making hybrid safe for attys with flush 510 centerpin

[Ben85]

Im quite dissapointed with amount of ignorance shown here.
I will end it here as I have no mood nor time for this.
Honestly. It looks like you would be happier with someone blowing their face off rather than helping to find safer way. Also as I said. This just grows with ignorance as I bet that only one person max thoroughly read what I wrote.

I can’t help but feel that you are frustrated because we haven’t agreed with your idea. If you don’t want honest feedback - don’t ask the question.

 

[Steve Parry]

I bet that only one person max thoroughly read what I wrote.

Did you? You said...

I know I will be mocked that I should't bought hybrid for flush 510 attys

Which you were. Then you said...

Im quite dissapointed with amount of ignorance shown here.

You expected to get mocked and you did. What's to be disappointed about?

It looks like you would be happier with someone blowing their face off rather than helping to find safer way.

We tried to help you find a safer way, namely to use the proper tool for the job. You didn't want the safer way, you wanted people to endorse you doing it the unsafe way.

There's no safe way to vape a non-protruding 510 on a hybrid top cap. You stated you didn't buy that mod to use it with that tank. Good. That means you either must have a different mod to use it on, or you didn't intend to use it when you bought that mod. That's the safe way. Either use it on something it was designed to be used on, or don't use it.

As for calling us ignorant, you're the one vaping a nautilus on a hybrid mech. I feel comfortable allowing the readers to determine which of us that accurately describes.

 

[ericbnc]

I have the Nautilus too. Haven't used it in a while, but it worked ok with a king mech. FT has a knight v2 mod for under $7. I would buy that instead of the heatsink. It's always nice to have an extra mod when you use a couple ot more attys every day.

 

[stols001]

Um, you yourself stated in the thread that you were getting an RTA for this setup, I guess I'm confused as to why you want to not wait, and use your drop in coil tank on whatever (non mech) mod you bought it for?

Also, sometimes there just isn't a way to make "unsafe" things "safer." That seems to be your sticking point.

But, I do want to ask, if there were a way to make certain "unsafe" things "safer" don't you think everyone would be using those things and you would have no question to ask (hint: regulated mod, LOL)????

Sometimes things are unsafe, period. You're better off with that "knowledge" than flailing about and insisting "I want to be safe... By using something incredibly unsafe!" Life doesn't work that fashion (nor does cause and effect) unfortunately. I've lived the risky lifestyle, and when I did I most certainly didn't try to make my unsafe actions any safer, but I did learn from my mistakes. (Not vaping related, BTW).

Also like it or not, your actions do affect other people besides you: the vaping community, anyone around you if/when your mod blows up, vaping generally (battery explosions, the serious ones, wind up tracked), not to mention (perhaps most importantly) the people who LOVE you and care about you, and who may have to "take care" of you after a catastrophic accidence.

Ignorance may be bliss... Until it isn't. Also, not educated is different than not smart. The not smart cannot "learn" from their errors. Give me teachable, every last time. At least then, you have fighting chance.

Anna

 

[Spey]

Hello.
I know I will be mocked that I should't bought hybrid for flush 510 attys, I didn't buy it for that. But I was wondering. Is there any way to make flush attys safe for hybrids? Like something like those 510 heat spreaders could work if they have protruding or adjustable 510. I found a way to make Nautilus 2 work without that but it isn't something I'd trust (taking off the rubber from coil threading and screw the coil as hard as possible - that makes the centerpin protrude a bit as it is pushed from the coil out) but I'd like to know some safer method.

RE: "Is there any way to make flush attys safe for hybrids?"

"Safe" is very much dependant on the user and their ability to think/understand variables (all variables). In general a hybrid, more specifically direct to battery mech is probably not gonna be "safe" for most folks regardless because the industry has for the most part transitioned to mods with multiple fail-safes. Most users don't want to understand the variables much less consider the potential, they just "want something that works".

My first mod was direct-to-battery mech (first was a single 18650, second was a dual parrallel) so what I feel is safe I would say is not for the average vaper of today. Take anything I say here with disclaimer that "you" should NOT try, only presented as anecdotal (my experiences with direct consideration of the specifics of equipment involved).

There are numerous ways one could solve your question depending on the specifics of equipment (atty, mod, battery):

1) Intall a longer 510 pin/screw (meaning the head is longer) into atty such the the center-pin contact extends safely past the outter contact.

2) Install shim between 510 screw & base (to extend contact of center-pin safely past the outter contact). May, or may not, require a longer 510 pin.

3) Add material (example: silver solder) to extend center-pin length safely past the outter contact.

4) Intall atty spacer, aka finned heat sink, between atty & mod. Spacer needs some type of adjustable/floating, etc. center-pin based on the specifics of atty, mod, battery being used. Photo example below.

In all referenced examples 510 extensions must not be allowed to make contact with outter contact resulting in a hard-short.

Photo attached is one example of floating-center-pin spacer (in this case also a heat-sink). In this example the top-side (atty-side) floating 510 is manually pushed up, atty attached forcing floating 510 into working position, then atty/spacer is attached to mod, and battery securement tension is set achieving center pin connection from battery thru spacer to atty. ("floating 510" in this case means it moves up & down, but requires fair amount of force to do so, some are spring-loaded). If a different atty is attached the process sequence must be repeated, otherwise the center-pin may have fault/failure including but not limited to;
1) not make electrical contact (atty center-pin is shorter than initial atty).
2) could damage battery (atty center-pin is longer than initial atty).
3) could short the mod (continuous firing).

Additionally, the atty spacer in this photo creates a barrier/separator so that juice from tanks bottom-side air-flow does not pass into/onto battery. Any leaking juice (from bottom-side air-flow) stops at spacer, and/or runs down side of device instead of into/onto battery.

Additional disclaimer:
We can help ignorant, but can't fix stupid ;-)

 

[VHRB2014]

Do you have the skills to replace the rubber insulator with a insulator made from delrin? That is what you would need to do. Tbh, it's not worth the time when it would need to be done on each new coil, at that point it makes sense to rebuild it, or switch to a rebuildable all together.

 

[NLVaper69]

Hello.
I know I will be mocked that I should't bought hybrid for flush 510 attys, I didn't buy it for that. But I was wondering. Is there any way to make flush attys safe for hybrids? Like something like those 510 heat spreaders could work if they have protruding or adjustable 510. I found a way to make Nautilus 2 work without that but it isn't something I'd trust (taking off the rubber from coil threading and screw the coil as hard as possible - that makes the centerpin protrude a bit as it is pushed from the coil out) but I'd like to know some safer method.

I'm using a Smok Spirals on a hybrid mech. I removed the center pin, then grinded about 1mm off the threading with a dremel and then reinstalled the pin. It now protudes a little more than a mm. I'm using it that way for almost a year now. No problems during that time.