Not more than a week ago I purchased a King mod. I kept hearing about well they vaped and how hard they hit. After using the device for the past few days...I am not impressed in the slightest. As a matter of fact...Im very disappointed. It seems my SVD hits just as well...if not maybe better. I asked my friend to use it for a while and he agreed the SVD was hitting equally as good or better. What could be the issue? I have not had it long enough for the connectors to be dirty. I am using an AW 18650 battery and a Protank. I ordered two MNKE 18650 to see if that might solve the problem, but I have yet to get them in the mail. Any suggestions?
Mech Mod Question
- Thread starter Hiram of Tyre
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The point of a mechanical mod is to wrap the coil how you want it to vape assuming output voltage around 3.7v (3.2v-4.0v) comparing a fixed voltage mechanical mod to a variable voltage svd seems strange. If the vape is too cool lower the resistance, too warm, increase resistance. If your using pre built cartridges with preset resistances, try lower resistance ones if the current ones aren't good for you.
Mechanical mods are rather limited in what they can do compared to a regulated mod. With a mechanical, you are at the mercy of the battery's voltage, which is 4.2 volts when fully charged and its downhill after that as the battery voltage declines from use.
A regulated mod like your SVD has adjustable voltage, and the power from the battery is "regulated" to the voltage setting that you set, so there is little if any perceived drop in your vaping experience as the battery drains. The regulated mod uses a computer with boost circuitry so you can increase the voltage for a stronger hit. It also has safety features built into circuitry that a mechanical mod does not have, such as hard shorts from the battery.
Different batteries are not the solution to your problem with your mechanical mod. To gain the most potential from a mechanical mod you have to choose your juice delivery attachment's resistances carefully. Lower ohms will give you a warmer vape and possibly a perception that it is "hitting" harder.
An RBA (Rebuildable Tank Atomizer) or RDA (Rebuildable Drip Atomizer) is where mechanicals come into their own, basically because you make the coil to your particular needs. I suggest reading the following article on RBAs, and then research into Micro Coils to build on an RBA or RDA.
Advice & Tips for a New RBA User
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Vape Safe Mod Fuse
A regulated mod like your SVD has adjustable voltage, and the power from the battery is "regulated" to the voltage setting that you set, so there is little if any perceived drop in your vaping experience as the battery drains. The regulated mod uses a computer with boost circuitry so you can increase the voltage for a stronger hit. It also has safety features built into circuitry that a mechanical mod does not have, such as hard shorts from the battery.
Different batteries are not the solution to your problem with your mechanical mod. To gain the most potential from a mechanical mod you have to choose your juice delivery attachment's resistances carefully. Lower ohms will give you a warmer vape and possibly a perception that it is "hitting" harder.
An RBA (Rebuildable Tank Atomizer) or RDA (Rebuildable Drip Atomizer) is where mechanicals come into their own, basically because you make the coil to your particular needs. I suggest reading the following article on RBAs, and then research into Micro Coils to build on an RBA or RDA.
Advice & Tips for a New RBA User
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Vape Safe Mod Fuse
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I have the feeling you would benefit from reading more about mechanical mods and RBAs. Baditude has a couple of great blogs on RBA's and batteries here. There is a very active forum on RBA's here.
There is a lot to it, but safety is most important. Using IMR li-ion cells is important and knowing what happens and what to do in the event of a short is vital to safety. HTH.
ETA: LOL, you beat me to it Bad
There is a lot to it, but safety is most important. Using IMR li-ion cells is important and knowing what happens and what to do in the event of a short is vital to safety. HTH.
ETA: LOL, you beat me to it Bad
I have to agree a high resistance atomizer like a protank wil work great for maybe all of 10 minutes until the battery drops below 4v.
to give you an idea of the difference most rebuildables are being wrapped with coils around 1 ohm or lower for maximum power and battery life.
get a cheap dripper, wrap up a fat .9 ohm coil and slap that on the mech, then you will change your opinion
to give you an idea of the difference most rebuildables are being wrapped with coils around 1 ohm or lower for maximum power and battery life.
get a cheap dripper, wrap up a fat .9 ohm coil and slap that on the mech, then you will change your opinion
If you have a COA with the mod, you could probably straight trade for a Reo Grand and an RM2.
18650s will transfer to the Grand.
I
So Thrasher...a 1.5 Ohm RSST should have better performance for a longer period of time than a Protank at 2.3 Ohms....Is that right?
I have a Protank II on my mech with a 1.0Ω micro-coil and it vapes great all day long. You could go that route as well.
this is correct, the thing about mechs is the battery is 4,2v only when fresh, every time you press the button you drop just a hair, meaning on a high resistance head the vape will get weaker and weaker. the first vape is strong, then for a little bit its just right , then it drops too low to power the atty correctly as something like a 2,5ohms pro coil would be around 4.5v already too high for what a mech can produce.
on a VV/VW mod you set 4.2 and get 4.2 until the battery is dead.
with a properly setup coil on a mech the vape is more like "holy crap" until the battery is very weak.
on my kayfun i run a .8 ohm coil and about the time i go huh whats wrong with the vapor?, the battery is almost dead. my gemini ( a genesis like the rsst) is .9-1.0 ohms
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Such a misleading statement that was very confusing to me when I was new. If you take a handful of devices and they all read 3.7v, they should all be producing 3.7 volts. One shouldn't be "hitting harder".
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only in the sense of a regulated mod. putting a 3.7v battery in a crappy mech does not guarantee there will be 3.7 going to the atomizer.
when it comes to mechanical VS mechanical. this is a very accurate statement with regards to the materials used in the mod, as some are more conductive then others, what kind of contacts, springs etc and the resistance of the coils used.
there is a very real and measurable voltage drop when using a device that is connected directly to the battery with no boost circuit in the way. and many designers have done a lot of work to make this drop as small as possible. most of the "hard hitting" mods have very little voltage drop so you get the maximum power the battery can deliver.
It must be remembered there is no "setting" you get what the battery gives out minus the resistance of the mod materials.
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Some people enjoy the cooler vape with a mechanical. I've started to enjoy just "LR" If I can get somewhere between 1.5-2.0 ohms from what ever I'm using, it works for me.
That's the amazing thing about Vapors. Each person is different, and each has their own taste for the pleasure.
Some juice I like very warm, and some juice I prefer a cooler vape.
Guess that's why I got so many tanks and RBA's.
That's the amazing thing about Vapors. Each person is different, and each has their own taste for the pleasure.
Some juice I like very warm, and some juice I prefer a cooler vape.
Guess that's why I got so many tanks and RBA's.
OK, so lower ohms = more heat.
And all other things being equal (or at least within a certain tolerance) it's that simple.
However, I'll add some minor clarifications that may help decipher this mech-hard-hit and RBA thing a bit.
1) The "roll your own coil" people use differing thicknesses of wire (the gauge). So lower gauge = thicker.
2) Thicker wire takes more power to heat to glowing. Watts = power. Like light bulbs.
So you see all sorts of ohm numbers depending on what wire they use as well as how many watts they want. There's charts all over the place but they are mostly for "standard" atomizers and cartos. Standard gauge is about 34 ga, as I understand it. It's not uncommon for RBA users to use 28 ga wire. That's not a requirement, just a common custom for various reasons.
3) The "Hard hit" thing is not only a function of voltage but of amperage. Here's where we put the above together along with a mech to get a "hard hit"
Basically 28 ga wire needs watts to heat it. Also thicker wire has less resistance per inch...so lower ohms. Now, what people do is wind, say, a .8 ohm coil with 28 ga wire or a 1.5 ohm coil with 30 ga wire. Or whatever.
But the battery and mod must be able to put out the necessary current at whatever it's voltage is to achieve the watts. So the "hard hit" from a mech comes from not having amp limits in the mech (batteries have them ...check specs) combined with lower ohms and heavier ga wire.
So...that's where you bump into limit with some non-mechs...they can't push the amps in all possible configurations that you'd screw onto them. However, with a little calculation and planning you can get a fine hit off anything. Note I didn't say identical. I said fine/adequate.
So when you check out RBA's...read up on ohms law. Also on how they are used. And in particular on battery safety and limits.
And all other things being equal (or at least within a certain tolerance) it's that simple.
However, I'll add some minor clarifications that may help decipher this mech-hard-hit and RBA thing a bit.
1) The "roll your own coil" people use differing thicknesses of wire (the gauge). So lower gauge = thicker.
2) Thicker wire takes more power to heat to glowing. Watts = power. Like light bulbs.
So you see all sorts of ohm numbers depending on what wire they use as well as how many watts they want. There's charts all over the place but they are mostly for "standard" atomizers and cartos. Standard gauge is about 34 ga, as I understand it. It's not uncommon for RBA users to use 28 ga wire. That's not a requirement, just a common custom for various reasons.
3) The "Hard hit" thing is not only a function of voltage but of amperage. Here's where we put the above together along with a mech to get a "hard hit"
Basically 28 ga wire needs watts to heat it. Also thicker wire has less resistance per inch...so lower ohms. Now, what people do is wind, say, a .8 ohm coil with 28 ga wire or a 1.5 ohm coil with 30 ga wire. Or whatever.
But the battery and mod must be able to put out the necessary current at whatever it's voltage is to achieve the watts. So the "hard hit" from a mech comes from not having amp limits in the mech (batteries have them ...check specs) combined with lower ohms and heavier ga wire.
So...that's where you bump into limit with some non-mechs...they can't push the amps in all possible configurations that you'd screw onto them. However, with a little calculation and planning you can get a fine hit off anything. Note I didn't say identical. I said fine/adequate.
So when you check out RBA's...read up on ohms law. Also on how they are used. And in particular on battery safety and limits.
In my own experience, YES!
I went through Protank coils pretty quick on my mech. It became obvious it was RBA time. After that there was no going back.
+1
Many of us were using mechanicals long before RBA's & sub ohm vaping even existed. In fact the FIRST "mod" ever was a mechanical.
I also agree that the OP took a common statement and used it 'out of context'. You can't adjust the mechanical to 4.5v, so of course a VV or VW will hit harder when using an off the shelf Protank. "Hitting hard(er)" is used as a comparative statement, often used to describe how a mechanical worked "out of the box" or after being modified.
My Reo hit hard right out of the box, and my DX-490 hits much harder after being modified.
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