Yeah, I remember that, sbmqumdocy (
); but I thought, what the heck, if Andrew W. lists it at 15C. . . . . . and I don't even have an 18490 . . . . good enough for me.Mechanical reos will be seeing some upgrades
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Yeah, I remember that, sbmqumdocy (
); but I thought, what the heck, if Andrew W. lists it at 15C. . . . . . and I don't even have an 18490 . . . . good enough for me.
Yeah, I remember that, sbmqumdocy (
something tells me i ain't the only one who can never remember which vowel goes in Andrew's last name...
WANna bet? . . . . .. . (tee-hee)
no, seriously, I did have a minor brain leak on that.
no, seriously, I did have a minor brain leak on that.
I've never used Orbtronics in my Reos or my Provari, but the 10 amps work great in my Vamos and my Chi You clone. Think I'll order a couple of the 22 amp batteries to add to my collection.
Are their any actual "performance" gains or is this really just a improved safety factor??
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Sent from my Third Eye using Tapatalk
In theory yes, More of the voltage and power would get to the coil and not be wasted or used by other parts of the power path being more efficient and not leaching as much power.
With a brass feeler gauge firing pin & 10A fuse mod there is a noticeably longer time between changing the battery although it is hotter till the battery settles down into its longer horizontal part of the discharge graph.
The new pin & spring should do the same since Rob's voltage drop numbers with the test stuff he got are almost the same if not better IIRC.
With a brass feeler gauge firing pin & 10A fuse mod there is a noticeably longer time between changing the battery although it is hotter till the battery settles down into its longer horizontal part of the discharge graph.
The new pin & spring should do the same since Rob's voltage drop numbers with the test stuff he got are almost the same if not better IIRC.
Did the fuse block I sent ever arrive? Never hear from you on it. If it got lost in the mail I can make another and get it out tomorrow.
Yes it did, and thank you.
However I have not had time to try it yet or to get the smaller fuses for it.
Got to go, the female just hollered "dinner".
However I have not had time to try it yet or to get the smaller fuses for it.
Got to go, the female just hollered "dinner".
mmmm. dinner sounds good. My wifey just left town for 10 days. Pizza and beer for me
So just a random update in the name of science:
I have been running multiple test rigs over the past several weeks. All have been consistent in the .4-.5ohm range.
This button was run on an orangutan fuse block with factory SS firing pin
This button was run on an orangutan fuse block with SS pin coated in brass shim
This is a beta-test PTFE button run on an orangutan fuse block, custom brass dibby pin, and de-chromed 510 pin
It seems odd, but it makes sense as well.
With the SS pin, resist is higher, but the electricity flow is consistant, the heat seems to dissipate through the fuse block which is the path of least resist.
The SS pin shimmed w/ brass (top side) reduced resist drastically, but with the electricity flowing through the thin shim as the path of least resist, while having the SS "reflecting" heat upwards, we see a severely deformed button.
With all mods, full brass dibby pin, dechromed 510 pin, and orangutan fuse block, the overall resist of the mod was bare minimum. Running w/ the ptfe button, no issues at all.
I just switched the PTFE button to the brass shimmed SS PIN mod, and installed a new stock button on the fully modded rig.
Will report back in a few days.
Current hypothesis is that even with the fuse block, the thin brass shim demands the heaviest energy flow, thus heating quickly using the lower SS pin as a "heat shield" forcing the temp of the shim to rise faster than the button can handle.
I am guessing that the fully modded rig, having no bottlenecks or expressways, will have even heat dispursion leaving the stock button intact.
(Does this all make sense?)
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
I have been running multiple test rigs over the past several weeks. All have been consistent in the .4-.5ohm range.
This button was run on an orangutan fuse block with factory SS firing pin
This button was run on an orangutan fuse block with SS pin coated in brass shim
This is a beta-test PTFE button run on an orangutan fuse block, custom brass dibby pin, and de-chromed 510 pin
It seems odd, but it makes sense as well.
With the SS pin, resist is higher, but the electricity flow is consistant, the heat seems to dissipate through the fuse block which is the path of least resist.
The SS pin shimmed w/ brass (top side) reduced resist drastically, but with the electricity flowing through the thin shim as the path of least resist, while having the SS "reflecting" heat upwards, we see a severely deformed button.
With all mods, full brass dibby pin, dechromed 510 pin, and orangutan fuse block, the overall resist of the mod was bare minimum. Running w/ the ptfe button, no issues at all.
I just switched the PTFE button to the brass shimmed SS PIN mod, and installed a new stock button on the fully modded rig.
Will report back in a few days.
Current hypothesis is that even with the fuse block, the thin brass shim demands the heaviest energy flow, thus heating quickly using the lower SS pin as a "heat shield" forcing the temp of the shim to rise faster than the button can handle.
I am guessing that the fully modded rig, having no bottlenecks or expressways, will have even heat dispursion leaving the stock button intact.
(Does this all make sense?)
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Aye, Cap'n! Sense made, Sir!
If my lazy (selectively enthused) ayzz gives me the okey-dokey, I'll check my knob for rug burns too.
If my lazy (selectively enthused) ayzz gives me the okey-dokey, I'll check my knob for rug burns too.
And just because you said that, I'm probably going to have to treat something of the sort in the morning... /facepalm
Just checked tonight and no button deformation with brass feeler gauge pin and 10A fuse.
Noticed a tiny amount of juice between the pin and clear sheath so tore it down to investigate.
Appears I damaged the seal below the 510 connector.
Sent an email to Rob to ask if it is clear silicone or a pre made gasket as well as a couple of requests for parts and a new RM2 without the air hole.
It is my experience as an electrician of many years that heat builds up where there is a bad or loose connection that causes higher resistance.
Noticed a tiny amount of juice between the pin and clear sheath so tore it down to investigate.
Appears I damaged the seal below the 510 connector.
Sent an email to Rob to ask if it is clear silicone or a pre made gasket as well as a couple of requests for parts and a new RM2 without the air hole.
It is my experience as an electrician of many years that heat builds up where there is a bad or loose connection that causes higher resistance.
could be that, or it could just be super thick juice. My NEMP is ~90%vg, so I have to squeeze with a good bit of force to squonk. The tube eventually loosens a bit on the 510 nipple causing a tiny bit of seepage into the firing pin insulator.
When I first saw the slight seeping into the insulator, I thought that maybe I hadn't tightened the m+f pieces of the feed tube enough around the firing pin, but upon closer inspection, tear-down & re-build, it seems the feed tube loosening over time is the culprit.
That being said, without taking it all apart, I do remove the pin shroud every couple days and give the insulator a bit of a squeeze and wipe to dry it up as much as possible.
I have only once had it get to the point where it reached my battery, and that was when I was using some AiV juice that I'd estimate to be closer to a 50/50 pg/vg mix, so it didn't stay in the insulater like my poo does, it was actually thin enough to run down the pin.
When I first saw the slight seeping into the insulator, I thought that maybe I hadn't tightened the m+f pieces of the feed tube enough around the firing pin, but upon closer inspection, tear-down & re-build, it seems the feed tube loosening over time is the culprit.
That being said, without taking it all apart, I do remove the pin shroud every couple days and give the insulator a bit of a squeeze and wipe to dry it up as much as possible.
I have only once had it get to the point where it reached my battery, and that was when I was using some AiV juice that I'd estimate to be closer to a 50/50 pg/vg mix, so it didn't stay in the insulater like my poo does, it was actually thin enough to run down the pin.
I am mixing 2/3 VG and the rest is flavor and PG so it is not extremely thick.
However that does make sense because yesterday I had squonking problems and tore down the RM2 at lunch and found cotton in it restricting the juice flow.
Was having to push hard on the bottle that morning so I might have shoved some juice out and into the sleeve.
Going to have to get another Grand when the female unit will allow it so I don't have panic attacks at work.
Going to get another RM2 which I can get away with but she has a hang up with me buying another mod.
She bought me 2 for my Bday and after I got the Reo they just sit lonely most of the time.
I tried the shoe analogy and that didn't fly very far.
Wished I would have been converted before my Bday and I would have several now.
However that does make sense because yesterday I had squonking problems and tore down the RM2 at lunch and found cotton in it restricting the juice flow.
Was having to push hard on the bottle that morning so I might have shoved some juice out and into the sleeve.
Going to have to get another Grand when the female unit will allow it so I don't have panic attacks at work.
Going to get another RM2 which I can get away with but she has a hang up with me buying another mod.
She bought me 2 for my Bday and after I got the Reo they just sit lonely most of the time.
I tried the shoe analogy and that didn't fly very far.
Wished I would have been converted before my Bday and I would have several now.
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