Lush Mods, Drip Tips and more!
- Thread starter ThreeDJ16
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Unfortunately I am not really great at pics either. Only way I can describe my new Peko Plus is looking into a deep pool of aqua blue water and seeing the layers of black and metallic brass floating by about mid way down. The CA has created a depth I have never before seen. I took this particular mod down to 12k grit which is mirror finish. Normally I prefer a satin finish, even on my CA, but this patina just begged for the mirror finish. Only wish I could capture in pics, even a touch of the perceived depth.
Also, here a curly maple burl drip tip, soon to be headed to a snake in Columbia, SC......LOL. Damn it's gonna be hard taking it off my peko plus. Maybe I should just keep it? LOL.
More pics on photobucket, just click on any pic.
Also, here a curly maple burl drip tip, soon to be headed to a snake in Columbia, SC......LOL. Damn it's gonna be hard taking it off my peko plus. Maybe I should just keep it? LOL.
More pics on photobucket, just click on any pic.
The Peko's OK, but WOW that drip tip is awesome. 
I am really liking the CA for finishing mods. Only hitch, it's a ton of extra hand sanding. I think the only way I am going to be able to viably offer this on my mods is an upgrade finish. It's actually well over an hour extra work (closer to two), but I just don't want my prices off the charts, but think I am going to have to charge an extra $25 for a CA finish over the normal poly as if you don't spend the time hand sanding the finish, the CA would look horrible. Poly is just spray or brush and go. Usually 5 layers of poly are applied to my mods. Because of how delicate some of the paint detail is, I almost always have to spray two layers of poly over it before I do anything. This affixes the detail and gives it protection. From there I either continue with poly, either spray or brush depending on weather or paint them, or I apply CA. So yes, even with the CA, the first two layers over the paint is still poly, this protects just the same and also keeps the paint safe from burning through the CA while sanding. CA requires sanding every two coats to level out any surface unevenness. I do 3 sets of 2 layers with CA over the 2 layers of poly. The paint itself is already many layers; a base seal/primer, then however many layers to complete the theme, easily 3 or 4 more. So you can see just how much paint and time I have invested in these themes. It isn't a fast process, it has to be methodical to ensure adhesion and not burning away any delicate details. This new CA process should in theory be the strongest finish you could have without some form of heated process. I hate having to charge more for it, but that is too much time for me to spend without some form of compensation. Trust me, none of this modding stuff pays well. If it were about money, I could work one shift of OT and make more than two weeks worth of modding. But I am enjoying the modding for now and doing this because so many others cannot, and this gives them a way of getting their hands on these mods.
Anyway....whew...freakn short story or something.
Anyway....whew...freakn short story or something.
Forgot to mention a few things about the Peko Plus. The Peko Plus has some small tweaks. First and most noticeable, there is no ring. It is now made into the top cap. The walls of the mod are also thicker, if memory serves, almost a mm thicker. So it feels much stronger without adding a lot of heft. Next, the switch screw hole is a little larger (I use a large, flat head screw for the switch and it needed a little more wiggle room). Lastly the channel from the 510 to the switch is larger to account for the large wire I am using in there. I think the negative and positive polarity indicators were already on the mod, as I have them on older models. Not really needed, but the switch is designed to work with the flat negative end of the battery. So just a few changes, but I am well pleased with the new model. I will offer complete custom painted Peko Plus models, but I just don't keep them on hand since they are simple enough anyone can build. But the model I sell is all copper and all joints are soldered, so you will never need to take anything apart to clean up connections. I sell them for $165 plus shipping, ready to go and custom painted, but I have to order them. If there ever was more call for them I would stock them.
Hey Miss Tibbs, all those original pics are in my photobucket. If you click any pic to take you there, go to my main library, I think the folder DNA30 mods has the very first TIBS mods in it.we really should go looking for those old pics that started all this
So yes, you were my first....and best....LOL.
when vz stops giving me headaches i will stroll down memory lane!
and bring my favorite over here people are always looking for inspiration and if they are like me they need to see pics!
that way they can explain exactly what they want when they order!
and bring my favorite over here
people are always looking for inspiration and if they are like me they need to see pics! that way they can explain exactly what they want when they order!
It's all in the plans. Will try to bring all my paint samples to a thread here, along with having a price post and some information posts. Will keep it all on a separate locked thread, so it will be a reference thread. Just really having time issues now.
Just FYI, Friday July 31, I will be having wrist surgery on my left wrist. So really going to slow me down for a few weeks. Going to push out as much as I can before then. I should still be able to work, just not sure how much I will be able to use my left hand for a little while. They usually make me wear a stupid hard brace for a while and it's really hard to work with that thing on.
Also starting a new position at work. Naturally where I work, can't talk too much about it on an open forum. But moving to a high security area starting tomorrow and absolutely no cell phones or similar electronic devices are allowed. So pretty much means I have zero access to customers, forum, personal email or the outside world until after work hours. Sucks, but it is what it is.
Just FYI, Friday July 31, I will be having wrist surgery on my left wrist. So really going to slow me down for a few weeks. Going to push out as much as I can before then. I should still be able to work, just not sure how much I will be able to use my left hand for a little while. They usually make me wear a stupid hard brace for a while and it's really hard to work with that thing on.
Also starting a new position at work. Naturally where I work, can't talk too much about it on an open forum. But moving to a high security area starting tomorrow and absolutely no cell phones or similar electronic devices are allowed. So pretty much means I have zero access to customers, forum, personal email or the outside world until after work hours. Sucks, but it is what it is.
it'll all work out, dj! we'll keep the thread moving while you're at work
Thx. But just found out at least 3 months training. ...yeah...and where i can have my phone and get coverage. ..lol.
Jeeeeez, I hope at least one of your body parts still works
Unlike yourself, quite a few still work...
So for those people waiting on matching drip tips from the latest round of dibi's, heard last night I may have the wood by this weekend. Which would be great, so I can knock them out before my wrist surgery. Fingers crossed.
Just so there's no delay, could those folks PM me yours specs just to make sure. Height, diameter, small bore, large bore and premade core...y/n. Also wood name would be great. Lastly will need a pic of mod to ensure grain alignment.
Just so there's no delay, could those folks PM me yours specs just to make sure. Height, diameter, small bore, large bore and premade core...y/n. Also wood name would be great. Lastly will need a pic of mod to ensure grain alignment.
Maybe a splint will help
I don't need to prop mine up like you brother!
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