MCV Raptor T6 - the new mech box from the guys who did the Cherry Bomber!

[Tommy-Chi]

I got mine from Focal Ecig for around $55 for full copper, which I assume is a Chinese clone company, but the packaging says it came from Germany.

In any case, I tried an rda on it with dual claptons reading somewhere around 0.37ohms, fully charged batteries...and there was little to write home about. Very little vapor, so I need to ask.

I'm getting my hands on a Twisted Messes Squared and that will be the top for it. What is the best ballpark target for ohms on this mod? I can go with anything...claptons, twisted, straight, dual or single coil...what is the sweet spot?

Thanks!

 

[sig-cmt]

Sounds as if the Raptor is your first mechanical. What is the mass and heat capacity of your coils according to Steam Engine?

 

[Tommy-Chi]

Been vaping since September 2015 only using regulated box mods. I wanted to have some mechanical mods in case I was unable to buy gear in the future...just wanted some hands on. Bought two box mod mechanicals. One from Scott's Mods and the other an MV Raptor copper clone.

The coils are UD Ferris Wheel claptons. Kanthal A1 26ga+32ga, ID 2.8mm, with an avg of 0.6ohms ea.

I tried to get the Steam Engine interface set up but the closest that I can get the vales is a heat capacity of 489.91 but that may not be accurate. I figure the value could be as low as 475 and as high as 550 but it's a guess.

I've got:
Inner Dia: 28mm
Wraps: 3.5
Legs: 5mm
Wrap Spacing: 0.1mm

Resistance on Steam Engine is said to be 3.633 ohms, so it is very far off b/c the reading I get when it is mounted on my Sigeli is 0.37.

Down where it says Clapton, I have the awg in correctly, but have no idea what to put in for mm. I do not know what that value represents...if you tell me I'd much appreciate it!


Like I said, I'll have new RDAs before the month is out and can use/create other coils...not claptons (never made one) because I don't have the tools to do so at the moment.

 

[sig-cmt]

Are you sure you did not mean 4.5 wraps (which would give you 0.74Ω)? Heat capacity per coil should be around 80-105 mJ/K. Even with 4.5 wraps, your total mass and heat capacity remains lower than that of my standard of 22g 316L Ø3.75mm 7/6 wrap @ 0.1 to 0.12Ω for duals. What wattage do you normally hit those claptons with on a regulated device? Offhand, because your coils are faster and contain less mass than my aforementioned standard, I would shoot for 0.15Ω and make adjustments from there. However, this is in accordance to how I prefer to vape. You may prefer vaping cooler, or hotter than I do...

 

[Tommy-Chi]

I had the RDA set up on the Sigelei 150W mod and I vape at 90W. I only tossed them on the Raptor for one drag to make sure the device that was sold to me worked.

The Raptor to me, is going to be more of a keepsake. It's beautiful and I'd never vape on it everyday. Nonetheless, I'll be buying one Twisted Messes Squared RDA to share btw the Scott's Mod and Raptor. That way if I need a 1ohm build, I can put it on there and leave it alone.

 

[mhertz]

Also, if you haven't already, then strip it down and clean thoroughly and tighten everything down propperly, which is important on mechs, even when just acquired. I have the aluminum raptor shenray clone from focalecig and that's a great hard-hitting mech indeed. I only had to change the spring as it collapsed from hitting it at 0.1ohms after some time past. If you like to vape at 90'ish watts, then build like sig-cmt stated around 0.15ohms with good 20a cdr cells.

 

[Tommy-Chi]

Also, if you haven't already, then strip it down and clean thoroughly, which is important on mechs, even when just acquired. I have the aluminum raptor shenray clone from focalecig and that's a great hard-hitting mech indeed. I only had to change the spring as it collapsed from hitting it too hard at 0.1ohms. If you like to vape at 90'ish watts, then build like sig-cmt stated around 0.15ohms with good 20a cdr cells.

Thanks Guys/Gals! All input welcome!

I was going to clean it using copper cleaner, but think the product I was to use was a paste and I did not want to scratch it. It really is beautiful!

Cleaning it will have to wait abt a week or two for my next check and I'll buy some high quality "solution." I don't want finger prints or anything on it. I already have rubber gloves to hold it while cleaning it so I don't leave any fingerprint acid behind.

I emailed Twisted Messes and they said that the Squared version should be back in stock around the 8th!

 

[Tommy-Chi]

Are you sure you did not mean 4.5 wraps...

I tried as hard as I could to count those wraps properly and for the life of me... I think they're 3.5. The first thing that goes are the ability to feel sensations on the tips of your fingers, then the eyes! Doh!

 

[mhertz]

You're welcome For the record, I mainly meant clean it inside, which is more important than outside. You don't need anything there except alcohol or vinegar/salt, lemonjuice/salt or ketchup etc. The different specialty solutions just makes oxidation happen in a lesser rate going forward, so the conductivity isn't lost as fast.

I did think about getting the raptor in copper, but aluminum isn't that much from the conductivity of copper e.g. better than brass already, but of course copper is the best, except silver of course. If it was SS, then I would have gone with copper. I imagine though it is really heavy with cells inside Hmmm, thinking about getting the copper anyways now, lol

 

[Tommy-Chi]

You're welcome For the record, I mainly meant clean it inside, which is more important than outside. You don't need anything there except alcohol or vinegar/salt, lemonjuice/salt or ketchup etc. The different solutions just makes oxidation happen in a lesser rate going forward, so the conductivity isn't lost as fast.

I did think about getting the raptor in copper, but aluminum isn't that much from the conductivity of copper e.g. better than brass already, but of course copper is the best, except silver of course. If it was SS, then I would have gone with copper. I imagine though it is really heavy with cells inside Hmmm, thinking about getting the copper anyways now, lol

Ahh... I'll clean it inside too! Thanks!

When I saw the picture of the originals I wanted one, then I saw the price. OMG! $250 to $450 and the best thing was they were all sold out so it saved me from a huge mistake!!! So when I came across this forum topic, I threw down figuring heck, if it does not even work for $55, it will be the most beautiful paperweight I own. Better yet... IT WORKS! And although vapor production wasn't all that great on the one drag I took, I'm looking forward to getting it to truly produce clouds.

I never thought that I would be buying vaping gear for a collectors item and here I am!

 

[Nikea Tiber]

Get a can of Nevr-Dull wadding. It is cheap and shines copper up nicely. Get Ohm's law down pat so you can get the wattage you like off your Raptor so it doesn't sit unused. It is a nice paperweight for sure, but it is an even better 2p mod.

 

[Tommy-Chi]

Get a can of Nevr-Dull wadding. It is cheap and shines copper up nicely. Get Ohm's law down pat so you can get the wattage you like off your Raptor so it doesn't sit unused. It is a nice paperweight for sure, but it is an even better 2p mod.

Hahahaha... it's a collectors item for me. I'll be vaping it to get it dialed in, and then it's just for special occasions such as if I dress up and want to take a vape(weddings, fancy dress ups).

 

[Nikea Tiber]

Make sure it doesn't pull your pants down. Copper 2p boxes are couch use items for me due to mass.

 

[mhertz]

The aluminum abaddon tested slightly better previously on 1ohm load than the aluminum raptor, but it's reversed on 0.1ohm for some reason...

The abaddon tested 0.74v VD on 0.1ohm load with old 25Rs, and just when it was time to test the raptor, then the meter broke unfortunetly, but I had tested it previously before I cleaned it to 0.54v VD on 0.1ohm, so that is atleast the minimum drop... Of course same cells tested in both mods, same atty, and 5 runs and most consistent value taken.... The raptor is an aluminum shenray from fc, btw...

I'll get a new meter and limit the testings to 0.5'ish ohm...

I'm getting some different coax cables with solid 99.95% copper center-conductors in 16 - 20 gauge to change out the stock springs in my 12 mechs and so will report if it makes a measurable difference against my current 20g SS316L spring(the stock one collapsed) in the raptor...

 

[sig-cmt]

I'll get a new meter...

@mhertz: I love you for your ramblings, but I will never trust your VD numbers so long as you use an inline Tobeco meter. Why don't you get a Fluke DMM or a similar meter? Place the leads on the corresponding post screws and obtain trustworthy results which include the resistance of the actual atomizer in use. Factor in the stated accuracy of the DMM and showcase useful data.

 

[mhertz]

Thank you mate and point taken I'll investigate some on it... I'm not really much "in-the-know" on all this yet, so that is the actual "why" answer, but i'm eager into learning and eventually graduating into someone with more knowledgeable ramblings, lol

Edit: I'll research for some better measurement hardware and techniques, but from quickly glancing through some fluke DMMs, then it's out of my range i'm affraid. I'm unfortunetly on a budget currently and cannot spend min 200usd on a DMM atleast not as of this time at least...

 

[Tommy-Chi]

Make sure it doesn't pull your pants down. Copper 2p boxes are couch use items for me due to mass.

Now that would be hilarious! My pants down around my ankles at somebody elses wedding... I'll skip the belt!

 

[mhertz]

If you have a raptor(or cherry-bomber) clone which hasen't perfect tolerances beween the button and box(slight play/wobbly), then you will sometimes have to press in and to a side or up/down, to complete the circuit(negative connection), and also the spring often helps as a conductor, so it's important to use a tight spring to fix this and wrap spring so that first wrap touches button(sticks to it) and the rest wraps touches/sticks into the box(button-housing) to make a stable negative connection through the spring as a workaround for the wobbly "main current-path"..

If you have issues this video is nice imho, although I would've used 18g solid copper:

 

[MMW]

Love.

 

[Nikea Tiber]

If you have a raptor(or cherry-bomber) clone which hasen't perfect tolerances beween the button and box(slight play/wobbly), then you will sometimes have to press in and to a side or up/down, to complete the circuit(negative connection), and also the spring often helps as a conductor, so it's important to use a tight spring to fix this and wrap spring so that first wrap touches button(sticks to it) and the rest wraps touches/sticks into the box(button-housing) to make a stable negative connection through the spring as a workaround for the wobbly "main current-path"..

If you have issues this video is nice imho, although I would've used 18g solid copper:

This is the reason copper raptors and cherry bombers are worth the extra price over an aluminum version, especially anodized aluminum. If your raptor or cb is firing through the spring, it isn't working properly. You should be able to fire 60 amp builds without frying your fingertip.
If your raptor or cb is anodized, take the button out and check the hole in the mod it slides through; if it is anodized in there (any color other than shiny, machined aluminum) you need to do something about it because it is killing your switch conductivity.
There is a product used for stripping finishes off of aluminum called White Lightning, you can soak the head of a q-tip in it and leave it in the switch hole of the mod for a while, then give it a quick scrub and eyeball it to make sure all the anodizing is gone. Use no-alox in there to prevent oxidization, and re-assemble it.

Of course, I think the better option is to get one in copper and use the aluminum one for spare parts.