Mech mod not firing properly

[Bilonix]

Does your atty have an adjustable center pin or are you just unscrewing the screw that holds it all together? If not a true adjustable center pin it is getting loose up in the atty and shorting out causing your problems and a DANGEROUS problem.

yeah, once i screw it out it stays out, it doesn't just get pushed back in like a floating pin or anything. and as you can see it sticks out really far... see why i dont think that is the problem? lol

 

[Hans Wermhat]

I have a Velocity rda with an adjustable pin

That atty will work for that mod. Now you need the rest of the tools that were suggested. With the 25R batteries, you need to make sure you don't build below .5 ohms. That will leave you some safety margin in case there is another problem. Always check your builds on an ohm meter. Be sure to put the top cap on the RDA when testing to rule out a direct short there. But seriously... please don't use that mod again with those efest batteries.

 

[Bilonix]

That atty will work for that mod. Now you need the rest of the tools that were suggested. With the 25R batteries, you need to make sure you don't build below .5 ohms. That will leave you some safety margin in case there is another problem. Always check your builds on an ohm meter. Be sure to put the top cap on the RDA when testing to rule out a direct short there. But seriously... please don't use that mod again with those efest batteries.

I thought it would. but ok yeah, im buying some samsung 25r batteries sometime today and an ohm reader. & i'll start with a 0.5 ohm build to be safe. im sure people build lower though with that battery. but if the 0.5 ohm works fine, no hot button or anything, is it then safe to try and build like a 0.2? or 0.3?

 

[Hans Wermhat]

. .2 is too low for that battery. That's 21 amps. .3 is pushing the limits and I wouldn't do it. I personally won't use those batteries in a mech. I use Sony VTC4's. They will run up to 30A if you don't try to vape with every breath for an extended period of time. There really isn't any benefit from a super low ohm build like that.

 

[Bilonix]

. .2 is too low for that battery. That's 21 amps. .3 is pushing the limits and I wouldn't do it. I personally won't use those batteries in a mech. I use Sony VTC4's. They will run up to 30A if you don't try to vape with every breath for an extended period of time. There really isn't any benefit from a super low ohm build like that.

my guess was that the benefit would be more vapor since my problem is that im getting no vapor haha. my coil i have right now, is a normal coil that i would wrap for my box mod, 6 wrap, 22 gauge around 3mm drill bit and it usually came out to about 0.6 or so 0.7 maybe. and with that coil on the mech for the first time it hardly sizzled. and got told by 100 people my resistance is to low and that 0.15-0.3 is like the sweet spot for mechs.

 

[3mg Meniere]

My sweet spot for mechs is 1.5.

 

[Hans Wermhat]

6 wraps 22G @ 3mm is around .35 - .4 ohms. That's right on the edge of safety. .15 is just stupid low. That's right at 30A. You will actually get a better vape out of a .6 ohm build with a smaller gauge wire like 26 or 28G. The resistance is higher with smaller wire, but it doesn't take as much energy to heat it up. My standard build for a mech is 6 wrap dual coils @ 3mm with 28G. It's a .7ish ohm build and makes some decent fog. Heats up almost instantly too.

 

[Bilonix]

6 wraps 22G @ 3mm is around .35 - .4 ohms. That's right on the edge of safety. .15 is just stupid low. That's right at 30A. You will actually get a better vape out of a .6 ohm build with a smaller gauge wire like 26 or 28G. The resistance is higher with smaller wire, but it doesn't take as much energy to heat it up. My standard build for a mech is 6 wrap dual coils @ 3mm with 28G. It's a .7ish ohm build and makes some decent fog. Heats up almost instantly too.

well ill be back on this thread in a little bit once i head to the shop and grab afew things and ill see if i can figure it out with them too. cheers.

 

[ReigntheGamer]

my guess was that the benefit would be more vapor since my problem is that im getting no vapor haha. my coil i have right now, is a normal coil that i would wrap for my box mod, 6 wrap, 22 gauge around 3mm drill bit and it usually came out to about 0.6 or so 0.7 maybe. and with that coil on the mech for the first time it hardly sizzled. and got told by 100 people my resistance is to low and that 0.15-0.3 is like the sweet spot for mechs.

For my mechs I stick in the .4/.5 range plenty of flavor/vapor, and easily doable with 20 amp batteries. And I would try 26ga. to get in that range.

 

[Hans Wermhat]

Don't let anybody at the shop try to tell you it's ok to build a .15 ohm coil on a mech!!!! Lol!

 

[roxynoodle]

Honestly, I think most builds under 0.4 ohm aren't a great vape on a single battery mech. That's my opinion, of course . The ramp up time is too slow for my liking.

Now its also possible something is wrong with your switch, but first we had to look at the definite safety issues (pos pin on atty, battery and no way to test your build for a short). Get those taken care of, and if the switch needs work, we can address that next. If it gets hot again after the first 3 things get taken care of, again please stop using it and wait for further help. In fact the first time you fire it again, don't even vape it. Point it away from you and others. I would do it outside. Any heat in switch, put it down and wait.

 

[ReigntheGamer]

Honestly, I think most builds under 0.4 ohm aren't a great vape on a single battery mech. That's my opinion, of course . The ramp up time is too slow for my liking.

Now its also possible something is wrong with your switch, but first we had to look at the definite safety issues (pos pin on atty, battery and no way to test your build for a short). Get those taken care of, and if the switch needs work, we can address that next. If it gets hot again after the first 3 things get taken care of, again please stop using it and wait for further help. In fact the first time you fire it again, don't even vape it. Point it away from you and others. I would do it outside. Any heat in switch, put it down and wait.

I agree, anytime I've been below .4 it hasn't been an awesome experience. Then again I use 28 ga micro coils and have the opposite of a slow ramp up. It goes from button push to cotton fire real quick.

 

[roxynoodle]

I just looked up the mod and it seems they have a magnetic switch so it should be fair to say there's not a weak spring in it acting as a coil.

 

[Hans Wermhat]

The ony issue I've ever seenwith a mag switch was a worn insulator/guide bushing causing the switch to hit the battery at a wonky angle. Can cause heat issues, but not enough to make the switch "hot".

 

[ppeeble]

The reason people get agitated in threads like this is because what you have described sounds like you are shorting the battery. If you have a dead short then the battery will vent. Best case scenario is a useless battery, worst is the mod exploding in your hand/face.
No-one should use a mechanical mod without first testing the resistance of the coil being used on it.
No-one should use a hybrid device without a thorough knowledge of how they work.
No-one should use a hybrid device without being absolutely sure the mod and atty are compatible.
No-one should use a mech without a good knowledge of the limits of the battery being used.
Your initial post came across as being ignorant of those essentials so those with more knowledge than you rightly got concerned.
Good luck in your journey OP.

 

[anavidfan]

Now for something completely different.

You said you had just taken it apart and washed it.

So, if its not the battery, lets get to other possibilities...

Maybe it was not completely dry, some moisture was left somewhere and shorted it out?

Maybe you left out a part, oring, put an insulator on backwards etc.

There are a lot of maybes here.

Only similar experiences Iv had were when I forget to put my delrin insulator back on my switch. I put my battery in and it starts to autofire. OOOPs.

I cleaned one of my switches once and was lazy and did not use my air blower to dry it out. Switch got warm, took out the battery and it had a bit of residue on the neg end. Took it apart and found some moisture inside the end of where the screw attaches.

It may sound like people were picking on you, but really they are just very alarmed. Every few days there are posts here with similar situations.

We dont know you, we dont know how much experience you have or if the instructions you were given were enough or good.

Everyone is getting a bit defensive because they dont want to loose the choice of vaping and the to have the right to choose what equipment and style they can use.
I know Id be very angry if mechs were outlawed because a few people did not know how to properly use it take all the precautions like something so basic as a meter.

Id be ...... off if all reg devices over 20 watts were deemed unsafe, or if thicker wire was outlawed, so many things. But that is what is going to happen if people dont make it a point to make sure you are safely using your device.

BTW, the only time I ever had a constant hot switch was when I used magnetic switches. One was because the magnet was cracked, the other ? who knows. My personal opinion, magnets get oxidation real quick and it could be carbon, you need to keep them clean. I got rid of the magnets and put in a spring, and no more warm/hot switches.

Not saying that magnets are bad, unsafe or anything, its just my experience and opinion. Im sure there are many magnet switch fans.

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

One more thing, now that I'm thinking about it. OP, I've been using rebuildables for over two years now, and I like to think I've become pretty darn good at it. That being said, I've never built a setup with 22ga that I've been satisfied with as a nice all day vape. My issue is that the thick wire takes too freaking long to cool down, burning off excess juice and frying the wicks at times. I'm sure that others more 'pro' than me have figured it out, but my preferred mech build is 24ga dual coils right around .2 ohm using VTC4 batteries, on an RDA with sufficient airflow. Not too hot, not too cold, and as much vapor as most anyone could want. That's lower than many people are willing to go, but still very safe if you absolutely understand how every part of your setup works.

 

[wheelie]

Just a fellow Canuck. When our mods get hot we just throw them in a snowbank. LOL Entertaining thread and I enjoyed reading it. CHEERS!

 

[Bilonix]

Hey guys so i had it working for a little bit. but a new problem is happening. my button still gets hot sometimes. it sparks now, and hardly fires... i have a new battery. an LG HG2 so its not that. i have about a 0.3 ohm build, dual 22 gauge 5 wraps around a 3mm bit. i have cleaned it. but it seems like the switch is angled and on a slant and i have to press the button in a certain spot just to get it to kinda fire. its soo weird. i even talked to the guy who i got it from and he said when he had it it worked perfectly and sent me abunch of vids and he used nickle wire and it was firing so hard. idk what im doing.
See in the pic how it looks like its totally smashed into the side. and when i press the button you can tell.

 

[stormjib]

the thing is likely to explode if you keep messing around with it. your button is shorting out. got insurance?