Best mechanical mods - advice pls?

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jasl90

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Ok... This just has too much stupid to leave alone...
The only way to provide a dc signal is to regulate a capacitor big enough to contain the entire charge while firing, that kind of capacitor would be bigger than your fist (and cost even more).
DC signals don't have to be flat to be DC. If you've ever seen the output signal of a ProVari or a Kick on an ociliscope, you'll see that they do, in fact put out a flat DC signal.
The kick (just like almost all other boost converters) uses a switching inductor circuit which creates a saw wave output, it has been smoothed out with a capacitor and high frequency switching but its still not DC.
Yes it is. As a matter of fact, it's rather difficult to convert a DC signal to AC (at least compared to converting AC into DC). Just because a signal is pulsed or has a wave pattern, doesn't mean that it's not a DC signal... It means that it's not a "flat" DC signal.
Also, there is no such thing as a "switching inductor". The are switching regulators that control the the open and closed states of mosfets which in turn pulses power to an inductor.
FYI... a popular name for this type of circuit is "DC to DC converter".
FYI #2... All the pulsed outputs that I've seen a square wave outputs... Not saw tooth.
Also i highly doubt that switching affects the taste even a little bit, at 100hz (most regulated devices are way faster) the temperature in an average 2.5 ohm 0.2mm kanthal coil would fluctuate less than 3% because of it. Ever seen a light bulb? They switch at around 60hz, yet if they flickered at 60hz everybody would be very grumpy because of their massive headaches.
I haven't looked at or touched a regulated Chinese mod in over 6 months but the last time I looked they were using a 33.3hz PWM. Slow enough to be audible... Kinda like base ball cards in bike spokes. I couldn't notice the difference in vape quality myself but others could.
 

platinum321

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Well, that may be...but the Nemesis can also double as a Lightsaber and on the Celeste model if you UP+DOWN+BACK+BACK and then fire it twice real quick the Nemesis Angel comes off and does an awesome finish move.

Seriously though, purely aesthetics. For my taste the Celeste Nemesis is the most beautiful mech I have seen.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

If we're talking purely aesthetics for me it is the Poldiac utilizing brass and stainless like the UMA. Black Tie PV anyone?
 

icyice

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and why would i make a sub ohm coil?

LOOOOOOOOL


To the Op:

IMO sub ohm+unregulated*(mech) >>>>>>>>>> SR or LR + Regulated Device (VV/VW)

much more flavor and vapor with a sub ohm. as long as you do your research and know what you're doing you will be fine. I have tried both, building at higher ohms using a regulated device, (Vamo&Provari) and also Sub Ohm RBAs with a Mech, (KTS&K1) and I can personally say Sub Ohm vaping is the way to go, I got all my friends hooked on it simply because it is a BETTER vape. Although this is all subjective, it seems to be quite obvious that Sub Ohm>SR/LR's.
 

Covert

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Due to owning DNA's I can notice both the difference in vape quality and the micro pulses. I have a bit of OCD and it drives me bat*&# crazy. That and how they keep firing for a sec after you've let off the fire button lol.
Ok...
I haven't looked at or touched a regulated Chinese mod in over 6 months but the last time I looked they were using a 33.3hz PWM. Slow enough to be audible... Kinda like base ball cards in bike spokes. I couldn't notice the difference in vape quality myself but others could.
 

Clearo-Mizer

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did some likes and just realized that this thread was started back in april...

oh well. i likes my poldiac - last mech mod you ever need. once you get a poldiac, all other mods that you buy will be just to change the look; the only upgrade from a poldiac is two poldiacs.

agreed...i am ready for #2
 

motelgrim

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My go-to is a 1 ohm RBA on a mech. As a rule though, it burns the juice. Before you all get up in arms and tell me I must have a hot leg or a short, it's not frying the liquid like a hot leg does, it's just too harsh for decent flavor. Some juices can handle it, some can't. Vanilla Custard on a 1 Ohm Rba with SS mesh, tastes like .... It tends to like 3.7 and below for great flavor with that liquid and you can only do that with a regulated VV mod.

I've been debating on whether to get a nice mech as my only mech is a Smoktech telescope and an old Bolt, or just commit to an SVD or Vamo.

There is just something so nice about the simplicity of a mech.

On a side note, I switched to silica in my AGA-t (4 strands through to the tank and 4 wraps of 28 awg) and the flavor is much better. I can almost vape custard in it and not feel that I'm betraying anything.

More on point, I'm eyeing the Sigelei #19 and #20. Particularly, I like the 19 for it's ability, with a mod add-on, to turn into a hybrid with certain RBA's. Anyone try that yet?
 

Larzis

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did some likes and just realized that this thread was started back in april...

oh well. i likes my poldiac - last mech mod you ever need. once you get a poldiac, all other mods that you buy will be just to change the look; the only upgrade from a poldiac is two poldiacs.

Well.... All a matter of personal taste. Like for me, did not care for the Poldiac one bit. Just not my thing. GP LUX, LOVE it.

On the higher end side of things I think we have hit a point where there are a good deal of very nice mods that are all comparable. And I think this is a good thing!

My other love is the Empire. The only upgrade from an Empire is two Empires!
 

vapo jam

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My go-to is a 1 ohm RBA on a mech. As a rule though, it burns the juice. Before you all get up in arms and tell me I must have a hot leg or a short, it's not frying the liquid like a hot leg does, it's just too harsh for decent flavor. Some juices can handle it, some can't. Vanilla Custard on a 1 Ohm Rba with SS mesh, tastes like .... It tends to like 3.7 and below for great flavor with that liquid and you can only do that with a regulated VV mod.

I've been debating on whether to get a nice mech as my only mech is a Smoktech telescope and an old Bolt, or just commit to an SVD or Vamo.

There is just something so nice about the simplicity of a mech.

On a side note, I switched to silica in my AGA-t (4 strands through to the tank and 4 wraps of 28 awg) and the flavor is much better. I can almost vape custard in it and not feel that I'm betraying anything.

More on point, I'm eyeing the Sigelei #19 and #20. Particularly, I like the 19 for it's ability, with a mod add-on, to turn into a hybrid with certain RBA's. Anyone try that yet?

have you tried a k100/k101? it performs incredibly well right out of the box without having to mod it, and is very cheap (under $30 from fasttech).

i'd disagree, though, that low or sub-ohm coils necessarily burn the juice - i've tried juices at .2 ohms that tasted incredible (disclaimer: please don't try to build a .2 ohm coil, i made a miscalculation building a dual-coil that ended up working decently, but i did take it apart after less than a day out of concern for my own safety...). i think it has much more to do with certain juices tasting better at lower power; sub-ohm coils tend to greatly intensify the flavor, and some flavors just taste bad when they're too intense.
 

evgeny131

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as far as mechanicals- save up for a poldiac- its an INCREDIBLY crafted functioning device- i dont ever leave home without one....
 

sahsah

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Its quite alright to disagree...But I have to disagree with your comparison...its NOT like comparing a prothing and a Vamo...(I have vaped them side by side and there is not alot if difference...I actually prefer the vamo because of the menu..but that is another discussion)
its not a good comparison because basically in a mech the only things that count are sturdy build, switch and voltage drop to the 510...as long as these three things are all good then its up to the delivery devise to do its job.

the KTS is amazing for the price..compared to the GG its almost spec clone..the threading is smooth but the tubes are a tad thinner..and when I put the meter on it and fire it ..it has less than a .0010volt drop from the battery ..so hey I am very happy with it.

the Chi Chi is looking very promising magnetic switching, very heavy tubing...gonna torch mine :laugh:

As long as the "luxury" modders starve the market with the intention to create "rarity" designed to bolster the 250 dollar price tag for a piece of turned stainless and a switch and a 510 connector...china mods will be here to gladly "feed the market"

Ethics I wont go into...thats another discussion and I think we both know where each other stand on that issue :toast:...no need to get it all cranked up in this post.
Was that voltage drop under load because I would find the figure provided to be quite hard to believe
 

minimalsaint

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My favorite tube mechanical is my Gus- obtainable, won't break the bank and performs well.
As for other styles, I did just get a REO and it is pretty awesome, and I also have a GLV super mini that goes everywhere with me. The thing is a little beast.
There are lots of options, you just need to find a good mix of performance and aesthetics that works for you.
 

emus

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Some switches have smooth actuation but high voltage drop due to insufficient contact surface area to body.
Some have low voltage drop but tend to be scratchy/binding due to larger poorly machined contact to body.
Voltage drop is more important in sub-ohm applications; some switches actually get hot during sub-ohm.
I have no problem using a 1.4 ohm coil on a slightly high voltage drop switch.

It is good to have a close tolerance switch who's sliding bits contact a large surface area of female switch housing.

See the female meat on chemy switch. Low voltage drop but scratchy if poorly machined.
 

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