Mechanical Mods

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bcalvanese

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There seems to be a growing number of folks who use only mechanical mods, and i don't know enough about them to understand why.

Can someone give me the basic pro's and con's of them?

I have a Silver Bullet. Is that considered a mechanical mod?

I like the regulation in mods because i need consistancy, but with my Silver Bullet, as the battery runs down, so does the hit. I know I can use a kick in it, but wouldn't that be sort of converting it into a variable device?

My main device is a VV mod that begins with the letter "P", but I don't want to say that word in fear that this thread will turn into something completely different...:ohmy:

So what is the downlow on mech's?

thanks in advance,
 

Revelene

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I use mechanical mods so I can get the output that I want which is ~30-55 watts. The only way currently to get that much power is to build your own coils, lower the resistance, and use an unregulated mod (aka mechanical) with a high drain high amperage battery. Technology for vaping is starting to advance a bit more with the DNA30 capable of 30 watts max output but that is still not enough for me. Until someone comes out with an easy accessible 50+ watt capable regulated mod, I will be using mechanical mods to achieve my desired vape.
 

Revelene

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I don't think the SB will do sub ohm somebody will correct me if I'm wrong. I think altsmoke is working on a mechanical SB.

If I'm not mistaken... I believe the Silver Bullet is not a "true mechanical" as it has wires for the switch. If that is true then you are 100% right in saying it won't handle sub ohm vaping.
 

Funk Dracula

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Pros:

Simplicity.

Durability. There's virtually nothing to break.

Smaller size.

They tend to look "sexier, sleeker." More variety in looks and form factor.

Upgradable. (if you choose to use a Kick in it, and a new Kick comes out, just replace it.)

Cons:

Requires some knowledge to get the best use out of.

Battery drop off.

User error and safety concerns.
 

crxess

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Mechanical Mod - some advantages

No Wiring
No Display needed
No circuits to possibly get damaged
Minimal parts in assembly
Smaller form Factor possible
Less prone to drop damage
Able to run very low ohm coils with proper Battery an precautions
May be kicked for Regulated power with minimal to no size change
Often easily owner repairable

Mechanical Mod - Simply one more option for a Vapor

Op, Much better post than Yesterday.:2c:
 

VaPreis

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Mechanical Mod - some advantages

No Wiring
No Display needed
No circuits to possibly get damaged
Minimal parts in assembly
Smaller form Factor possible
Less prone to drop damage
Able to run very low ohm coils with proper Battery an precautions
May be kicked for Regulated power with minimal to no size change
Often easily owner repairable

Mechanical Mod - Simply one more option for a Vapor

Op, Much better post than Yesterday.:2c:

I think that sums it up.

Although I have a VV/VW devices that still have their place in my arsenal, my preference is to use my mechs. While I agree about the slow degradation in performance as the battery weakens, the initial performance is what I'm after, and I have plenty of batteries to change as necessary. I like the "instant on" effect and performance of a lower resistance coil on a mech. I'm not necessarily talking about building a .3Ω cloud blower, but I like them around .7-1.0Ω. And in that range, I usually get respectable battery life from my 18650's.

And mechs look .....in' ;)
 

bcalvanese

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I use mechanical mods so I can get the output that I want which is ~30-55 watts. The only way currently to get that much power is to build your own coils, lower the resistance, and use an unregulated mod (aka mechanical) with a high drain high amperage battery. Technology for vaping is starting to advance a bit more with the DNA30 capable of 30 watts max output but that is still not enough for me. Until someone comes out with an easy accessible 50+ watt capable regulated mod, I will be using mechanical mods to achieve my desired vape.

You vape at 30 to 55 watts?!?!?!?

HOLY COW!!!

I vape at like 6 to 8 watts (closer to 6 than 8). I'm just trying to stay off the cigarettes though.

I have a Kayfun Lite Plus on the way, so I am going to try building my own coils, but I'm still going to stay at 6 to 8 watts. I am hoping that the Kayfun Lite Plus is going to be more consistant than cartos (once I get the builds consistant). Then I just need to keep a supply of wire, wick, and liquid.

Thanks for the info.
 

Revelene

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You vape at 30 to 55 watts?!?!?!?

HOLY COW!!!

I vape at like 6 to 8 watts (closer to 6 than 8). I'm just trying to stay off the cigarettes though.

I have a Kayfun Lite Plus on the way, so I am going to try building my own coils, but I'm still going to stay at 6 to 8 watts. I am hoping that the Kayfun Lite Plus is going to be more consistant than cartos (once I get the builds consistant). Then I just need to keep a supply of wire, wick, and liquid.

Thanks for the info.

Yeah... I used to be just fine with lower wattage until I gave high watts a try... I've been hooked ever since haha But yeah, if you don't want to get high wattage output then there really isn't a need for a mechanical unless you like the look of them or something. Glad to help!
 

crxess

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You vape at 30 to 55 watts?!?!?!?

HOLY COW!!!

I vape at like 6 to 8 watts (closer to 6 than 8). I'm just trying to stay off the cigarettes though.

I have a Kayfun Lite Plus on the way, so I am going to try building my own coils, but I'm still going to stay at 6 to 8 watts. I am hoping that the Kayfun Lite Plus is going to be more consistant than cartos (once I get the builds consistant). Then I just need to keep a supply of wire, wick, and liquid.

Thanks for the info.

Kayfun Lite Plus -
You can built it for a Mechanical or just as easily build it for great performance on your (P)word:laugh:
Kayfun is very versatile and only relies on your ability to build a proper coil and wick.

Can it be as consistent as a Carto? Absolutely, as long as your builds are. It will not be as consistent but can be a much better experience between builds.
These are the only type of tanks I build with cotton micro coils at this time and they are a much more enjoyable Vape than any other device I own.

*one tip - The drip tip has a very narrow opening. A more open drip tip seems to work better.
 
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rob33

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You vape at 30 to 55 watts?!?!?!?

HOLY COW!!!

I vape at like 6 to 8 watts (closer to 6 than 8). I'm just trying to stay off the cigarettes though.

I have a Kayfun Lite Plus on the way, so I am going to try building my own coils, but I'm still going to stay at 6 to 8 watts. I am hoping that the Kayfun Lite Plus is going to be more consistant than cartos (once I get the builds consistant). Then I just need to keep a supply of wire, wick, and liquid.

Thanks for the info.

Most sub ohmers either want clouds of vapor or warmth. IMO your KFL for a 1.7+- ohm is a sweet spot. The KFL is not a sub ohm device it produces great flavor its not a cloud machine.
 

tj99959

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    Ohms law is a circle, and there are always three ways to get from point A to point B. So look at a mechanical as being Varialble Resistance instead of VV or VW. The reality is that you can't change one without varying one of the others anyway.

    When I first looked into mechanicals, almost 3 years ago, I was looking for a PV that was indistructable, and I too chose the Silver Bullet. I still have that SB, and it still looks and works like new. That was long before there were such things as RBA's or sub ohm vaping.
    BTW there is a fully mechanical SB, which is a quality altenative for those that don't like a bottom button.
    ElectronicStix.Com · The Silver Bullet M (Full Mechanical)

    I would also point out that the KayFun and the A7 both function with the same bottom air flow to the coil principle. One is a dripper, and the other is a tank system is all. OH-and, one costs $100, and the other only $17.
     
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    Myrany

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    I got my mechs initially because I wanted to FDA proof myself. I wanted something durable that I had a prayer of repairing myself. For the same reason I picked RDAs and RBAs.

    The experience made me realize I prefer dripping. However constantly dripping got annoying. That is when I discovered the REO grand. Dripping with an onboard 6 mL juice bottle. I have been in vapevanna ever since.

    I do not subohm ever. I run 1.2-1.8 ohm coils and am a very happy old lady.
     

    Peepaw

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    Pros:

    Simplicity.

    Durability. There's virtually nothing to break.

    Smaller size.

    They tend to look "sexier, sleeker." More variety in looks and form factor.

    Upgradable. (if you choose to use a Kick in it, and a new Kick comes out, just replace it.)

    Cons:

    Requires some knowledge to get the best use out of.

    Battery drop off.

    User error and safety concerns.

    Can someone explain to me what a "kick" is?
     

    Plumes.91

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    I think the reason people get into collecting mechanical mods over VV/VW mods is the same reason people start collecting shot glasses or anything else that is collectable... You can get a cheap mechanical mod for $20 to $50 dollars. "Wow, I can start vaping for under 100 bucks and give a big finger to those expensive provari makers!" So they wind up buying a smoktech natural or a EHpro clone and they read up on making sub ohm coils and they realize they can actually make a damn good coil, which makes them feel good... So instead of saying "well, I will get a VV/VW now because I know I like vaping!" they say "I've already got the one mech mod, and I'm already fantastic at sub ohm coiling, I might as well continue my mechanical collection & get a quality made one now!" & boom. A mech collector is born.

    Plus, if you know what your doing, the vape from a mechanical mod can easily surpass the vape from any regulated VV/VW mod, easily. Strait from the battery voltage is just plain smoother & the fact that you created that sub-ohm coil is so satisfying that it's totally unmatched in the world of clearo + vv mod.

    As long as you wrap a coil at a low enough resistance to make your vape powerful enough to your liking, then whether your taking 1 second drags at the beginning & blowing out gigantic plumes of thick milky vapor, or whether your battery is almost dead, at 3.4v and your still getting huge clouds of vapor from 5 to 8 second drags, you can't beat that! You feel like you know your PV & you MADE every plume you blow out.
     
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    Dzaw

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    I went mechanical because there are intermittent vapocalypse scares that tell me eventually buying a replacement for anything that outperforms a Joey 510 batt might be impossible.

    With a mechanical, if something breaks, I can either fix it, or I know someone who can.

    A mechanical with rebuildable atomizer is a long term solution, and will last longer than it will take to get me off nic. If I run out of supplies after I am off nic, quitting outright shouldn't be too hard at that point.
     

    grandmato5

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    I wanted PV's that would have the best chance of lasting forever both to proof myself from the FDA and other government bans. I also knew that the time was coming in the future that I would want to limit what I spent on vaping and having a PV that would last forever would help drastically keep cost down for many years into the future. My mechanical needs are now totally filled so I see it being a very long time, if ever, before I'd ever be purchasing another mechanical PV. IF it did need repairs and the original builder was no longer available to fix it for me, I wanted the repairs to be something I could likely do myself. I'm not a modder and never will be so if it has wires and needs a soldering gun to repair it isn't gonna happen here ;)

    Because its not a regulated PV, without using a kick, you are at the mercy of whatever volts the battery is at as they slowly decrease. Not a problem for me as I'm perfectly happy within a range and I dont find it a problem to switch batteries when needed. But there are people that find that's a problem for them.
     
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