The silver upgrade for the Raptor is comprised of 925 sterling silver parts. No one is cloning that
MCV Raptor T6 - the new mech box from the guys who did the Cherry Bomber!
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Could someone with a t6 clone from 88, please tell me if your bridge is also silver-plated, or plain copper like the original?
I'm excited about getting this mod, and to see if it hits harder than my alu abaddon with copper internals, which is quite a performer itself...
I'm excited about getting this mod, and to see if it hits harder than my alu abaddon with copper internals, which is quite a performer itself...
Thanks alot for clearing that up for me! Anyway, it's a shenray, supposedly 1:1, with great reviews, so i'm guessing it's a nice clone, but just rather wanted it to be like original... With plating, they could just as well use SS, as no one would know untill much later possibly... Also, I read two different tests where plated brass/copper contacts where lesser conducting than plain brass/copper... Nitpicking, I know... When using very low ohm, then VD differences actually becomes something that matters, as you know...
Anyway, it's a shenray, supposedly 1:1, with great reviews, so i'm guessing it's a nice clone, but just rather wanted it to be like original... With plating, they could just as well use SS, as no one would know untill much later possibly... Also, I read two different tests where plated brass/copper contacts where lesser conducting than plain brass/copper... Nitpicking, I know... When using very low ohm, then VD differences actually becomes something that matters, as you know...
Thanks alot for clearing that up for me!
Plating doesn't improve the conductivity.
Plating slows oxidation, providing a clean contact point.
Yes, I know it slows oxidation, but e.g. a silver plated copper piece, vs a standard copper piece, should theoretically heighten conductivity shouldn't it? I know the difference is so small to be neglible, between copper and silver, is that what you mean?
I've read electricity travels on surfaces, and not inside, but don't know if it's true(here thinking about e.g. ss with plating vs copper)... However, i'm baffled why a test here and at calivapers showed very, very slightly worse conduction???
I've read electricity travels on surfaces, and not inside, but don't know if it's true(here thinking about e.g. ss with plating vs copper)... However, i'm baffled why a test here and at calivapers showed very, very slightly worse conduction???
Should. Offhand, I prefer raw copper to silver plating as it can be difficult to asess the cleanliness of silver plated parts. I can take a silver plated contact which appears visually clean, place it in a bath of hot water + baking soda + aluminum foil and witness a surprising amount of transferred tarnish.
A cell generates DC, which thoretically distributes one-way current through the entire body of the mod. I alluded to the possibility of skin effect due to how current draw and associated magnetic fields change during a pull through a mechanical mod in another thread. Until empirical evidence proves otherwise, I clean the entire mod and not just the contacts during periods of maintenance.
Could be a number of reasons. Most likely due to switch design as there were no mods tested in which raw copper contacts were replaced with silver plated variants and retested or vice-versa. The results were that mods with raw copper contacts fared better than those with silver plated ones. To generalize that silver plated contacts are less conductive than raw copper ones would be misreading the results.
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Thanks for your reply, mate!
The tests I was refering about, where of course same mod/switch... E.g. in one place a nemmy with plated brass, was physically removed the plating and tested against an un-modded contact, and 0.01v diff. They alluded that it could be a mis-representative... Second, i've read a thread here, where the same mod/switch was tested with copper and silver-plated copper contacts and also the slight variation towards best in copper...
That's the exact reason for me being baffled
The tests I was refering about, where of course same mod/switch... E.g. in one place a nemmy with plated brass, was physically removed the plating and tested against an un-modded contact, and 0.01v diff. They alluded that it could be a mis-representative... Second, i've read a thread here, where the same mod/switch was tested with copper and silver-plated copper contacts and also the slight variation towards best in copper...
That's the exact reason for me being baffled
It looks like i'm getting my raptor t6 shenray clone tomorow, and I can't wait to test it out and do some VD tests... My new dual-parallel-mechs rule-of-thumb, is that I want it to have atleast the same, or better, VD than my best smpl clone, for earning a spot in my rotation, so on 1 ohm, better than 0.11v... My abaddon is 0.08v and I hope it can be beaten by the raptor... This is with old 25r's btw...
If anyone has a t6 clone with copper bridge, like from 88, then I would really appreciate it, if somebody could kindly post VD test of a 1ohm load, when fully cleaned, please... preferably with tobecco meter to standardize.. Not that I think the bridge will make a difference, but just because it's another manufacturer/model it seems...
Then we know which type clone is best, atleast VD-wise....
If at all possible, then please lets define a standard for batteries, as else the values are useless... I personally, propose 25r's, since firstly, it's almost all I use, lol, but also very popular brand as most have available... On second thought, that would probably still be useless, as the IR will differentiate also after usage, but still, as a very rough comparisson, possibly without much merit, then I would still appreciate it, please...
If anyone has a t6 clone with copper bridge, like from 88, then I would really appreciate it, if somebody could kindly post VD test of a 1ohm load, when fully cleaned, please... preferably with tobecco meter to standardize.. Not that I think the bridge will make a difference, but just because it's another manufacturer/model it seems...
Then we know which type clone is best, atleast VD-wise....
If at all possible, then please lets define a standard for batteries, as else the values are useless... I personally, propose 25r's, since firstly, it's almost all I use, lol, but also very popular brand as most have available... On second thought, that would probably still be useless, as the IR will differentiate also after usage, but still, as a very rough comparisson, possibly without much merit, then I would still appreciate it, please...
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OK, I have just spend 2 hours meticulously cleaning my shenray raptor t6 clone, and the VD results are on a 1ohm load with old 25r's 0.09v. That is about the same as my aluminium abaddon, which is 0.09v and sometimes 0.08v, so I will say they are matched imho for performance...
I checked a youtube video of the original which featured a complete breakdown, not that I didn't knew how it was done, lol, but because I could then do a comparison against each and every part against the original, and i'm amazed at how close this clone is. It is a 1:1 and I would say everything is spot on, down to even the spring which is good quality, and the single thing that's different is the positive bridge, which is copper originally and silver plated on mine. There's a very slight scratch on the plate, which shows me, i believe, that it's copper underneath. It's hard to see as so tiny, but I seem to notice some reddish hue typical for copper. Also the threads are great and the tolerances are good. The materials looks first class and top quality. The brass and copper shines and looks so great. The engraving(not printed, real engraving) and button and everything is like original. Great throw and stable on the VD test.
I really am liking these shenray clones, which FC has a lot of and lists if it's from them, like my shenray castigador which also is spot on and both has gotten 5 start reviews only. I lost one of the small items that holds the battery door unfortunately, so I had to order another shenray castigador, btw and also picked up a dos equis while at it(I canceled a previous order of it because of big batch issues reported) , so can't wait to do a VD test comparison on all of them including nikita(0.14v) and abaddon. I did suspect that it wouldn't beat my abaddon btw, but i'm thinking possibly the castigador and possibly dos-equis will. Note my abaddon is one with solid copper inside, and not the plated versions which is most sold, which are either brass or SS underneath the plating...
Anyway, this raptor gets absolutely two thumbs up from me and it's a great simplistically internally designed full dual mech box
The only thing i'm not really a fan off is the battery terminals, as it's not so quick or comfortable to change cells, and I much prefer dimitri or abaddon style or similar, but this is exactly as original and has nothing to do with the clone, though... Still, better than springs that can collapse/loose tension/break... I only use these boxes at home, so don't care for needing a screwdriver for cell-changings personally...
Edit: I fully cleaned my aluminum abaddon and did a vd test with a par of old 25R's and not the same as yesterdays test, and I got 0.09v for the abaddon(could have selected 0.08v if wanted also, but nonetheless), and the raptor got 0.1v, both on 1 ohm as usual.
I love the raptor after using it a day, and it feels so good in the hand with slightly rounded edges and the button is simply a joy to use, and it's so great looking in real life. However, the battery terminals are simply a ..... to use, as they are to small and takes forever to thread in/out with so many threads and I have to be so careful at the start to find the correct starting-threads, so as to not cross-thread. It's the same as original of course. However, for such a big and heavy mod, then it's a little disappointing to me that it cannot beat the little sleek abaddon. I don't mind a nice heavy thick mod, but it should then also perform as such, or else it's a little useless imho. I like the look and button feel way better on the raptor, but the sleek little abaddon, which actually performs the same or slightly better, is probably my favorite of the two. It's also got a stable button btw, just like the raptor, but definitely not as smooth... I dunno, I willl have to spend some more time with it, but as said, this clone is simply amazing!
I have got to also make some vd tests at lower ohms, but i'm not sure how low the VD meter I got supports to go, or if even have a limit(tobecco volt-meter)? I would guess that the results would be comparabel, as there's no circuit which could possibly favor certain ranges, and 1ohm is often used as standard for these tests, but if there could be a difference then of course it should be tested...
I checked a youtube video of the original which featured a complete breakdown, not that I didn't knew how it was done, lol, but because I could then do a comparison against each and every part against the original, and i'm amazed at how close this clone is. It is a 1:1 and I would say everything is spot on, down to even the spring which is good quality, and the single thing that's different is the positive bridge, which is copper originally and silver plated on mine. There's a very slight scratch on the plate, which shows me, i believe, that it's copper underneath. It's hard to see as so tiny, but I seem to notice some reddish hue typical for copper. Also the threads are great and the tolerances are good. The materials looks first class and top quality. The brass and copper shines and looks so great. The engraving(not printed, real engraving) and button and everything is like original. Great throw and stable on the VD test.
I really am liking these shenray clones, which FC has a lot of and lists if it's from them, like my shenray castigador which also is spot on and both has gotten 5 start reviews only. I lost one of the small items that holds the battery door unfortunately, so I had to order another shenray castigador, btw and also picked up a dos equis while at it(I canceled a previous order of it because of big batch issues reported) , so can't wait to do a VD test comparison on all of them including nikita(0.14v) and abaddon. I did suspect that it wouldn't beat my abaddon btw, but i'm thinking possibly the castigador and possibly dos-equis will. Note my abaddon is one with solid copper inside, and not the plated versions which is most sold, which are either brass or SS underneath the plating...
Anyway, this raptor gets absolutely two thumbs up from me and it's a great simplistically internally designed full dual mech box
The only thing i'm not really a fan off is the battery terminals, as it's not so quick or comfortable to change cells, and I much prefer dimitri or abaddon style or similar, but this is exactly as original and has nothing to do with the clone, though... Still, better than springs that can collapse/loose tension/break... I only use these boxes at home, so don't care for needing a screwdriver for cell-changings personally...Edit: I fully cleaned my aluminum abaddon and did a vd test with a par of old 25R's and not the same as yesterdays test, and I got 0.09v for the abaddon(could have selected 0.08v if wanted also, but nonetheless), and the raptor got 0.1v, both on 1 ohm as usual.
I love the raptor after using it a day, and it feels so good in the hand with slightly rounded edges and the button is simply a joy to use, and it's so great looking in real life. However, the battery terminals are simply a ..... to use, as they are to small and takes forever to thread in/out with so many threads and I have to be so careful at the start to find the correct starting-threads, so as to not cross-thread. It's the same as original of course. However, for such a big and heavy mod, then it's a little disappointing to me that it cannot beat the little sleek abaddon. I don't mind a nice heavy thick mod, but it should then also perform as such, or else it's a little useless imho. I like the look and button feel way better on the raptor, but the sleek little abaddon, which actually performs the same or slightly better, is probably my favorite of the two. It's also got a stable button btw, just like the raptor, but definitely not as smooth... I dunno, I willl have to spend some more time with it, but as said, this clone is simply amazing!
I have got to also make some vd tests at lower ohms, but i'm not sure how low the VD meter I got supports to go, or if even have a limit(tobecco volt-meter)? I would guess that the results would be comparabel, as there's no circuit which could possibly favor certain ranges, and 1ohm is often used as standard for these tests, but if there could be a difference then of course it should be tested...
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A Raptor with the original stainless spring is not really a Raptor . Upgrade it with a self-wound spring using the copper core of a coaxial cable. Better yet, wind one out of 18g Argentium 935 silver wire before destressing it in a clean oven at 300°C for two hours. Best bet would be a properly aged and destressed 18g Argentium 960 compression coil. Or take the spring out of the conductive path with high temperature magnets.
. Upgrade it with a self-wound spring using the copper core of a coaxial cable. Better yet, wind one out of 18g Argentium 935 silver wire before destressing it in a clean oven at 300°C for two hours. Best bet would be a properly aged and destressed 18g Argentium 960 compression coil. Or take the spring out of the conductive path with high temperature magnets.
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Thanks mate! Although please post VD tests to verify, please... Would be interesting to see the result/difference... It doesn't get hot at 0.1, so I don't think there's to much drop there, but of course don't know for sure...
Edit: That always puzzles me big-time... Why do the mod-makers not include magnets by default or atleast use silver/rhodium-plated copper, e.g. on mods going for several hundred dollars? On some mods it does make a diff and others not, so when it's not included in the high-dollar mods, and then still making a detectable/measurable difference, then they must simply be highly ignorant or something imho...
Also, some state magnets are conductive and others they are not... Granted I haven't looked it up for more than 1 or 2 google hits, but seriously need to...
Although please post VD tests to verify, please... Would be interesting to see the result/difference... It doesn't get hot at 0.1, so I don't think there's to much drop there, but of course don't know for sure...Edit: That always puzzles me big-time... Why do the mod-makers not include magnets by default or atleast use silver/rhodium-plated copper, e.g. on mods going for several hundred dollars? On some mods it does make a diff and others not, so when it's not included in the high-dollar mods, and then still making a detectable/measurable difference, then they must simply be highly ignorant or something imho...
Also, some state magnets are conductive and others they are not... Granted I haven't looked it up for more than 1 or 2 google hits, but seriously need to...
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Seems the only version available this side of the pond is the Kindbright clone. Anyone have any experience with this one?
No, sorry, but here's some breakdown pics though and sorry if you already seen...
Raptor T6 Box Mod Vaporizer Clone Aluminum Vape Mechanical Mods Fit Dual 18650 VS Incubus Osmium V2 Tuglyfe Tugboat Adamantium X Mod DHL Online with $18.32/Piece on Kindbright's Store | DHgate.com
Btw, although FT takes a month's time about, then FC usually for me takes about 2 weeks lately as deutche post(the standard shipping) is really fast, atleast to denmark...
Raptor T6 Box Mod Vaporizer Clone Aluminum Vape Mechanical Mods Fit Dual 18650 VS Incubus Osmium V2 Tuglyfe Tugboat Adamantium X Mod DHL Online with $18.32/Piece on Kindbright's Store | DHgate.com
Btw, although FT takes a month's time about, then FC usually for me takes about 2 weeks lately as deutche post(the standard shipping) is really fast, atleast to denmark...
I'm also after one and have been having terrible luck, i wonder how much the customs would be if one was bought from the usa.
Alright, 2 cons... In addition to the battery terminals, then why didn't mcv make some slidges or how it's stated for seating the 510 propperly! It's the second time I unscrew the 510 when changing atty!
Amazing internal design, performance, button-feel, feeling-in-hand and looks, still though, no less...
Btw, I think they changed the shenray batch, because it was initially stated to have sharp edges, but mines perfect and rounded slightly, just like original...
Amazing internal design, performance, button-feel, feeling-in-hand and looks, still though, no less...
Btw, I think they changed the shenray batch, because it was initially stated to have sharp edges, but mines perfect and rounded slightly, just like original...
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I like this mod a lot and the delrin is great, both for the whiners, lol and for never making the mod hot, only the atty, which is why I like it...
I finish cleaning it meticously and it hits great, but then an hour later I have to press in then up to fire, or in and to the side... I've never had a mod so prone to I guess it's arcing/pitting, but I screw the four screws on-top open and lift it with the atty on, for being lazy, and use a fiberglas scrathpen to remove a very small dot, if at all, but sometimes it doesn't work that well, so thinking if it could be something else... My 3 smpl's pit 100 times more, and that fires fine, although with lesser power of course... I mean I don't have to wigle the button... Whenever I completelly disassemble and clean, then it works, so i'm sure that's it, but just an hour before dwindling, that's not very long... Just wanted some other raptor users opinion. I have 7 dual parallel mech boxes, and this is the only one that's finicky... Anyway, I love my new fiberglass scratchpen, both for this and the smpl's and all other arching mods of course. Thanks alot sig-cmt!
I'm sometimes thinking if the "negative-switching" is more prone to arcing than positive-switching? Probably not, dunno...
Lastly, do any of you guys know if it's OK to test VD at 0.1ohms on a dual-parallel box? I'm afraid of frying the meter... It's a tobeco inline-voltmeter, the kind almost all uses...
I finish cleaning it meticously and it hits great, but then an hour later I have to press in then up to fire, or in and to the side... I've never had a mod so prone to I guess it's arcing/pitting, but I screw the four screws on-top open and lift it with the atty on, for being lazy, and use a fiberglas scrathpen to remove a very small dot, if at all, but sometimes it doesn't work that well, so thinking if it could be something else... My 3 smpl's pit 100 times more, and that fires fine, although with lesser power of course... I mean I don't have to wigle the button... Whenever I completelly disassemble and clean, then it works, so i'm sure that's it, but just an hour before dwindling, that's not very long... Just wanted some other raptor users opinion. I have 7 dual parallel mech boxes, and this is the only one that's finicky... Anyway, I love my new fiberglass scratchpen, both for this and the smpl's and all other arching mods of course. Thanks alot sig-cmt!
I'm sometimes thinking if the "negative-switching" is more prone to arcing than positive-switching? Probably not, dunno...
Lastly, do any of you guys know if it's OK to test VD at 0.1ohms on a dual-parallel box? I'm afraid of frying the meter... It's a tobeco inline-voltmeter, the kind almost all uses...
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Sounds like a problem with the compression spring. Take it out and examine how it deflects between you fingers. Compression springs will almost always increase in diameter as they are compressed due to the angles at which they are coiled. Oftentimes, this results in side deflection which can prevent the spring from being fully compressed.
Thanks for your reply! I'll check again. I have wondered about the spring from when it first happened, but since it fires perfectly for 1 to well maybe 3 hours, after cleaning it, then it shouldn't be that i'm thinking. Also because, the button is always great, no matter what, and goes in the length it should, non-angled, and I can feel that it hits the negative copper-barrel fine, but just doesn't fire, unless i wiggle... Then it works for maybe 10 hits wiggling up, then no more, Then I change to e.g. left for a couple hits, and afterwards the same for right and for down. Also sometimes if pressing with both hands hard at the middle then it works, but othertimes not...
Well, it's pretty obvious from above what happens i.e. oxidation or pitting or whatever, but it's just annoying spending a litte over an hour cleaning it till fingers are numb, and then having to do it all over a couple hours later...
I use 0.1 ohms, which is a lot of power, but I do that in all my mechs... One thing i've been thinking about, which I think actually it is, is that after cleaning it and using it, then I will next time make absolutely sure that I press the button in hard and firm, well, firm, not hard, everytime... I'm thinking that I maybe haven't made sure to do that, and that's causing it... It's just odd, because if there is anything to see when the issue arises, then it's the very slightest grey spot, not felt with your nail going over it. With my smpl's, and also others of my tube mechs, after cleaning them, then after a couple of hours there's much more pitting and it always fires fine, never a misfire...
Well, it's pretty obvious from above what happens i.e. oxidation or pitting or whatever, but it's just annoying spending a litte over an hour cleaning it till fingers are numb, and then having to do it all over a couple hours later...
I use 0.1 ohms, which is a lot of power, but I do that in all my mechs... One thing i've been thinking about, which I think actually it is, is that after cleaning it and using it, then I will next time make absolutely sure that I press the button in hard and firm, well, firm, not hard, everytime... I'm thinking that I maybe haven't made sure to do that, and that's causing it... It's just odd, because if there is anything to see when the issue arises, then it's the very slightest grey spot, not felt with your nail going over it. With my smpl's, and also others of my tube mechs, after cleaning them, then after a couple of hours there's much more pitting and it always fires fine, never a misfire...
Just wanted to add that i've fixed my issue with the firering... Since I could feel the pin touching the copper-barrel, and both was clean, then as the issue was worked-around by wiggling, then I concluded that the problem-area was with the point-of-entrance of the button into the body. There wasen't anything to see, but as I had cleaned it before in that little hole, then I now used a tiny strip of sandpapir I cut and used to lightly sand all the way around, and now it's fixed... I'm feeling kinda stupid for spending so much time before finding the "obvious" answer/culprit... The reason I wrote "obvious" in quotation-marks, is because I of-course had thought in those lines right away, but just dismissed it because it didn't happen right after cleaning, but just an hour later, but nonetheless. Anyway, if others are getting same issue, then try that...
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