Mechanical reos will be seeing some upgrades
- Thread starter redeyedancer
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Hot Rod Reo's will never be the same
uh thats another thread lol. but still, yeah baby!
my chopped Reo Grand is on the way! thanks Rob. oh it will look so sweet with that shiny VA Cyclops with 2 air holes on top, and dual nano' coils under the hood.
Cant wait for the new suspension kit though gad; i WILL be slamming the site for a couple kits, like yesterday!
btw, i'm a geezer; just bought some reading glasses off ebay 8.0 . that's 8.0 vs. the 3.5's i use to read with. Gotta get those coils right.
my chopped Reo Grand is on the way! thanks Rob. oh it will look so sweet with that shiny VA Cyclops with 2 air holes on top, and dual nano' coils under the hood.
Cant wait for the new suspension kit though gad; i WILL be slamming the site for a couple kits, like yesterday!
btw, i'm a geezer; just bought some reading glasses off ebay 8.0 . that's 8.0 vs. the 3.5's i use to read with. Gotta get those coils right.
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Just a quick note: somewhere back in this thread sometime, somehow . . .. there was talk of melting buttons and the whys and wherefores. Said I'd report in on the meltage of my knobage. In doing some neck grinding on two of my REOs (both heavily used and consistently around .4Ω . . . . both with auto fuse and brass firing pins) I had opportunity to take a close look at my buttons' bottoms. They must have been getting constant use for over a month, maybe longer.
Pristine. Like new.
Pristine. Like new.
and you attribute that to what?
your brass pin is better than a steel pin (no doubt about that) or/and your auto fuse is better than a spring. Knobage melting is a serious issue usually encountered when men my age meet brassy women.
T
your brass pin is better than a steel pin (no doubt about that) or/and your auto fuse is better than a spring. Knobage melting is a serious issue usually encountered when men my age meet brassy women.
T
So at what resistances do the buttons melt? I run .8-1.0 ohms on all my Reos. Absolutely no signs of melting & I don't use Noalox. So I guess I will never melt a button & have no need to ever make my own buttons.
I guess that's my point. With a clean system, there is no resistance at which a button will melt (unless it's the resistance that's below what the best batteries can safely do).
i don't think it is resistance of coils at all. I think a point on a firing pin is asking for sparks. If i'm correct Dibby and yourself came up with a wide, rolled firing pin with a rounded profile and greater surface area, sometimes wrapped in a better conducting metal.
What is fascinating is that it works so well, but i'd like a rough estimate of how much contribution pin v fuse makes to the deal.
T
What is fascinating is that it works so well, but i'd like a rough estimate of how much contribution pin v fuse makes to the deal.
T
I was wondering about that, and Dizzie said no fuse just pin. Then Supe, who has no sparking any more, only did the fuse. So, I'm confused. My guess; all three. btw; Rob told me the new pins will have a different shape at the end with greater contact area.
the original pointy contact becomes a point of high resistance in the circuit simply because of the tiny contact area and that makes heat at the connection which transfers to the springy bar which causes the button to melt, once you get a good connection at that point it will be no hotter than the rest of the circuit.
the only thing that should heat up in the whole circuit is the coil. if anything else is getting warmer than any other part of the circuit then it's a weak link in the circuit and inadequate for the circuit and exceeding it's capacity. the original reo contacts are adequate for the average 1.4-1.8 ohm+ carto or atty but can't flow the higher amperage required at sub ohm without becoming a bottle neck. that's what high resistance and resulting heat comes from, bottle necks in the electrons flow. a poor contact in an electrical circuit is like a pinched hose with water flow.
Ideally the whole circuit should be able to exceed the flow of amperage that the battery can provide without excess restriction anywhere in the circuit, at that point the battery becomes the limiting factor, as it should be, ideally
a circuit is like a chain, it's only as strong as it's weakest link
the only thing that should heat up in the whole circuit is the coil. if anything else is getting warmer than any other part of the circuit then it's a weak link in the circuit and inadequate for the circuit and exceeding it's capacity. the original reo contacts are adequate for the average 1.4-1.8 ohm+ carto or atty but can't flow the higher amperage required at sub ohm without becoming a bottle neck. that's what high resistance and resulting heat comes from, bottle necks in the electrons flow. a poor contact in an electrical circuit is like a pinched hose with water flow.
Ideally the whole circuit should be able to exceed the flow of amperage that the battery can provide without excess restriction anywhere in the circuit, at that point the battery becomes the limiting factor, as it should be, ideally
a circuit is like a chain, it's only as strong as it's weakest link 
That reminds me: pdib, what thickness is the brass that you use for your firing pins?
I made one up with .01" brass strip I got from Grainger and for some reason I was getting crazy shorts with it even though I had insulated it with the stock firing pin insulator.
I made one up with .01" brass strip I got from Grainger and for some reason I was getting crazy shorts with it even though I had insulated it with the stock firing pin insulator.
yeah, I've used .010 mostly. (I've also piggybacked like a .006 on the existing stainless, and had some hit-or-miss luck with the .012.) The stock insulator is just a hair longer than it needs to be. The real touchy point of contact is in the center of the length of the pin where the delrin cover has a spine and pushes the pin body up dam close to where the aluminum shelf (the bottom side of the "510 cube" area) ends. When we push the button, the pin arches up in this central part. If your insulative sleeve is, say 2-3mm shorter than stock, that could be it. (or if it's damaged in that area) Also, of course, inserting the pin in the sleeve can cause a tear along the edge. That tear would have to migrate quite a bit to cause any trouble.
here's one I did that was insulated enough, but not by much. This one is in no way standard in its shape, as it doesn't go around the post.
Ahh I didn't even think about the middle of the pin. I've got another bottom-feed mod project that I hope to finish tomorrow, but I'll definitely have to revisit the pin upgrade. Thanks man
I saw that too but I'm not understanding how the fuse mod would lead to no more sparking at the firing pin.
I just thought of something. What does the battery do when it's sitting on that light gauge spring, and you press the button?
It rises. It follows the firing pin. The release is delayed and not a solid cessation of contact.
sparking.
sparking.
I see your point & that would make sense. But the spring ain't that light under compression. I have to really mash on the button to push down the battery. But my firing pin doesn't deform as the stock would. Was testing that when I made the first firing pin. That's why I believe in firm pressure on the button which is against what many people have said in the past about button smashers.
I had remembered watching it and seeing the battery go down a bit when i pressed the button. Yeah,tho, half my problems went away when I started pressing the button like I meant business.
I fired up my new milled cc Reo Grand today, and funny how I can feel the button to pin at top through to the spring giving on each press. Strange; i guess since i've been using my oldie but good Grand for a long long time, i don't recall ever having that sensation…
actually i don't need to press so hard that i feel the bottom spring giving way eh? might be something to think about for those that stick with stock gear, and the new kit will have a stronger spring…
i guess i should have started a thread for "springed Reo's" (crickets chirping)….
but maybe it might have something to do with contact wear? "how" your press the button; i guess i was really pounding down on that spring all this time although never felt that…
nah
actually i don't need to press so hard that i feel the bottom spring giving way eh? might be something to think about for those that stick with stock gear, and the new kit will have a stronger spring…
i guess i should have started a thread for "springed Reo's" (crickets chirping)….
but maybe it might have something to do with contact wear? "how" your press the button; i guess i was really pounding down on that spring all this time although never felt that…
nah
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