Mech button getting hot

[Vagabondnurse]

Question for the more knowledgeable mech users out there: I have an Electric Angel mechanical mod and no matter what I put on top if it the fire button gets hot when I use it. From a 1.29ohm kayfun Lite+ to a sub ohm build on a Russian 91% the button heats up. The lower the resistance of the topper the faster the button gets hot.

Tonight I built my first braided coil (two strands of 30G Kanthal, 8 wrap microcoil on a Russian 91%) and the button got hot very rapidly to the point I was leery about using it. Just got a new ohm meter and didn't have the batteries to check the resistance.

I know now my devices aren't shorting out because I can use the 0.8ohm and higher resistance tops on my Provari. What causes this heat buildup on the mech?

 

[Mikey6]

New to sub rebuildables but you guess would be a battery not rated for the current draw or maybe an internal short on the mod. Fire it with no topper and if it gets hot=internal short. I'm sure someone will come and correct me, but that's my 2¢

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[Vagabondnurse]

New to sub rebuildables but you guess would be a battery not rated for the current draw or maybe an internal short on the mod. Fire it with no topper and if it gets hot=internal short. I'm sure someone will come and correct me, but that's my 2¢

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I'm using AW IMR 18650 batteries, 2000mAh, brand new batteries. It happens with any battery I use. Thank you though.

 

[TrentTC]

Does the battery get hot or only the button? Check the positive and negative posts with a multimeter. You could have a short. Any resistance will cause heat.

 

[MamaTried]

a provari fires at 0.8 ohms???? wow. didn't know that...

and you're doing sub-ohms without an ohmmeter???

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

Question for the more knowledgeable mech users out there: I have an Electric Angel mechanical mod and no matter what I put on top if it the fire button gets hot when I use it. From a 1.29ohm Kayfun Lite+ to a sub ohm build on a Russian 91% the button heats up. The lower the resistance of the topper the faster the button gets hot.

Tonight I built my first braided coil (two strands of 30G Kanthal, 8 wrap microcoil on a Russian 91%) and the button got hot very rapidly to the point I was leery about using it. Just got a new ohm meter and didn't have the batteries to check the resistance.

I know now my devices aren't shorting out because I can use the 0.8ohm and higher resistance tops on my Provari. What causes this heat buildup on the mech?

Sand/ file and clean the button contact. Fixes it 90% of the time.

 

[Rickajho]

Clean all threaded parts too.

 

[muzichead]

I seem to recall in the APV forum there was talk of a hot button fix for the EA a year ago. I think it had something to do with the spring in the switch if memory serves me correctly... It may have been the contact pins though. I tried to find it, but was unsuccessful... It was in a thread that compared a few different APV's like the Adam, Natural, GGTS, KTS, and such...

 

[Vagabondnurse]

a provari fires at 0.8 ohms???? wow. didn't know that...

and you're doing sub-ohms without an ohmmeter???

Yeah, the Provari v2/2.5 has a low limit of 0.8ohms which is nice.

No, no, no.... A couple weeks ago I was moving and got caught in the first ice storm that went through the south. I got into an accident and rolled my F150 Supercrew over a couple times. I lost a ton of vape equipment: 3 Kayfun's, an eVic, a Nemesis mod, my ohm meter, about a liter of ejuice from higher end vendors, my desktop gaming computer, etc.

Yesterday was my first venture into trying a braided coil build because my new ohm meter came in the mail. When I went to test it I realized it didn't come with batteries. I have a very healthy respect for electricity and would never do sub ohm builds without an ohm meter which is why I put the build to the side until I can get batteries today. I don't want to end up being one of those cautionary tales of "If only I used an ohm meter I wouldn't be missing half my face..."

 

[Vagabondnurse]

Does the battery get hot or only the button? Check the positive and negative posts with a multimeter. You could have a short. Any resistance will cause heat.

Not the battery, just the fire button.

 

[iamzg]

Yeah, the Provari v2/2.5 has a low limit of 0.8ohms which is nice.

No, no, no.... A couple weeks ago I was moving and got caught in the first ice storm that went through the south. I got into an accident and rolled my F150 Supercrew over a couple times. I lost a ton of vape equipment: 3 Kayfun's, an eVic, a Nemesis mod, my ohm meter, about a liter of ejuice from higher end vendors, my desktop gaming computer, etc.

Yesterday was my first venture into trying a braided coil build because my new ohm meter came in the mail. When I went to test it I realized it didn't come with batteries. I have a very healthy respect for electricity and would never do sub ohm builds without an ohm meter which is why I put the build to the side until I can get batteries today. I don't want to end up being one of those cautionary tales of "If only I used an ohm meter I wouldn't be missing half my face..."

Is insurance gonna cover all your vape stuff? Lol- I feel your pain, rolled my plow truck during the big ice storm.

 

[edyle]

There's resistance on the contacts of your fire button.

If you are using a 1 ohm coil and there is 1 ohm of resistance corrosion on your fire button, then half the power is going into heating up the fire button.

With higher resistanc coils, less power gets wasted inside the fire button itself.

 

[HughDaHand]

Sand/ file and clean the button contact. Fixes it 90% of the time.

I don't have an EA but my KTS required this sanding about once a month to keep the button from getting hot. It has a very similar setup to the EA so I imagine it would also happen to the EA mod. The brass contacts on the KTS would actually start to turn black if I let it go for a while. I think it arcs a little before they contact making these burnt spots.

 

[Vagabondnurse]

Is insurance gonna cover all your vape stuff? Lol- I feel your pain, rolled my plow truck during the big ice storm.

Unfortunately no....... After having the same insurer for probably 15 years I was forced to switch last year and I wasn't as diligent as I thought when choosing my new coverage. I forgot to check that little box for "collision" coverage so as my father would say, I'm ...-out. Comprehensive doesn't mean full coverage as the word would suggest, it covers only things like fire, flood, vandalism, deer, etc., things that are alive. Collision covers inanimate things like ice, guard rails, rollovers, other vehicles, etc.

 

[Revelene]

A simple water and dish soap clean could solve the issue as well. Might want to try that before diving into filing and grinding...

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[Kanj.nguyen]

I don't have an EA but my KTS required this sanding about once a month to keep the button from getting hot. It has a very similar setup to the EA so I imagine it would also happen to the EA mod. The brass contacts on the KTS would actually start to turn black if I let it go for a while. I think it arcs a little before they contact making these burnt spots.

This remedy works for all side button mechs really - its a design thing. The side button gets hotter than bottom button since if you think about it, since the negative post is a cylinder, the flat surface of the pin actually makes very little contact with it - theoretically the contact surface area is zero (a line).

Small contact area means a high resistance, which frequently causes arcing and just general heating up.

If the EA uses stainless steel pin, wiping the contacts with a clean rag would suffice. However, if the pin is brass (like the KTS), a little light sanding is usually required to clean off the oxidization layer.

 

[iamzg]

Bummer. Luckily I was in a work truck abd workers comp covered the costs. Hopefully you get in to something new that you love!

 

[Vagabondnurse]

This remedy works for all side button mechs really - its a design thing. The side button gets hotter than bottom button since if you think about it, since the negative post is a cylinder, the flat surface of the pin actually makes very little contact with it - theoretically the contact surface area is zero (a line).

Small contact area means a high resistance, which frequently causes arcing and just general heating up.

If the EA uses stainless steel pin, wiping the contacts with a clean rag would suffice. However, if the pin is brass (like the KTS), a little light sanding is usually required to clean off the oxidization layer.

Thank you very much, that helps a lot.

 

[Vagabondnurse]

And thank you to everyone for your replies, they are much appreciated!

Happy Valentine's Day to all or "Hey you're still single day, just thought we'd make a holiday to remind you."

 

[TrolleyVW]

I had this issue with my ehpro EA clone. Some 2000 grit sandpaper, some IPA, and a very thorough scrub of all threads and contact points did the job.

For the scrubbing, I used some dawn dish soap to cut the grease but when I reassembled, I made sure all was dry as could be and then applied a tiny smear of noalox to all moving parts besides the button.