Not a press fit, it slides into place. The screw maintains the throw setting and holds the entire switch in place. Loosen the screw and the switch will become unseated from the box.
MCV Raptor T6 - the new mech box from the guys who did the Cherry Bomber!
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Not a press fit, it slides into place. The screw maintains the throw setting and holds the entire switch in place. Loosen the screw and the switch will become unseated from the box.
My switch button is perfectly flush. It doesn't back out. It has a short throw, and fires perfectly. Maybe the aluminum versions are done differently, but my copper one is perfect. I do keep it clean and have taken it apart many times. The switch button is just a square post with a spring. The other side is a copper screw. There is nothing else to it. I would think that if it was not flush, then it must not be screwed in all the way, either that or a manufacturing error.
So...What are the verified differences between the authentic and the clone?
I don't think anyone is able to answer this until we find someone who actually has acquired both.
The design is the same, the difference might be manufacturing tolerances, but I don't have an authentic so I don't know how much better the tolerances are an the authentic (if they are better at all). I did mention already that the tolerances on my clone are perfect. But that may not be the case for all of the clones. It is a metal mech mod with a few delrin insulators. There aren't many parts to it.
I did decide to replace the screws on the top cap of mine after taking it apart multiple times, due to the small screw heads stripping a little. This was not a big deal for me, since I have so much gear and keep the spare parts for all of my devices, so I just found four screws that fit. It might require a trip to the hardware store for someone without a lot of extra parts already, though. The authentic could be the same way, however, that I do not know.
The biggest difference is probably going to be where the devices are manufactured and the price. Sometimes, it is nice just to have an authentic device because it is endorsed by the authentic community and the machining was paid for by the original designers. And sometimes $350 is too much for a copper box that is bought with the main purpose of being used regularly.
I am still using my copper Raptor clone daily. It is a very frequently used mech, and I have quite a few similar mech mods.
So how are you guys still liking this box mod? I really like the Black Aluminum one, but is the Copper one any better in design?
I am loving it with only two minor annoyances:
1. Would have preferred a larger 510 connector for improved seating with > 22mm RDAs/RTAs.
2. Would have preferred a smooth(er) button as my fingers tend to catch on the firing button. Maybe I need to moisturize. Not.
A few personal tips (YMMV):
1. Apply NOALOX to the box threads to reduce galling and to extend thread lifetime.
2. 510 installation tool is helpful in holding the connector in place while tightening down the copper contact ring.
3. Torque all cross-head screws to 3-4 ft-lbs. Periodically examine the parallel bridge screws for cam-out.
4. Apply Nyogel 760G to all female screw threads to mitigate the effects of vibration abrasion.
Offhand, I would forego the painted black aluminum and go with the brushed or copper finish. Paint tends to peel over time and likely increases resistance due to skin effect. The Raptor hits hard with a low build. Not quite as hard as a series box, but it is close to as hard as an unregulated parallel mech is going to hit owing to its simple circuit path and reduced number of parts. Takedown is dead simple: I only use a cross-head torque driver and a dime.
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I have been having intermittent issue with miss fire. Not auto fire, just a soft hit. Have to wiggle my finger on the switch to get it going. Haven't had the balls to take the switch a part and investigate.
It's a cntrft so I could easily replace it. But I like using it so much that I don't want to risk hosing something up and having to wait 3 days for a new one.
Sure is nice to run a 0.2-0.3 all day without worrying about toting spare batteries around. On my tube and my old hammond dual I found myself swapping out around 3.8. Seems like my vape doesn't go too far south on this until 3.6-ish.
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It's a cntrft so I could easily replace it. But I like using it so much that I don't want to risk hosing something up and having to wait 3 days for a new one.
Sure is nice to run a 0.2-0.3 all day without worrying about toting spare batteries around. On my tube and my old hammond dual I found myself swapping out around 3.8. Seems like my vape doesn't go too far south on this until 3.6-ish.
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Any less than a consistent and firm firing pressure leads to a disconnection which can result in the the soft hit which you describe.
Depress the firing button to raise the screw off the chassis. Thread/unthread it with your fingers, a dime or a slotted 1/4-inch offset driver. If you do happen to lightly strip the screw, be aware that it does clean up well with wet 2000 grit sandpaper. Coming from a flashlight modder background, I also apply Nyogel 760G on all female screw threads before reassembly.
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Yeah, think I'm going to order the cu version.. When it gets here I will take the switch apart on this one.
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1. Magnets + silver firing button has some play. The required firing pressure is less than that of the spring. This reduced pressure results in slight button play as it is able to spin ever so slightly to the right ~1mm.
2. The 12-piece silver contact upgrade is manufacturedby 2JNT with approval and guidance by MCV. Currently available upgrades include coin-slotted battery doors and not silver 1:1 versions of the original doors.
3. Silver 1:1 battery doors are currently being produced by 2JNT to be made available next week. As I have the silver contact set sans 1:1 doors, I have contacted MCV to ask if they would be willing to sell only the 1:1 doors.
4. The 12-piece silver contact upgrade appears to be plated as the drive heads are far more durable than those of the original copper parts. Offhand, I have not noticed the Raptor hitting any harder.
Going for a 0.08 Ω 22g Ti build later...
2. The 12-piece silver contact upgrade is manufacturedby 2JNT with approval and guidance by MCV. Currently available upgrades include coin-slotted battery doors and not silver 1:1 versions of the original doors.
3. Silver 1:1 battery doors are currently being produced by 2JNT to be made available next week. As I have the silver contact set sans 1:1 doors, I have contacted MCV to ask if they would be willing to sell only the 1:1 doors.
4. The 12-piece silver contact upgrade appears to be plated as the drive heads are far more durable than those of the original copper parts. Offhand, I have not noticed the Raptor hitting any harder.
Going for a 0.08 Ω 22g Ti build later...
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It really shouldn't hit any harder with silver components. The bulk of the circuit is of a less conductive material after all. Nice up sell though... Shiny!
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Good thing you have the right batteries for that
Where does 2JNT see their stuff? Sooner than later I'm going end up trying the Raptor!
I stand corrected as the contacts are confirmed to be unplated.
2JNT is selling the hollowed negative doors direct for 3000 PHP + 2400 PHP (shipping). Western Union or MoneyGram cash pickup only.
Direct via Facebook/Facebook Messenger. Be forewarned that shipping costs from the Phillipines to the US can be prohibitive.
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There are at least two changes between the initial and current production runs of the silver contact set (I have both):
1. The current run ships with hollowed negative doors (1:1 against the original copper doors). This is how they should have been from the start.
2. The current run ships with a slightly wider positive bridge snipped into a bowtie shape. This reduces the liklihood of arcing in the event the screws holding the POM bridge deck to the chassis cam-out and provides a safety factor which improves upon both the original copper and silver connection bridges.
1. The current run ships with hollowed negative doors (1:1 against the original copper doors). This is how they should have been from the start.
2. The current run ships with a slightly wider positive bridge snipped into a bowtie shape. This reduces the liklihood of arcing in the event the screws holding the POM bridge deck to the chassis cam-out and provides a safety factor which improves upon both the original copper and silver connection bridges.
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Raptor > Cherry Bomber. IMO. Also, I dislike the Raptor clones offered by 88evape (I have two) as they are not 1:1 (firing button, engravings, peg hole, et al) and are inferior in build quality (screws, threading, POM finish, et al) to the authentic. If I were to consider a Raptor clone, I would look to the Focalecig or FastTech variants. Thoughts after some use? The authentic remains the best overall dual parallel mech available today as far as I am concerned.
MCV Raptor (88evape Clone) + Steam Angel Dark Horse (Authentic) + SMOK TFV4 Drip Tip
MCV Raptor (88evape Clone) + Steam Angel Dark Horse (Authentic) + SMOK TFV4 Drip Tip
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I have a shenray 1:1 raptor t6 comming from FC and will report on it when gotten... It's looks great from the pics, reviews and a youtube review of said model, but I'm just wondering why they plated the positive bridge and solely that single part? Of course it's not bad, but just rather wanted the fully 1:1 better... I normally prefer unplated copper contacts, since you know that it's e.g. not SS underneath(if the plating chips), and also more important, for being able to sand off arcing and high-spots etc... Not important on this design, though...
focalecig.com - MCV Raptor Style 18650 Mechanical Mod by ShenRay - Silver
Semi-breakdown of model + vd test:
Edit: About the plated bridge, then I could understand if they added full cloned 12-piece silver upgrade, and not just one single piece...
focalecig.com - MCV Raptor Style 18650 Mechanical Mod by ShenRay - Silver
Semi-breakdown of model + vd test:
Edit: About the plated bridge, then I could understand if they added full cloned 12-piece silver upgrade, and not just one single piece...
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