McMaster Wicks

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zippersnapper

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I agree about the Mcmaster-Carr stuff,,, but I'm sorry like I said a vendor friend of mine ordered me some special from China and he doesn't make a habit of stocking or selling this so I cant post where I get it, sorry. Maybe look on Alibaba and contact some manufactures and then get together with 3-4 people who want some and split an order of it would be a good idea I think. Or just order it from Bruce @ COV what's wrong with that ? 10 feet will last you a longgggg time zippersnapper and Bruce usually has it I believe.

Thanx...I'll order from COV...I'm just worried that all the "ODYSSEUS" related stuff will be in constant short supply...I'm the type of person who will stick with a vendor, even though the prices may be slightly higher, if they keep a constant supply..

Once again, MUCH thanx for the heads up !!
 

Sci

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I use this silica sleve from MSC.
3195106-11.jpg
It separates easy, wicks well & lasts. Nicotime introduced me to this particular wick. Don't make the mistake I did & order 4'. I'm set with wick for a loooong time. :)
I'll see if I can point Nicotime to this thread, he's also tried a ceramic based(I think) wick along with a bunch of other similar things.
 

rob5482

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zippersnapper

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The question I have is how do we know they really are silica wicks that we are getting. Has anyone tested cov's wick? Or any one else's? Below is from alibabba for 2mm fiberglass wick.

2mm E cigarette fiberglass rope - Product Picture From Ganzhou Guangjian Fiberglass Co., Ltd.

Sure looks like the cov wick, or the ce2 wicks or any of the other wicks I have seen.


rob:
I would stay away, actually run away, from fiberglass....

Silica,ceramic, or ss mesh #400...is the safe bet...
 
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rob5482

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Zipper that wasn't the ? I asked. I would never use fiberglass I only use ss mesh in a rebuildable ce2 I made. But if you look at the link, the pics look exactly like ce2 wicks, the wicks from cov, and almost every "silca" wick I have seen. How do you know you are really getting silica in what you are buying?
 

urquidezj

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zippersnapper

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Zipper that wasn't the ? I asked. I would never use fiberglass I only use ss mesh in a rebuildable ce2 I made. But if you look at the link, the pics look exactly like ce2 wicks, the wicks from cov, and almost every "silca" wick I have seen. How do you know you are really getting silica in what you are buying?

I apologize. I thought you were implying the fiberglass.
As far as "How do you know you are really getting silica in what you are buying" I really dont know except to read what the vendor says its make up is. If they offer a MSD sheet, that would be better still.

Unless your a material specialist, have a lab, or know how to torch it and anylize what you see burning, I'm not really sure how to be 100% certain.

I do know this though:
The vast majority of vets on here, know what thier talking about. I'm the fool and bought silica (wrong type from wrong vendor) without reading ALL the threads pertaining to atty rebuilding. Your certainly right about buying something that "looks like silica"...Hell, the pics I've seen looks like nothing more than "kite string" to me....if you get my point....
 

zippersnapper

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Thanx, Rockin' Rob...love your vids by the way...As a matter of fact, its you and Steel Jan who got me on the whole C4 teardown thing..


BTW...I read that thread...very informative..BJ43 is pretty sharp, no doubt...

I am still going the silica route though...I wonder if a really tiny bit of poly fill stuffed in the drip tip, will catch any micro particles that might escape the initial burn with my blow torch?
As long as I dont stuff too much, the draw shouldn't suffer a great deal?
 
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zippersnapper

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Teach

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Thanx, Rockin' Rob...love your vids by the way...As a matter of fact, its you and Steel Jan who got me on the whole C4 teardown thing..


BTW...I read that thread...very informative..BJ43 is pretty sharp, no doubt...

I am still going the silica route though...I wonder if a really tiny bit of poly fill stuffed in the drip tip, will catch any micro particles that might escape the initial burn with my blow torch?
As long as I dont stuff too much, the draw shouldn't suffer a great deal?

That appears to be working from the cartridge heater style design - but that's the first I've seen linked to e-cigs. About 1-1.5 years ago some play was going with that and one person was trying to design one that would not have such high power consumption rates. This one is small, designed for 3.7v and has a low resistance. Those old style ones were stainless case with kanthal coils and are used in many appliances etc.

With the ceramics, I don't remember anyone finding the size/voltage requirements fitting an e-cig, discussion petered off with the rest of the group.

Good find urquidezj - it looks to me like someone over there is developing it for the e-cig, but where are the e-cigs that use them? It's possible that the factory let this slip out early and the ecigs haven't released yet... love seeing this stuff out there
 

cos

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Julio great job on finding this. Like Teach said. maybe this is what we need. Julio if this is what we talked about we can do a group buy mayb e. I am in baby. just want to hear more about this before we jump in.
 

asdaq

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Curious read, not in entirety, but snippets here and there. You can see they were covering all the possible bases with random ideas but also narrowing in on 2.5Ω and 5v at one point or another. I remember seeing an article circa 2002 on slashdot describing a potential ecig, but it wasn't fleshed out enough to sound convincing.
 

nicotime

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Curious read, not in entirety, but snippets here and there. You can see they were covering all the possible bases with random ideas but also narrowing in on 2.5Ω and 5v at one point or another. I remember seeing an article circa 2002 on slashdot describing a potential ecig, but it wasn't fleshed out enough to sound convincing.

I noticed that also. There are a lot of interesting patents for ecigs and vaporizers out there...but when it comes down to it..you cant get much more efficient than wetting a resistance wire directly to get vapor. Even with ceramics you have to first heat the ceramic to get the heat...so you have that thermal mass issue.
 

BuzzKilla

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Considering this is the place to ask.

would it be possible to "coat" the resistance coil in a porous ceramic, and just having it extend into a reservoir of juice?
i ask because i've never worked with ceramic, and have no idea how it is formed or molded.

In my mind, it would be better for the rebuildable guys. The heating element is enclosed and wouldnt have to be exposed to the juice, causing the ceramic to take all the built up residue, and would theoretically be easier to clean.

:confused:
 

asdaq

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You'd have to 'pay' a lot to heat up the ceramic to get to the juice. Even a thin layer would ruin efficiency. Not unlike having a gunked up coil. Also it would hold the heat longer than desired and gunk up even more. There's a lot of that seen in the graphs from nico's link too.
 

nicotime

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Not to mention the heat being wasted by the juice absorbing it...just like sticking a red hot coil in a tank..its like boiling a pot of water..and you wont get much vapor at all. Then you have the byproducts of the non-volatile components of the juice contaminating the whole tank...thats what gives you that nasty taste towards the end of your tank or carto.

A thin coating wont work either because you have two different expansion rates...it would flake off...I tried it with the Autocrete I have.
 
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