Lush Mods, Drip Tips and more!

[tiburonfirst]

much better, dj!

now you know i'm not a squonker and my tibs will probably always keep the finish added by bap so this is just curiosity
how do you sell your paint jobs? being familiar with the process because you did explain the process, there really is no way to duplicate any of the above examples. all are one of a kind and had to pass your muster
but i'm sure people interested in your work would like to know more of what they can expect

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Thanks Miss Tibs, and one of these days I am going to get you over to the dark side!

But yes, every paint job is completely unique and couldn't duplicate if I tried. I start the prints with a light sand to ensure finish immediately followed by an acetone wash and brush. This removes any powder residue which maybe left from the print process or the sand. Then I use an automotive grade primer/sealer, color coordinated with the final theme. After drying then I use one of several processes to create some of the unique looks. From swirling to speckling, sponging to brushing, each creates a unique pattern and building layers for a truly interesting finish. I am trying to get better with taking pictures (Gdeal has been mentoring me in photography...so blame him if I suck worse with pictures....LoL). But most of the time, these look 100x better in real life, the colors look to artificial with a camera to me. Anyway, once the paint theme is complete, I seal with many layers of poly. A min off 5 is about the lowest I will go. I keep adding until i am done scrutinizing it. Then cures out for a day to handle. FYI it takes up to a week for poly to completely cure out, during which time it off gasses and some people smell this. But set it aside for a few days and soon it will be totally cured. You can use before this if it doesn't bother you.

For anything wood I only use CA (superglue or Cyanoacrylate). It completely seals the wood and once cured it is totally impervious to most chemicals. Plus it fully cures out in under a half hour. Been considering using this process on some of my paint jobs as well, but that falls under experimental and time for experimental is limited.

But the only type paint jobs I will not tackle is graphic art. I stated in the beginning, when I started painting, I am no artist and can hardly draw a stick figure....LOL. I have had limited success with stencils. Not really my thing. But if you have a pattern laid out in a stencil, I am more than willing to try.

Pricing is in the first post. Trying to keep it to one post.

 

[tiburonfirst]

ah, then maybe the thing to do would be to post one or two mods on spec for sale here? that's the way the drippy tip people handle their sales and i believe it has worked well for them.
after all, you turned vendor to sell, no?

 

[inspects]

You're definitely the Gdeal dna 40 man......

Love these mods......!!!

Perform flawlessly....

 

[mackman]

Speaking of paint jobs, here's one Drunk did for me. Pic doesn't show the amazing colors in it.
Besides his paint skills his mods are assembled meticulously. Fit and finish is perfect and the soldering/connections make for a hard hitting mod with zero problems.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Just for information, I have 5 GDNA V4.3 shells ready to build and I will do so with whatever custom paint scheme/colors you like. I typically stay too busy just to make them up ahead time, plus folks usually want custom to their tastes and not just what I make up for my own likes. So will most likely just get the extra prints primed and internals soldered, so all i need to do it paint it and finish it, so it can be sent out as fast as possible. I do not keep Peko prints in stock, as most people build those themselves. But I do offer the hand hammered solid copper connection version for $165 custom painted.

 

[DPLongo22]

Great stuff, DJ.

 

[BlueSnake]

Just for information, I have 5 GDNA V4.3 shells ready to build and I will do so with whatever custom paint scheme/colors you like. I typically stay too busy just to make them up ahead time, plus folks usually want custom to their tastes and not just what I make up for my own likes. So will most likely just get the extra prints primed and internals soldered, so all i need to do it paint it and finish it, so it can be sent out as fast as possible. I do not keep Peko prints in stock, as most people build those themselves. But I do offer the hand hammered solid copper connection version for $165 custom painted.

Do you offer a service to retrofit Pekos with the solid copper connection?

 

[dhaiken]

Kudos to you sir!
Great start to a great thread.

 

[tiburonfirst]

everybody must be sleeping in!

 

[artv61]

No,working on pool

 

[tiburonfirst]

No,working on pool

hmpf! where are your priorities?

 

[artv61]

Vaping some cinn danish in my peko 26650 while doing it though

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Do you offer a service to retrofit Pekos with the solid copper connection?

Yup. I change out those little terminal tabs, threaded rods, tiny nuts and all to solid copper. I hand hammer and form the copper into the exact shapes, then anneal the copper back to very soft again so it stays pliable. Then I solder the ends closed, solder it to the fire switch screw and 510 pos. I charge $25 plus return ship of $5.25 either cash with mod or f & f paypal. It is very time consuming forming the copper and usually takes me over an hour. But cool part is you won't have to ever take anything apart again for cleaning and no chance of oxidation inside connections in the current path since they are now soldered.

But I am thinking of changing the single solid copper bar running for switch to 510 with doubled 18g highly flexible silicone insulated stranded wire. This is a technique Rossum come with using a single wire, and Gdeal suggested I try it the other week and use two conductors to increase current max. The solid works great, after annealing it is soft and after months of use in mine, still very pliable, but wonder over the years if it will harden up and be hard to push the button. So I will offer either way to those who wish.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Just have an update on drip tips. Rossum was using one of my new premade core drip tips and placed it on a brass nuppin. D'oh, I was not thinking about the exposed SS flange on these premade cores. Anyway, it's no sweat for me to turn it right off with my lath and make it only wood exposed. Hopefully I can updated my first post with this too.

 

[Rossum]

Three DTs made by D_J:

 

[Katdarling]

So KEWL! Where d'ya get those flesh colored bottles?

 

[Nautilusfan]

Three DTs made by D_J:

DT on the right. Material and bore size?

 

[ThreeDJ16]

DT on the right. Material and bore size?

African Ebony wood. Can't remember right now for sure, but believe that is about 15mm long with a 4.5mm bore, or there about.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Placeholder for more info tomorrow....too tired.