I googled this and am getting descriptions that seem deliberately a bit vague. This implies to me there are several different commonly used methodolologies with similar effect. The similar effect though is when there is a current surge it is detected by one of several methods and the circuit is broken. The process is apparently extremely fast in all cases. So much so that possible air arcing between contact points as the connection is broken has a heavy impact on the relative speed.So how does it work? Too low voltage and auto cut off or too much over draw and auto cut off?
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Well, my little bundle of safety has arrived....
For anyone looking for safety fuses for mech mods, Vape-Cafe in Israel has them in stock.
These are resettable, and not very expensive ((75 shekels for 5 of them)
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Your kick may work in an entirely different way.tagging along here as i am interested, i do have a brand new kick but i have yet to install it LOL
Fuses iirc are not resettable. It’s basically a deliberately kind of crappy resistor that fails if the load gets to high. Generally by simply melting.I just found this on the vape safe website....
''The Vape Safe fuse goes between the mod and the negative side of your 18xxx sized battery. "Due to the extra length it will add to your battery we can not guarantee it will work in all units." 7 amp Safety fuse for use in most mods. With lithium batteries one of the biggest safety issues can come from a hard short. The fuse is a mechanical fuse that will trip if it senses a short in the mod by breaking the connection to the battery.
"While this is an extra safety feature is not a complete fail safe." The VapeSafe can also help protect variable voltage circuitry in some devices, hot springs, and other circuitry in your mod that can be damaged from a short.''
The problem here is that this is only helpful for very high ohm builds as presumably it will pop as soon as the op exceeds a 7 amp draw...but correct me if i'm wrong?
Fuses iirc are not resettable. It’s basically a deliberately kind of crappy resistor that fails if the load gets to high. Generally by simply melting.
They are short circuit protection, plain and simple. Yes, they are limited to a 7 amp current draw, which is fine for those who enjoy their mechs at or above 0.6 ohms.Yeah exactly, so basically unusable for most purposes
Not at all! They just don’t work twice is all. If your fuse blows because your battery was dumping above 7amps the battery was about to blow anyway and shouldn’t be used again in the first place. It’s not to keep your battery safe, it’s to keep your face safe.Yeah exactly, so basically unusable for most purposes
Not at all! They just don’t work twice is all. If your fuse blows because your battery was dumping above 7amps the battery was about to blow anyway and shouldn’t be used again in the first place. It’s not to keep your battery safe, it’s to keep your face safe.
Not at all! They just don’t work twice is all. If your fuse blows because your battery was dumping above 7amps the battery was about to blow anyway and shouldn’t be used again in the first place. It’s not to keep your battery safe, it’s to keep your face safe.
They are short circuit protection, plain and simple. Yes, they are limited to a 7 amp current draw, which is fine for those who enjoy their mechs at or above 0.6 ohms.
Oh I agree that the best way to be safe is knowledge and putting that knowledge into practice. I'm not going to say that a 7-amp fuse is useless though ... and in a way, it isn't really encouraging any more of a false sense of security than say trusting the short circuit protection on a regulated mod.Yes agreed so no good for me and really i think the best way to keep safe is to have a healthy fear and respect for your kit and know how to use it. These sort of devices make me worry that they will lead people to a false sense of security.
What is this phenomenon where a 15a, 20a, 30a CDR cell would be 'about to blow' with a 7a draw...