Mechanical mod questions.

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H4X0R

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Alright guys, bear with me here, I'm a newbie here who's getting into vaping. So I got me a Tesla Two box mod, unregulated and fires at 4.2V, no option to change the voltage. I just did a lot of research about this type of setup, learned that nickel coils are a definite no no for me. Also heard about instances of these batteries exploding when not used correctly. My question here, is is it safe to use something like the Uwell Crown with this? This battery's resistance goes as low as 0.1 ohms. Is there any big safety tips I should know about this battery that I'm overlooking? Need to know before I buy the Uwell Crown, I know nickel is bad for my setup, but starting with an unregulated mod was a bad idea. Thanks guys!
 

Two_Bears

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Alright guys, bear with me here, I'm a newbie here who's getting into vaping. So I got me a Tesla Two box mod, unregulated and fires at 4.2V, no option to change the voltage. I just did a lot of research about this type of setup, learned that nickel coils are a definite no no for me. Also heard about instances of these batteries exploding when not used correctly. My question here, is is it safe to use something like the Uwell Crown with this? This battery's resistance goes as low as 0.1 ohms. Is there any big safety tips I should know about this battery that I'm overlooking? Need to know before I buy the Uwell Crown, I know nickel is bad for my setup, but starting with an unregulated mod was a bad idea. Thanks guys!

I don't like mech mods but that is me.

Nickel and Titanium coils are a NO NO.

About batteries exploding.

@Mooch abd @Baditude are the battery experts read their blogs. Also study up on Ohms law.

Batteries explode or vent from two causes.

1. Building too low.
2. Repeated abuse.
 

beckdg

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3. An overlook or mishap with your gear that causes a dead short

4. Faulty charger

5. Charging a damages battery

ETA; Baditude IS NOT a battery expert. His career was in a hospital.

He's a brilliant man who's just gained an interest in battery safety and gathered a metric ton of info to help keep people safe.

No more, no less.

Admirable, indeed. But that doesn't make him an expert.

Though, I do believe @Mooch is actually a battery expert.

Tapatyped
 

H4X0R

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Thanks guys! Well, I been vaping for a few years but on a standard non variable ego battery. Only now I'm starting to get into mods and such. The guy at the vapor shop sold it to me and said "this regulates itself depending on what coil you put on it!" Well, I read about this online and saw that that was a huge lie! It's unregulated and he lied. I been doing my own research now because I'm stuck with this thing. And thanks guys! I appreciate all the answers!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

ReigntheGamer

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What I would do, keep vaping on my old "safer" setup. Then make a list of all the questions you have, then begin researching on your own. Once you have a good idea of the answers of all those questions then hop back on ECF for clarifications of anything you don't/partially understand.

I know this is not what you're looking for (instant answer) but I believe in the long run you will come to a much better understanding of what you're doing. Stay safe, vape on.
 

suprtrkr

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Well, it's not a machine I would have picked, but it has a regular 510 pin connector so it should be fairly safe using just about any topper without risking a dead short at the connector. You can not use Ni or Ti coils with it, but Stainless, Kanthal and NiCr should work just fine. If it were me, I would not put a coil on it lower than .25-.3Ω. The machine is a pure mech mod with fixed batteries. That means several things: Since the batteries are fixed, you have no way of knowing what actual batteries are in it, and therefore what loading may be safely put on it. It means 4.2V is the maximum, but voltage (and thus watts applied to the coil) will drop with every puff from 4.2 down to wherever you charge it again; the machine turns the LED red at 3.65V from what I read. Since it's a mech, and the voltage is therefore (semi) fixed, the only way you can adjust wattage is to change the coil in the topper. It is not the kind of machine I would use with a prefab coil tank. It will work, but it can be pretty frustrating unless you just happen to have a tank that offers coils at the exact resistance you like to make the vape you want. The flexibility of making your own coils is something I think of as a requirement for mechs. Use the Ohm's Law Calculator to figure out your wattage: at 4.2V, a .25 coil makes 75 watts; a .4 coil makes 44 watts; a .7 coil makes 25 watts; a 1.0 coil makes 17.5 watts and so forth. Bear in mind those wattages will decrease as the battery voltage drops.
 

ReigntheGamer

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I will probably wait on the subtank and keep using my Protank 3 for the time being. I'm learning more and more from my own research. I have people saying the crown should be fine and others saying that's a bad idea because of my unregulated setup so it's quite confusing lol

It can be daunting at first but just keep googling and reading, it's a journey not a race. :)

But it sounds like you're on the right track to me, enjoy your new toys. :thumbs:
 

xyanide

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On a sidenote to OP: don't be afraid to name and shame the store that sold a newbie an unregulated mech mod and even lied about it regulating anything. This kind of sales behavior is disgusting. The guy could have given you any modern box mod to play with.
 

H4X0R

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Well, it's not a machine I would have picked, but it has a regular 510 pin connector so it should be fairly safe using just about any topper without risking a dead short at the connector. You can not use Ni or Ti coils with it, but Stainless, Kanthal and NiCr should work just fine. If it were me, I would not put a coil on it lower than .25-.3Ω. The machine is a pure mech mod with fixed batteries. That means several things: Since the batteries are fixed, you have no way of knowing what actual batteries are in it, and therefore what loading may be safely put on it. It means 4.2V is the maximum, but voltage (and thus watts applied to the coil) will drop with every puff from 4.2 down to wherever you charge it again; the machine turns the LED red at 3.65V from what I read. Since it's a mech, and the voltage is therefore (semi) fixed, the only way you can adjust wattage is to change the coil in the topper. It is not the kind of machine I would use with a prefab coil tank. It will work, but it can be pretty frustrating unless you just happen to have a tank that offers coils at the exact resistance you like to make the vape you want. The flexibility of making your own coils is something I think of as a requirement for mechs. Use the Ohm's Law Calculator to figure out your wattage: at 4.2V, a .25 coil makes 75 watts; a .4 coil makes 44 watts; a .7 coil makes 25 watts; a 1.0 coil makes 17.5 watts and so forth. Bear in mind those wattages will decrease as the battery voltage drops.

Thanks! I watched a teardown video of this thing and it holds two 19500s inside! What I can't seem to find anywhere is the button mechanism used for this, if it's a mosfet or a metal piece that completes the circuit etc. I'm on the fence with buying a subtank, knowing my setup is a bit weird, and on a side note, it will be burning ejuice fast as hell! I'll need to start buying more than one bottle at a time! But you personally think that .25 coil would be good for this 4.2V battery? Just taking multiple opinion before doing anything, and thanks for your reply! Perfect explanation! Much appreciated!
 

H4X0R

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On a sidenote to OP: don't be afraid to name and shame the store that sold a newbie an unregulated mech mod and even lied about it regulating anything. This kind of sales behavior is disgusting. The guy could have given you any modern box mod to play with.
Will do! Y'all are wondering? It's overstockecigs! A place that sells all TKOvapor items and juices! They don't seem to even know what they're doing! The first guy I talked to actually gave me a sub ohm coil for my old standard battery that isn't even sub ohm capable! My old battery started to fail on me and then I found out that it was LITERALLY dangerous! sold me a 0.8 coil and I didn't yet have a capable mod! I had a firefly ep 700mAh battery!
 
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H4X0R

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It can be daunting at first but just keep googling and reading, it's a journey not a race. :)

But it sounds like you're on the right track to me, enjoy your new toys. :thumbs:

Thanks man! My thing I'm really into is game console and Android modding and stuff of the like, vaping like this with more expensive hardware is very new to me!
 
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suprtrkr

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Thanks! I watched a teardown video of this thing and it holds two 19500s inside! What I can't seem to find anywhere is the button mechanism used for this, if it's a mosfet or a metal piece that completes the circuit etc. I'm on the fence with buying a subtank, knowing my setup is a bit weird, and on a side note, it will be burning ejuice fast as hell! I'll need to start buying more than one bottle at a time! But you personally think that .25 coil would be good for this 4.2V battery? Just taking multiple opinion before doing anything, and thanks for your reply! Perfect explanation! Much appreciated!
No, I don't. If it has 18500s instead of 18650s, I think I wouldn't go below .3Ω. The advertising says it's good for 40 amps, and you are free to believe as much of that as you like, but I am not aware of any 20 amp 18500s. A .3Ω coil at 4.2 volts will make the amp draw 14 and the watts nearly 60. Since I can't replace the batteries, and therefore know what I have in it, I personally wouldn't go below that.
 

H4X0R

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No, I don't. If it has 18500s instead of 18650s, I think I wouldn't go below .3Ω. The advertising says it's good for 40 amps, and you are free to believe as much of that as you like, but I am not aware of any 20 amp 18500s. A .3Ω coil at 4.2 volts will make the amp draw 14 and the watts nearly 60. Since I can't replace the batteries, and therefore know what I have in it, I personally wouldn't go below that.
They are 19500s. Here is the part of the video I saw where he showed what's inside of this thing if ya wanna see it:
 

Rizzyking

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After watching that video it's a mod I wouldn't touch and think the company are being a bit deceptive as to new vaper's op included it looks more regulated then mechanical. Being in the UK it wouldn't be an issue the b&m giving me wrong information is all I would need to return it and get a refund, if I were you I'd put it in a draw and use your old setup till you can buy a regulated. Look at rx200 or cuboid on fasttech both very decent mods for the money they cost and far more suitable for you then the Tesla. I would also see if you have any recourse against the b&m as they sound completely incompetent and dishonest.
 

Endor

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The RX200 or Cuboid is a great option, but I'd be very careful buying it on Fasttech. They focus on Chinese clones, and even when it says "Authentic" or "Genuine", I still question the authenticity.

Not only that, it usually takes a month+ for shipping.

(Before the flames begin, yes, I do use Fasttech occasionally and have had decent experience with it. I'm just careful what I buy there and only purchase things I'm willing to wait for)
 

Bad Ninja

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The RX200 or Cuboid is a great option, but I'd be very careful buying it on Fasttech. They focus on Chinese clones, and even when it says "Authentic" or "Genuine", I still question the authenticity.

Not only that, it usually takes a month+ for shipping.

(Before the flames begin, yes, I do use Fasttech occasionally and have had decent experience with it. I'm just careful what I buy there and only purchase things I'm willing to wait for)


I've ordered hundreds of times from Fasttech.
If it says authentic it is.

They have a better return policy than most authentic retailers, and they
have a return center in Florida.

9-14 days to Cali is the norm for me.

Be sure your order is $20-25 or more if you opt for the free shipping, or it will take longer.

Be sure times are listed as "in stock."

Do the research and read all reviews AND discussions for each item you buy.

I trust fasttech more than 99% of all vape retailers.
 
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