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Cheaper rebuild and variation.
just wash, coil, burn and roll.
Nicer and expensive atty.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
just wash, coil, burn and roll.
Nicer and expensive atty.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Ooh good for you! Maintenance really depends on your learning curve. I remember first trying to mesh and recoil my vivi and getting all those dry hits, when my knots between the silver wire and kanthal keep dropping off on my Pen. After a few tries you will get good yah?
The best thing about it is that you will know how things work and save yourself alot of frustration. You can get things right faster and tune the setup to what you want.
With just a few cm of kanthal, mesh and bamboo yarn, I get my penelope set up to 1.5 ohms and match it to my cube (mechanical). Washing and rewiring every week is a 15 minute affair. For about a year now, never had a mistake. Its that simple. Or I can set my fake cobra (cheap, cheap), up to 2.5 ohms. and vape at 4.5volts on the provari. Takes about five minutes and cost probably 50cents in kanthal and mesh.... per month!
The best thing about it is that you will know how things work and save yourself alot of frustration. You can get things right faster and tune the setup to what you want.
With just a few cm of kanthal, mesh and bamboo yarn, I get my penelope set up to 1.5 ohms and match it to my cube (mechanical). Washing and rewiring every week is a 15 minute affair. For about a year now, never had a mistake. Its that simple. Or I can set my fake cobra (cheap, cheap), up to 2.5 ohms. and vape at 4.5volts on the provari. Takes about five minutes and cost probably 50cents in kanthal and mesh.... per month!
i run a REO with an A7 rebuildable on the top - you can rebuild coils for Nova tanks too. When i change juices i just run the bottle that holds the liquid and the entire atomizer under warm water to clean them and then good to go.
Unless you plan on buying coils already made then i'd suggest you practice making them - a lot! It can be extremely frustrating when they don't work or fail prematurely, but with a bit (in my case about 2 months!!) of practice you can make good coils that will last well. My latest one has been going well for over 3 weeks now and that's comparable to what i achieved using a tank.
I also recommend getting something like a 'helping hands' and a decent magnifying glass. My preferred setup for wick now is unbleached wool, made from cotton that i have boiled and then wrapped in a bit of oxidised SS mesh in the centre. Then wrap a coil on top. The wool wicks well - and helps fit in the confined space you will have in a rebuildable.
T
Unless you plan on buying coils already made then i'd suggest you practice making them - a lot! It can be extremely frustrating when they don't work or fail prematurely, but with a bit (in my case about 2 months!!) of practice you can make good coils that will last well. My latest one has been going well for over 3 weeks now and that's comparable to what i achieved using a tank.
I also recommend getting something like a 'helping hands' and a decent magnifying glass. My preferred setup for wick now is unbleached wool, made from cotton that i have boiled and then wrapped in a bit of oxidised SS mesh in the centre. Then wrap a coil on top. The wool wicks well - and helps fit in the confined space you will have in a rebuildable.
T
AAaaahhh! Sodez neh! I know what you talking about.
If I am rebuilding something I am VERY sure of like my Odyseus. It is a non-issue coz I always end up between 1.4 and 1.6 ohm, (confidence comes with lots of practice). Which is not a problem on my Povari usually set between 3.5 to 4.
If I am rebuilding my DID or fake cobra genesis yadayada... and have to try work out the hotspots and shorts, a mechanical is preferred cause the shorts cause the provari to activate its built-in protection. After setting up I just shift back to the provari cause it is still easiest to monitor the resistance changes in the coil with the provari.
Right now I am vaping my fake cobra set at up at 2.2 ohms on my provari mini 5 volts. Lots of flavor, lots of TH, lots of smoke. No problem.
If I am rebuilding something I am VERY sure of like my Odyseus. It is a non-issue coz I always end up between 1.4 and 1.6 ohm, (confidence comes with lots of practice). Which is not a problem on my Povari usually set between 3.5 to 4.
If I am rebuilding my DID or fake cobra genesis yadayada... and have to try work out the hotspots and shorts, a mechanical is preferred cause the shorts cause the provari to activate its built-in protection. After setting up I just shift back to the provari cause it is still easiest to monitor the resistance changes in the coil with the provari.
Right now I am vaping my fake cobra set at up at 2.2 ohms on my provari mini 5 volts. Lots of flavor, lots of TH, lots of smoke. No problem.
AAaaahhh! Sodez neh! I know what you talking about.
If I am rebuilding something I am VERY sure of like my Odyseus. It is a non-issue coz I always end up between 1.4 and 1.6 ohm, (confidence comes with lots of practice). Which is not a problem on my Povari usually set between 3.5 to 4.
If I am rebuilding my DID or fake cobra genesis yadayada... and have to try work out the hotspots and shorts, a mechanical is preferred cause the shorts cause the provari to activate its built-in protection. After setting up I just shift back to the provari cause it is still easiest to monitor the resistance changes in the coil with the provari.
Right now I am vaping my fake cobra set at up at 2.2 ohms on my provari mini 5 volts. Lots of flavor, lots of TH, lots of smoke. No problem.
The resistance will flux?
I've seen from my friend's stash he has pre-oxidized mesh and non-oxidized. How does the VTF differ using a pre-oxidized mesh?
Yup. It is a safety feature of Provari and its a good thing. Well not that you can't use a LR on a Provari, just that if you attempt to fire it at a high voltage, the safety cut will kick in. Mech mods are normally at 3.7v regulated so pairing it with LR gives better throat hit and flavour AKA more kick.
If you already have a VV, go ahead with LR but do make sure you start with low voltage and work your way up.
IMO good RBA to start with are A7, Pheonix, AGA T or S, or any clones. Of course nothing stops you going straight into the higher end ones like cobra, ZAP. Penelope etc.
Mech mods: Too many, ego, smoktech bolt etc. Or go for unconventional like box mods, bottom feeder etc. BTW I just got my bogger box mini mech mod and it is so damn basic and cute!
sgvap22 is right about the safety cut. It is a good thing. But I've been using resistance as low as 1.3 ohms on my provari. Only you got to be careful with the voltage. I believe the safety cut is wattage dependant? So you still can use the Provari on LR, just be careful.
Yes and no. The initial resistance is normally lower and will stabilize at anywhere from .1 to .3 ohm higher after about 30 minutes of anealing.(did I spell it correct?) After which it is pretty constant for days.
Unoxidised mesh is impossible to use as it touches your kanthal coil and causes a short. That is why we oxidise our mesh. It is very simple actually. Say 1cm of 32 AWG gives approximately 0.4 ohms of resistance and you got 4cm wrapped around your mesh. The mesh has a badly oxidised spot touching the kanthal at the 1cm spot and so instead of 1.6ohms of resistance you get a 0.4 ohms. Even 3 volts with anything will pop that coil.
Your friend has the unoxidised mesh to roll and oxidise before he coils it into the atty. Its really simple actually, not at first but practise will make you better.
Sgvap22 gave some good advise regarding choice. I would like to add that in the end, its your choice of power, resistance and e-liquid that dictates your TH, smoke and flavor. I love my cobra clone to bits, greatest flavor and smoke like a train!
Sitting here vaping my perfectly coiled and perfectly shiny odyseus matched with my highly reliable provari, is another thing altogether.
Yes and no. The initial resistance is normally lower and will stabilize at anywhere from .1 to .3 ohm higher after about 30 minutes of anealing.(did I spell it correct?) After which it is pretty constant for days.
Unoxidised mesh is impossible to use as it touches your kanthal coil and causes a short. That is why we oxidise our mesh. It is very simple actually. Say 1cm of 32 AWG gives approximately 0.4 ohms of resistance and you got 4cm wrapped around your mesh. The mesh has a badly oxidised spot touching the kanthal at the 1cm spot and so instead of 1.6ohms of resistance you get a 0.4 ohms. Even 3 volts with anything will pop that coil.
Your friend has the unoxidised mesh to roll and oxidise before he coils it into the atty. Its really simple actually, not at first but practise will make you better.
Sgvap22 gave some good advise regarding choice. I would like to add that in the end, its your choice of power, resistance and e-liquid that dictates your TH, smoke and flavor. I love my cobra clone to bits, greatest flavor and smoke like a train!
Sitting here vaping my perfectly coiled and perfectly shiny odyseus matched with my highly reliable provari, is another thing altogether.
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