mech mod gets too hot when using 0.2ohm build

[st0nedpenguin]

Why? Genuine question here, I know nothing about noalox.

Almost every time anybody mentions it it's in reference to NEEDING to use it to improve conductivity.

 

[twgbonehead]

The 510 connection likely won't be an issue. But the atty might, or the coil.

As for safety, yes there are warning signs - provided you pay attention to them, or even know what to pay attention to. You may know what you're doing, but mechs are sold to Joe Sixpack muppets also. If you don't know it's not normal when a button gets hot, you might continue vaping thinking it's okay, until the contact fuses closed. Heck, even the OP felt he need to ask whether it's normal, despite the fact that it's blindingly obvious that it isn't.

batteries won't necessarily explode in your hand, or vent nasty chemicals, or set things on fire if something goes awry. But there's more than enough risk to warrant safety electronics imho.

giraut,

I certainly don't want to criticise your excellent analyses here. But the 510 connector can be an issue, not because of the outer threads, but because of the center-pin. I'm not sure there is a geometrical "standard" but there are a number of mod-head combos where the center pins of the 510 connection don't mate with enough force to provide a good connection.

Has nothing to do with the OP, though; in this case it seems clear it's the switch that's the issue.

 

[DaveP]

Why? Genuine question here, I know nothing about noalox.

FWIW, Noalox and Ox-Gard are two paste form "conductive grease" products that improve conductivity and help to prevent corrosion on threads and connections. They were originally designed for use with aluminum wire used in direct feeds from the transformer on the pole to the power connection on the building. Aluminum tends to oxidize upon exposure to air. Oxidation reduces conductivity and creates heat at the point of resistance with a bare connection.

Low voltage devices suffer from small losses and that happens with 3.7v ecigs at the atomizer connection. Both products also lubricate the threads on a mod or atty and prevent wear out of the 510 connection.

 

[VapinSweetZ]

Ok so I got 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the Tobeco Turtle Ship v2 clone.
Before cleaning: 4.02v (with inline volt meter) and 3.55v with 1.3ohm atomizer = 0.47v drop.
After cleaning the firing button (all the pieces including the spring): 4.02v - 3.6v = 0.42v drop
After I also cleaned the top cap and positive pin 4.0v - 3.8v = 0.2v drop.

 

[DaveP]

Ok so I got 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the Tobeco Turtle Ship v2 clone.
Before cleaning: 4.02v (with inline volt meter) and 3.55v with 1.3ohm atomizer = 0.47v drop.
After cleaning the firing button (all the pieces including the spring): 4.02v - 3.6v = 0.42v drop
After I also cleaned the top cap and positive pin 4.0v - 3.8v = 0.2v drop.

The more threads you have the more you need alcohol cleaning and Noalox. Sigelei Zmax is a good chinese mod, but with the telescoping body (more threads) it really makes a difference when you clean and Noalox the battery cap and the threads that allow you to shorten and lengthen the body for accommodate various battery sizes. What happens with the Sigelei Telescope Zmax is weird logic issues where it might just pop into the menu or refuse to vape if you haven't cleaned it in a long time. Momentary breaks in conductivity can wreak havoc with logic based devices and low voltage outputs.

You can see those things with a VV/VW mod or a mech mod by screwing on a 510 thread voltmeter inline with the atomizer. Sounds like you did that with the atomizer installed readings. Half a volt is a big loss.