretty mod with a huge battery.
Another timing factor is that when any coil is powered, it draws more current briefly and then less. The resistance we measure is the cold resistance. If the coil gets hot enough, that resistance might stretch significantly after say a quarter second. During the initial current surge, the transistor can pop if it heats up faster than heat can be absorbed by the surroundings. Usually the transistor package itself is a good enough heat sink to absorb a short surge, and what matters more is what happens during the seconds you are holding the switch. The rating on a MOSFET transistor is normally listed two ways: max allowed surge current and max steady state current. These are just two different ways of talking about overheating. So the calculations we did based on cold resistance and a max allowed steady state current for the MOSFET transistor are not very meaningful. I don't know what type of MOSFET they use, and it may even vary from batch to batch. And atomizer/carto coils may vary in how much their resistance changes as they heat up.
But the longer you hold the switch, the more heat is building up, and unless the design is very effective at pulling the heat away, at some point the transistor will likely overheat. An automatic battery has air flowing through the switch section, so it could be designed to direct some of that airflow to cool the transistor. But we can see that there's no simple rule as to how much current (how low a carto resistance) is OK. The same MOSFET transistor might handle 3 amps fine for hours if it's mounted on aluminum with air blowing past it, and might fail after 5 seconds at 1.5 amps if the heat has nowhere to go. It depends on the build of the transistor, how it's mounted, and the (changing?) resistance of the coil.
But here's a practical conclusion. Don't hold the switch down too long, and your chances of frying the battery switch circuit will be reduced. If you keep the on-cycle short the battery itself will also thank you, as it has its own limits, that are even more complicated. I've fried a couple of generic eGo batteries with eGo Mega Atomizers, and it was while I was holding the switch (doh!) that one went "pop", and the other just stopped working. A third battery, a Joye 650 eGo battery, lost its MOSFET when a T-Atomizer suddenly became quite low-resistance, so that was unavoidable. If you can't afford experimenting with eGo batteries, use cartos/attys with a cold resistance over 2.5 ohms, and never hold the switch down longer than you have to. If you use say dual coil megas at 1.6 ohms, you might want to pulse it one second on, one second off. That's practical when the carto delivers faster than a single coil. And you can explain to spouse why it might be time for a pretty mod with a huge battery.
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... and the mod is also going to use a (MOSFET) transistor to turn on the power, so then it's a matter of how well the mod's switching circuit is designed, how beefy the MOSFET and how well the circuit dissipates heat, even if the battery itself is able to handle more.
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