I hooked up my watts meter and did some testing with the revised board I got today, here’s the results:
OLED -------------------------------------------- Watts meter
(7W)
1.6 ohm, 3.5V (calc: 7.7W) ----------------------- 7W, 2.01A, 3.48V
2.1 ohm, 3.9V (calc: 7.2W) ----------------------- 7W, 1.78A, 3.96V
2.5 ohm, 4.3V (calc: 7.4W) ----------------------- 7W, 1.60A, 4.37V
3.3 ohm, 4.9V (calc: 7.3W) ----------------------- 6.9W, 1.40A, 4.96V
(14W)
1.6 ohm, 4.9V (calc: 15W) ----------------------- 13.8W, 2.84A, 4.85V
2.1 ohm, 5.4V (calc: 13.9W) --------------------- 13.7W, 2.53A, 5.4V
2.5 ohm, 6V (calc: 14.4W) ----------------------- 13.8W, 2.3A, 6V
3.3 ohm, 6.9V (calc: 14.4W) --------------------- 13.9W, 2.0A, 6.95V
(20W)
1.6 ohm, 5.8V (calc: 21W) ----------------------- 19.7W, 3.4A, 5.78V
2.1 ohm, 6.5V (calc: 20W ------------------------ 19.7W, 3.03A, 6.5V
2.5 ohm, 7.1V (calc: 20W) ----------------------- 19.3W, 2.68A, 7.2V
3.3 ohm, 8.2V (check atomizer) (calc: 20W) ------ 19.2W, 2.34A, 8.19V
From the results, output voltage with what the OLED shows vs output voltage with what the watts meter shows is pretty much spot on. The Watts shown from the OLED is either spot on or within 4% (20W vs 19.2W) difference of the Watts shown from the watts meter.
And as you can see, and what I've noted in the past, you can't trust the V(squared)/R = W equation cuz I feel sumfin is going on with resistance behind the scene that we aren't aware of as resistance fluctuates throughout a vape. Resistance is like a wild card in our applications. I've found that to be true with my vv devices as well as double coil, triple coil, etc. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Here’s a pic of my breadboarded test:
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