Manual Diamond Light On Constantly

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katz-in-boots

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One of my new Manual Diamonds has started playing up, it seems to have just started doing it this morning. Its LED is on constantly. I tried clicking the switch a few times, which didn't do anything, so I gently tapped it on the desk. The light flashed 3 times and went off. I checked it on the charger and it was down in charge, so I recharged it, took it off charger and put back on shelf, but it keeps coming on & staying on. Sounds like a switch problem to me, would that be right? Is there a fix for this? Is it dangerous?
:blink:
I know others have had problems with Autos doing this sort of thing, though I haven't. I'm not doing too well with my manual diamonds; out of the 3 I got, one was DOA; although the LED flashed when I screwed it onto the charger and the charger said it was charged, nothing happened when I pushed the button. V4L gave me a credit for that one. Now this one is playing up. 2 out of 3 is bad. :facepalm:
 

EleanorR

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Oh, shucks, Katz! I'm so sorry for your run of bad luck with these! :(

I have (too many to count :blush:) manual Diamonds, and so far (crossing fingers) haven't experienced a single problem! :ohmy: (Oh dear, I hope I didn't just jinx myself!) I'm sure V4L will set things right for you, although I know it's a big hassle what with you being Down Under and all . . .
 

DrMagick

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I have a Blu battery which is auto and one of them was playing up. After taking a drag, the light would stay on for an extra 2 seconds. It was also really sensitive, going off for no apparent reason.
I know it's not the same issue as yours but it is a little similar. It started doing it after I overfilled my first cart (newbie) and didnt wipe it off before connecting to the batt. Even switching to dry carts, it still did it.

Has that happened to your one? If it is a case of a wet battery connector, I was able to fix mine.

What I did was I take a giant drag, I sucked it as hard as I could till my lungs could take no more. After that it was fixed. If you don't want to fill your lungs up with nasty burnt tasting vapor, I attached a 5 meter hose to my cart and sucked it thru the hose.

Hopefully it will help you fix it, and if not hopefully the vendor makes it right for you.

Cheers
DrMagick
 

katz-in-boots

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DrMagick, different issue altogether, I suspect, tho thanks for your suggestion. I am pretty good with carto filling, so it isn't an excess juice problem - less likely to be an issue with manuals anyway.
Thanks Eleanor, unusual to get 2 out of 3 with problems, for sure.

Turns out my tapping on the desk was a furphy (is this just an Oz saying?). I sat down & refilled a heap of cartos, and thus was able to observe what the little demon was doing. The LED would come on for solid about 5 seconds, then flash 3 times and go off. It did it every few minutes. It was really starting to creep me out, with its eerie green glow. I gave it a long, stern look and told it that if it didn't behave itself it would be taking a one-way trip to Morandir's dungeon, from which no malfunctioning battery would escape, there to be subjected to rigorous types of torture until ultimate & gruesome death in the name of greater knowledge & understanding of battery demons.
:evil: Weirdly it didn't do it again for some minutes, but just as I started thinking this battery really understood what I'd said, it did it again.
Alas, it is a true maverick; the LED activating when it wants and not when I press the button. I shall open another support ticket. V4L customer service are going to start wondering what I do to my batteries :laugh:
 

Morandir835

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Ms. Katz haven't experienced this yet on any of the manual kd's, but sounds like the button is stuck. Happened a few times on the old golden button batts. Sometimes there was no explanation, others it was because juice got into it. You could try the last ditch effort from the vapor king line, place the battery in a shot glass with everclear or high percentage iso alcohol and let it soak for a day or so. It's hit or miss, but worth a shot.
 

DrMagick

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I've recently realised that my fix is only temporary, and sometimes it doesn't work at all :(
I may try Morandir835's suggestion with my dodgy Blu batt. So do I just soak the complete battery in alcohol? Or just the connector where the thread is? Should the batt be flat, charged, or doesn't it matter. Any guidance would be appreciated :D
 

Morandir835

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DrMagick (sir or Ms.?) autos are a different beast. There's a 1 in 5 chance the shot glass trick will work on a manual, autos more like 1 in 50. The king diamond batts are the only ones where I've seen decent success (from the pm's received it's got a 40% success rate). Anyways, with an auto you want just enough alcohol in the shot glass that it won't go past the switch mechanism. On a v4l batt that's right around the logo, on a blu batt should be a 1/4 of an inch above where the post is in the connection. Let it soak overnight standing up in the shot glass, and let it dry for at least a day standing up with the connection end facing the ground before use. It's not guaranteed to work, but at least there's a chance.
 

SnowDragon

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I know others have had problems with Autos doing this sort of thing, though I haven't. I'm not doing too well with my manual diamonds; out of the 3 I got, one was DOA; although the LED flashed when I screwed it onto the charger and the charger said it was charged, nothing happened when I pushed the button. V4L gave me a credit for that one. Now this one is playing up. 2 out of 3 is bad.

Morandir.....I'm just spit-balling here but I wonder if this may have something to do with the charging set-up.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vapor4life/242261-show-us-your-vaping-basecamp-7.html

Just throwing this out there.......:2cool: What else is there that could affect the switches on brand new manual batts?
 

katz-in-boots

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Morandir.....I'm just spit-balling here but I wonder if this may have something to do with the charging set-up.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vapor4life/242261-show-us-your-vaping-basecamp-7.html

Just throwing this out there.......:2cool: What else is there that could affect the switches on brand new manual batts?

Snow, I've up-dated since those photos were taken. I bought some V4L slim chargers at the same time as these batts. Originally these batts only went on the slim chargers - I did put the malfunctioning one on the generic charger, but that was only because it was already playing up, I wanted to see if it made any difference.
 

AliceMalice

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As a last ditch effort on manuals, and if you can find it, a product called DeoxIT might help. DeoxIT is used to remove oxidation from electrical contacts, and has worked a couple of times for us. My husband works with electronics professionally, and he has used it on a couple of mine that the switch was acting up on. Just spray or drop (it can be found in a spray can with straw spray tip or in a needle cap bottle) a small amount around the button so it can seep in between the button and the metal (a little goes a long way), let it sit for a while and then push the button to work it around inside a bit. It may take a little while if the contacts are pretty dirty, may even try a second application if it is really nasty inside. We only go this as a nuclear option, and it may not be easy to find, probably need to go to Radio Shack or electrical supply store, though Home Depot or Lowe's might carry it as well. There may be similar products, this one is just his favorite and most trusted brand.
 

katz-in-boots

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LOL, I've renamed this battery Linda Blair (the Exorcist) because the light is green and it is so creepy. It just keeps coming on, stays on for vary lengths of time before flashing 3 times and going off again. Finally at dinner tonight, my DD turned it around so we can't see it any more. Seriously though, it's a new battery, wouldn't have thought it'd have a chance to build up dirt on contacts.
 
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