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the kick effectively turns it into a weak regulated mod with reduced battery space so why not get a proper regulated one to begin with?
that was already answered... Sub-ohm coils
The Kick has an amp limit and won't fire depending on your wattage setting and the atomizer's resistance. I think the max wattage for a Kick is 10W - not terribly exciting for a sub-ohm coil.
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IMHO: Performance wise... Poldiac & Nemesis. Other good mods are the 69, gp paps v2.1 with the upgraded lux kit, roller. (I don't own a Chi you or Caravela but they are highly sought due to their rarity, so I can't comment on their performance.) I've had others and traded them off but the ones I listed are keepers. I don't care for 'copies'. Again, just my opinions. Perhaps you can corroborate them with reviewers on youtube. I have the ELA on pre-order and am looking forward to having my first Super T mod as well as the Astro from KoreaVape.
It is not upgrading nor is it downgrading..... It's just two different ways of vaping all together lol. I personally like 0.8 ohm wraps on my mechs and 1.5 ohm wraps on my DNA20 at 13 watts. I love both my regulated and unregulated mods,but I prefer my mechs for some reason. I just ordered two ELA's which will be the last mod I purchase for the foreseeable future.
I think the point was to bypass the kick altogether as it would limit the ability for SLR vaping significantly - Straight Mechanical - SLR coil = Nirvana (for some
)Firestorm - I know you already knew that .. just putting in my
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Yeah, I knew what the point was, but the "SLR!" response to the Kick post seemed weird so I wanted people not to think that a Kick should be used for sub-ohm coils. People can certainly do what they want, but personally, I think a Kick is much more suited for a cheap tube mod like a Bolt (that's what I use mine with) or something nicer like a Silver Bullet. I only put mechanical fuses in my mechanical mod, but that's just my preference.
Sorry...
I took the question from the post and answered it...
"the kick effectively turns it into a weak regulated mod with reduced battery space so why not get a proper regulated one to begin with?"
At leasts if you get a good mechanical and use a Kick, you have the option of not neutering your device with limits by simply removing the Kick... You get a "proper" regulated one... you remove that option.
Absolutely - I completely agree that you have that option. I prefer to use a mechanical fuse with my GP Paps and I use my Kick in my Bolt.
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The only way to provide a dc signal is to regulate a capacitor big enough to contain the entire charge while firing, that kind of capacitor would be bigger than your fist (and cost even more). The kick (just like almost all other boost converters) uses a switching inductor circuit which creates a saw wave output, it has been smoothed out with a capacitor and high frequency switching but its still not DC. Also i highly doubt that switching affects the taste even a little bit, at 100hz (most regulated devices are way faster) the temperature in an average 2.5 ohm 0.2mm kanthal coil would fluctuate less than 3% because of it. Ever seen a light bulb? They switch at around 60hz, yet if they flickered at 60hz everybody would be very grumpy because of their massive headaches.
you are only trading one for another, voltage for amperes. By adjusting the amount of wraps and the thickness of the coil wire you can achieve the same exact result at either 5V 3A or 3V 5A, the difference is that a regulated device is more versatile.
Personally i use 5 wraps of 0.5x0.1 kanthal (comes out to around 1.6 ohms) which the vamo has no problems running up to at 15w, all though i usually run it at 10w. Another mistake many people make is that they make their wicks too heavy and dont heat insulate it from the rest of the RBA which is why they need huge amounts of watts to heat it up properly. I use a thin layer of SS mesh around 3mm silica in my rsst (which is by default both heat and electrically insulated with a little rubber ring between the inner SS washer that touches the wick and the deck).
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RBA is a different world than the stock solutions.
Low Ohms vaping is superior to higher.
I've played around with building the higher ohm coils and vaping at higher Volts and they just can't match the
vape of a Low Res Coil.
Sorry for the delayed response... Just saw this...
I hate to break it to you... you are wrong.
Vaping a 1.67 Ohm coil at 5V (15 Watts, 3amps)
Is not even remotely similar to
Vaping a 0.6 Ohm coil at 3V (15 Watts, 5amps)
in actual usage.
It's just not... not that I ever vape at that low a voltage... so let's use real numbers:
0.74 Ohm coil at 3.7V (18.5 Watts, 5amps)
vs
1.35 Ohm coil at 5V (18.5 Watts, 3.7amps)
The Latter would run the risk of producing a wonderful burnt juice taste... 18.5 Watts at 5v, is just dumb.
While the former is pretty damn close to my all day vape and never tastes burnt... 18.5 Watts at 3.7v with 28 gauge wire...is an epicly enjoyable vape.
If you are using an RBA on a Vamo, and using it as your reference... you have no idea what you are missing.
You also clearly don't understand why we use huge wicks (to keep up with the amount of juice vaporized)
BUT back to my original point (that you don't even seem to be responding to)...
A Mechanical with a Kick allows to you vape regulated, or remove it and go SLR
a regulated mod... well... doesn't.
Thus...
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I've seen the K100 around for as $24 shipped, good value. I'm not into telescopic mods myself, but lots of people rave about the K100. Personally, I think the Sigelei #8 is a better deal. With a few minor modifications (light sanding to get internal connections down to brass) it hits like a truck. I've seen the #8 for as little as $23.
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You want the best? Caravela. but goodluck getting one.. Chi_yous are good. Nzonic V3. Supert T ELA. 69 mod. or the GG. =D
I am going to sound like a real newb so I apoligize.
I do not understand the referrences to the 'Kick' making a mech a 'weak' regulated mod. 'UNLESS' the weak refers to the 10 watt limit?
Evolve = DNA20, DNA12, Darwin, Kick. None of which I have tried, but from the reviews of almost every experienced long time vaper they are all good, well made products. (dna20 and 12 chips-not referring to any specific APV using them)
My vape future has a Nemesis Celeste and a Kick, the Kick is for out and about carto tank setup.
I don't see it as a downgrade/upgrade, just a 'fit' for what works for me. I think that will.
I do not understand the referrences to the 'Kick' making a mech a 'weak' regulated mod. 'UNLESS' the weak refers to the 10 watt limit?
Evolve = DNA20, DNA12, Darwin, Kick. None of which I have tried, but from the reviews of almost every experienced long time vaper they are all good, well made products. (dna20 and 12 chips-not referring to any specific APV using them)
My vape future has a Nemesis Celeste and a Kick, the Kick is for out and about carto tank setup.
I don't see it as a downgrade/upgrade, just a 'fit' for what works for me. I think that will.
Ok, I will bite, why do you think the Caravela is the best?
I ask this as, my opinion, Caravela is solid but most of the desire seems to be in rarity. I have had the opportunity to try one out and would rate it pretty darn good and great build quality. But then so is the GP LUX, Nemesis, Chi, and a host of others......
The ship logo + Pedro's signature + C+ button on Caravelas adds electrical conductivity, where as (*) and custom graphics reduces conductivity. Much like stickers add horsepowers to cars. /trollface
Well, that may be...but the Nemesis can also double as a Lightsaber and on the Celeste model if you UP+DOWN+BACK+BACK and then fire it twice real quick the Nemesis Angel comes off and does an awesome finish move.
Seriously though, purely aesthetics. For my taste the Celeste Nemesis is the most beautiful mech I have seen.
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