Mechanical Mods: What's the Attraction?
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I second the "piece of Art"!! For me at least I got into mechanicals for no other reason than the looks. A stunning brass mod with a years worth of patina to me is like looking at fine art. A Provari, VTR, etc. are just electronics, some do a better job than others but in the end they are not art. A Maraxus on the other hand is a bad *** looking piece of art! Oh and I can take a kayfun, put it on a regulated device and set the voltage to 4.1 then take it and put it on a mechanical with a freshly charged battery which is also 4.1 volts and other than the fact they both make vapor there's no comparison between the two, the mechanical makes better vapor and better flavor.
-APV-
-ART!-
-APV-
-ART!-
-Penile Compensator!-
-ART!-
-APV-
-ART!-
-Penile Compensator!-
Not to go off topic but that sure looks like my Catalina behind the Audi in your avatar - Part Time G550/650 driver myself.
Not to go off topic too....you are absolutely right...inside our hangar in Greece - Full time GIV driver myself
George
I have enough devices with informational displays, don't need or want it from my pv. I also hate the taste and feel of a regulated unit. If someone built one with a capacitor that smoothed the output I probably wouldn't notice the difference but I figure that would require a fanny pak to carry around. As far as the safety nazis go...I figure I'm more likely to cut off a finger with my circular saw than I am to blow my face off with my vented, self made, 1.7 ohm 18650 mod. Then again I also reload my own ammo. YMMV.
You folks do realise that regardless of what the vaping community says about mechs, vendors still sell them without informing their customers of the dangers. I constantly see vendors recommending any old protected batteries. It's never the case that a vendor will give comprehensive instructions, the necessary details, about the dangers of using a mech mod. They don't take into account that nowadays people will build sub ohm coils.
Not everybody uses forums like ecf to find out any information they may need. Someone that doesn't know any better would just buy the mod, get the recommended batteries, and start using it. And i've no doubt that happens everyday. So there really isn't a universal reason to buy a mech. Imagine someone that's shopping on the net for a device that vapourizes nicotine finds something they like the look of and buys it. Whether it's a regulated device or a mech they probably don't see any difference. So think about it like that. They bought a mech because they wanted an apv and not for any other "incomprehensible" reason.
To be honest, it's going to take me a few more months until i fully understand the in's and outs of safe vaping with a mech mod. But it seems the more i read on ecf about it the more confused i get.
Not everybody uses forums like ecf to find out any information they may need. Someone that doesn't know any better would just buy the mod, get the recommended batteries, and start using it. And i've no doubt that happens everyday. So there really isn't a universal reason to buy a mech. Imagine someone that's shopping on the net for a device that vapourizes nicotine finds something they like the look of and buys it. Whether it's a regulated device or a mech they probably don't see any difference. So think about it like that. They bought a mech because they wanted an apv and not for any other "incomprehensible" reason.
To be honest, it's going to take me a few more months until i fully understand the in's and outs of safe vaping with a mech mod. But it seems the more i read on ecf about it the more confused i get.
when i came across the "mech mods" first time, i was sure thats exactly what i need... i was taken in by the variety (compared to the sparkle-egos), the looks in general and the options "to mod" them...
i needed anyway weeks, if not two months, to actually order one and while the package was still stuck in zurich, i found out that i wont like it most likely...
its because i need to adjust the device... im a heavy smoker and will be a heavy vaper... and so i need a constant supply and a reliable device... with mech mods i dont see the chance to adjust/control anything... dunno what the point is with them
i needed anyway weeks, if not two months, to actually order one and while the package was still stuck in zurich, i found out that i wont like it most likely...
its because i need to adjust the device... im a heavy smoker and will be a heavy vaper... and so i need a constant supply and a reliable device... with mech mods i dont see the chance to adjust/control anything... dunno what the point is with them
I have three mech mods now (Hcigar clone Sentinel M16, Hcigar clone King, FT clone Launcher V2) and have zero interest in getting any VV/VW mods. I love the rugged simplicity of mech mods, and can control performance by how I build my coils. I honestly don't understand why people depict running a mech mod as unsafe or rocket science... it is really pretty easy (at least IMO) but then again I have 28 years of electronics/engineering experience and Ohm's law seems as natural to me as breathing... so running my mechs with 100% reliability, safety and performance has been simple, safe and fun so far.
Some pointers for newbies:
1. Know Ohm's law. Use an Ohm's law calculator online if you have to (just google it). This is really simple math.
2. Have a multimeter and learn how to use it properly. If you don't have one, get one. They range in price, but even the cheap ones are good enough to add to your Vape Kit. Harbor Freight has them for under $10. A small but necessary investment. Youtube has lots of videos showing how to operate it.
3. Know your battery current limitations. Example: Efest 18650 2000 mAh batteries have a 10A limit. If you don't know your battery current limits, search these forums or use google. With a little work you can find this info easily.
4. Now it's time for some simple math...we need to determine what 80% of your battery's limit is. let's call this the "do not exceed current threshold" Example: with a battery rated for 10 Amps, 10 amps x 80% = 8 amps... so you do not want to exceed 8 amps in your build. This gives you plenty of safety cushion just in case your multimeter gives you false readings, your battery was made wrong at the factory, you screw up your coil build, or just to have peace of mind. Easy.
5. More simple math. Calculate the lowest resistance you can use while staying under your "do not exceed current threshold". You can use your online ohm's law calculator, maximum battery voltage number, and some resistance estimates to determine what any given resistance will produce for current. Remember, you are trying to get you close (but not over) to the "do not exceed current threshold". Example: The Efest 18650 battery comes off the charger with a maximum of 4.2 volts. Using a 0.6 ohm resistance, you will get 7 amps current ( 4.2 volts divided by 0.6 ohms = 7 amps) which is safe, since 7 is less than our 8 amp "do not exceed current threshold". Using a 0.5 ohm resistance would push us over the threshold (4.2 / 0.5 = 8.4... 8.4 > 8 = potentially unsafe). So, now we know that as long as our load ("topper", atomizer, RDA, RBA, carto, whatever) is 0.6 ohms or more, we are HIGHLY unlikely to have any problems with our battery going into overload.
6. Understand this: There is NO REQUIREMENT to go under 1 ohm to make good, flavorful, voluminous vapor. I get all the taste, throat hit and vapor I need at 1.4-1.8 ohms. At these resistance levels, any reasonable battery will have a long/safe/productive life. If you simply HAVE to try sub-ohm vaping, stay above your "do not exceed amps threshold" as described above and you are still pretty dang safe.
7. Go and build some coils, then confirm their resistance with your multimeter. Experiment and have fun with your gear. I use 28 gauge Kanthal for everything, just personal preference. Google and youtube to your heart's content to learn how to build, install, wick and test coils. You will quickly learn how to identify and correct shorts, opens, hotspots, etc. Get your hands dirty and enjoy yourself.
Some pointers for newbies:
1. Know Ohm's law. Use an Ohm's law calculator online if you have to (just google it). This is really simple math.
2. Have a multimeter and learn how to use it properly. If you don't have one, get one. They range in price, but even the cheap ones are good enough to add to your Vape Kit. Harbor Freight has them for under $10. A small but necessary investment. Youtube has lots of videos showing how to operate it.
3. Know your battery current limitations. Example: Efest 18650 2000 mAh batteries have a 10A limit. If you don't know your battery current limits, search these forums or use google. With a little work you can find this info easily.
4. Now it's time for some simple math...we need to determine what 80% of your battery's limit is. let's call this the "do not exceed current threshold" Example: with a battery rated for 10 Amps, 10 amps x 80% = 8 amps... so you do not want to exceed 8 amps in your build. This gives you plenty of safety cushion just in case your multimeter gives you false readings, your battery was made wrong at the factory, you screw up your coil build, or just to have peace of mind. Easy.
5. More simple math. Calculate the lowest resistance you can use while staying under your "do not exceed current threshold". You can use your online ohm's law calculator, maximum battery voltage number, and some resistance estimates to determine what any given resistance will produce for current. Remember, you are trying to get you close (but not over) to the "do not exceed current threshold". Example: The Efest 18650 battery comes off the charger with a maximum of 4.2 volts. Using a 0.6 ohm resistance, you will get 7 amps current ( 4.2 volts divided by 0.6 ohms = 7 amps) which is safe, since 7 is less than our 8 amp "do not exceed current threshold". Using a 0.5 ohm resistance would push us over the threshold (4.2 / 0.5 = 8.4... 8.4 > 8 = potentially unsafe). So, now we know that as long as our load ("topper", atomizer, RDA, RBA, carto, whatever) is 0.6 ohms or more, we are HIGHLY unlikely to have any problems with our battery going into overload.
6. Understand this: There is NO REQUIREMENT to go under 1 ohm to make good, flavorful, voluminous vapor. I get all the taste, throat hit and vapor I need at 1.4-1.8 ohms. At these resistance levels, any reasonable battery will have a long/safe/productive life. If you simply HAVE to try sub-ohm vaping, stay above your "do not exceed amps threshold" as described above and you are still pretty dang safe.
7. Go and build some coils, then confirm their resistance with your multimeter. Experiment and have fun with your gear. I use 28 gauge Kanthal for everything, just personal preference. Google and youtube to your heart's content to learn how to build, install, wick and test coils. You will quickly learn how to identify and correct shorts, opens, hotspots, etc. Get your hands dirty and enjoy yourself.
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Personally, I enjoy both styles of pv's. I enjoy mech mods for the simplicity..but I only enjoy them if I am vaping at 2 ohms and below. I don't do subohm for personal reasons and I don't feel this is teh place to share said opinions. I have been vaping for a long time and I love both, mech mods are nice and easy to fix if things go wrong, which isn't much. Threading is easy to fix..contacts are an easy fix ect. VW/VV mods require knowledge of circuit boards to a decent extent to repair anything wrong with them, and it is a PITA to fix them..all VW/VV mods aren't going to last FOREVER..especially ones that have the built in batteries (ego's, mvp ect ect) so in essense. they will be disposable after years and years of use. That can be argued but is pretty much true.
Mech mods are simple adn will last forever with correct upkeep(lubing threads, safety knoweldge and battery replacement with the occasional contact replacement) and require only safety knowledge and only a slight mechanical knowledge to replace and upkeep parts. As others have stated you do NOT have to run sub ohm for mechs..however it is a little silly to run 2.6ohms on a mech if you are looking for the ideal vape as you could potentially get a better one from customizing wattage and volts through VV/VW devices. But vapes are subjective to the user!
Mech mods are simple adn will last forever with correct upkeep(lubing threads, safety knoweldge and battery replacement with the occasional contact replacement) and require only safety knowledge and only a slight mechanical knowledge to replace and upkeep parts. As others have stated you do NOT have to run sub ohm for mechs..however it is a little silly to run 2.6ohms on a mech if you are looking for the ideal vape as you could potentially get a better one from customizing wattage and volts through VV/VW devices. But vapes are subjective to the user!
when i came across the "mech mods" first time, i was sure thats exactly what i need... i was taken in by the variety (compared to the sparkle-egos), the looks in general and the options "to mod" them...
i needed anyway weeks, if not two months, to actually order one and while the package was still stuck in zurich, i found out that i wont like it most likely...
its because i need to adjust the device... im a heavy smoker and will be a heavy vaper... and so i need a constant supply and a reliable device... with mech mods i dont see the chance to adjust/control anything... dunno what the point is with them
I can adjust w/ a mech mod, vapor warmth, vapor density, plumes, flavor and TH; from mild to overkill.
VV/VW mod is not a good crutch for a poorly performing topper.
you cant run alot of subohm tanks on them which is ok but in my opinon i like mechs also cause you get direct power from the battery and simply theres alot less that could go wrong with it!! no circuit boards or wires that could go faulty just a button your battery tank!
You lost me. Are you talking about regulated mods?
I'm using a sub-ohm cloud chaser tank that keeps up w/ trident and IGO-W w/o need for constant dripping.
I have no idea why anyone would want to have an electronic device that provides power to a heating element without some sort of protection from over current and fire. I am an electrician and completely understand the principle but this is just asking for trouble. I would at least like to know there was some sort of over current protection to break the circuit before it catches on fire or explodes. Not to mention that lithium ion batteries are an excellent form of explosive when ignited. Things like this are what gives the sensible vapers a bad name and makes regulatory entities want to get involved. To protect the few from themselves. Another reason for BG to get involved. 
Mechs are mostly about being able to push sub ohm coils to high vapor limits. Most VV/VW mods have upper amperage cutoff circuits to protect the user and the battery.
The argument about pulsed DC vs battery voltage may not be as important as many think. The incandescent light bulbs in your house (everyone still has some) run at 60hz (actually 120 if you count the positive and negative transitions of one cycle). The light bulb doesn't flicker because it takes a few milliseconds for the electron flow to slow down between voltage rises and the filament stays hot.
Whether a mech has constant DC voltage or a Provari or any other VV device has a particular frequency may not make that much different in the heat of the vapor. Your atomizer coil also takes a while to cool between pulses. My Provari does sound smoother than my Sigelei Zmaz, but I detect no difference in vapor at the same settings. There could be some difference in wire size and the number of coils it takes to reach your favorite resistance level, though. I like 2 ohm coils better than 3 ohm coils.
Huge clouds may be impressive but the amount of PG or VG you inhale may not be really good for your lungs. Both are an irritant and that's listed in the safety information (the MSDS for USP grade from the manufacturer). When PG is said to be considered safe to vape, it was tested at normal atomizer heat levels. If you get too hot, the coil can produce acrolein from glycerin/glycol. Acrolein is a lung cancer risk and it's one of the by-products of cigarette smoke.
Acrolein - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
If you vape at high temps or sub ohms, you may never produce acrolein, but then again it's a real risk that is very damaging to lung tissue. Keep that coil as cool as you can to avoid burning the juice. Be careful! Glycerol and PG/VG are kissing cousins. PG is also used as a humectant in cigarette tobacco. That cherry red coal on the end is my suspected high heat culprit for the acrolein production of cigarettes.
Don't beat me up, guys. I'm just trying to pass on some information that is crucial for safety if you take vaping to the outer limits of the technology.
The argument about pulsed DC vs battery voltage may not be as important as many think. The incandescent light bulbs in your house (everyone still has some) run at 60hz (actually 120 if you count the positive and negative transitions of one cycle). The light bulb doesn't flicker because it takes a few milliseconds for the electron flow to slow down between voltage rises and the filament stays hot.
Whether a mech has constant DC voltage or a Provari or any other VV device has a particular frequency may not make that much different in the heat of the vapor. Your atomizer coil also takes a while to cool between pulses. My Provari does sound smoother than my Sigelei Zmaz, but I detect no difference in vapor at the same settings. There could be some difference in wire size and the number of coils it takes to reach your favorite resistance level, though. I like 2 ohm coils better than 3 ohm coils.
Huge clouds may be impressive but the amount of PG or VG you inhale may not be really good for your lungs. Both are an irritant and that's listed in the safety information (the MSDS for USP grade from the manufacturer). When PG is said to be considered safe to vape, it was tested at normal atomizer heat levels. If you get too hot, the coil can produce acrolein from glycerin/glycol. Acrolein is a lung cancer risk and it's one of the by-products of cigarette smoke.
Acrolein - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
If you vape at high temps or sub ohms, you may never produce acrolein, but then again it's a real risk that is very damaging to lung tissue. Keep that coil as cool as you can to avoid burning the juice. Be careful! Glycerol and PG/VG are kissing cousins. PG is also used as a humectant in cigarette tobacco. That cherry red coal on the end is my suspected high heat culprit for the acrolein production of cigarettes.
Don't beat me up, guys. I'm just trying to pass on some information that is crucial for safety if you take vaping to the outer limits of the technology.
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I have no idea why anyone would want to have an electronic device that provides power to a heating element without some sort of protection from over current and fire. I am an electrician and completely understand the principle but this is just asking for trouble. I would at least like to know there was some sort of over current protection to break the circuit before it catches on fire or explodes. Not to mention that lithium ion batteries are an excellent form of explosive when ignited. Things like this are what gives the sensible vapers a bad name and makes regulatory entities want to get involved. To protect the few from themselves. Another reason for BG to get involved.
In the interest of learning more - and I've learned a lot from this thread, thanks guys - what scenarios using a mech could lead to over current and fire? I know the firing button sticking is one issue, which is why some switches use magnets.
If the switch get stuck or it fires in your pocket or falls down in the "crack monster" and is continually depressed it will heat and burn until either the coil burns in two " an open circuit" or catches fire. This is how a fuse works. It gets hot and burns in two therefore "opens" the circuit. Without it you are relying on the coil acting as a fuse or if it doesn't, FIRE! That's what I am talking about. There is a published form of literature that governs all electrical installations called the National Electrical Code written to prevent these things from happening. Most of the conditions spelled out in it are there because someone somewhere has neglected to take safety into account and caused death or destruction. The articles are written in blood. Literally! If anyone wants to use one of these devices it is their prerogative but for me, I want some sort of over current device between me and my stupidity or neglect. This is just my own opinion. I am just sharing my knowledge.
Which explains the button locks on mechs. Thanks for the answer. I'm just trying to get a good solid understanding of the real-world issues with mechs.
Don't get me wrong, I am sorry if I offended. I know there are others out there that disagree with me. I just know how many times I have fallen asleep or passed out with an analog in my hand only to wake up on fire or with the twin blisters between my fingers in the morning. I was told some time ago that wisdom is not becoming smarter but lengthening our list of mistakes to draw from in similar circumstances. Hopefully we learn from them as life goes on. I just don't want someone that doesn't understand what they are dealing with making mistakes that someone else has already learned from. That's all. Thanks for the conversation. 
I agree, however, simple added precautions can be taken. I have 2 MM's, one with a safety ring on the bottom button, one with no safety on it. On both, anytime they are left unattended, either the battery is removed, or the RBA is removed, or both. Simple fix that guarantees no accidental firing. There is no defense against stupidity or neglect, such as leaving ANY MM in your pocket, purse, etc. without thinking ahead about the dangers of doing so.
BTW, button locks DO NOT guarantee a safe MM. If some mods are screwed too tight, they can still fire regardless of button position.
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With these in place and operational would be ok. The thing is that these mechs are being so glorified and when placed in the wrong hands could be asking for trouble. I do things in my profession that are not the best practices but I have been doing it for over 30 years and know exactly what I'm dealing with. I liken this to asking a new apprentice to perform the same tasks I do. Not a good idea. I believe anything can be made safer if put into the right hands with forethought. Without having the correct knowledge or safeguards in place, trouble is looming!
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