Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

[SlickWilly]

Still haven't had time to think clearly yet about this .... what is currently the preferred mod for dna200 and what squonker as well? (From shapeways)

I think you'll find this isn't an easy question to answer, a lot will depend on your tastes. The dna 200 is much more versatile then I had ever thought it would be and with some creativity it's fit niches of some that I never even dreamed of. Only thing I can say for certainty is Evolv knocked it out of the park with this board, it's going to be the standard all others will be measured against for a long time.

 

[Aal_]

Well to be clear I am talking 3D printed enclosures ... I have 1 board and still didn't look for a suitable box yet ...

 

[tiburonfirst]

some ideas, aal, from mike's other thread

A Kangxin Inoy 60 Watt TC logoless Squonker. 33.50 on a focal prebuy. Winner winner chicken dinner! Just a very nice mod.
View attachment 503106

 

[tiburonfirst]

but i'm assuming a dna200 could be substituted in there

 

[berger]

Heres the last of the small screen DNA 40s I finally finished up last week....glacial speed modding

 

[vapealone]

Nice...now for some new battery shrink wrap.

in matching color?

You are reading my mind
I have stocked:

• Black for matching
• Clear for industrial look
• Orange for the fun

I am just not really happy with the quality, the look (too shiny) and their material ( a bit too rigid) of any of them.
Still experimenting tho to find the temperature they shrink 100% w/o breaking. No luck so far
BTW, Any idea who stocks matte black battery wrap?

 

[vapealone]

Heres the last of the small screen DNA 40s I finally finished up last week....glacial speed modding

That is a very sexy thing And nice pictures too

 

[berger]

Thanks...ive done a few others but this one just turned out really well after I learned a couple things from previous ones...
its etched silver and forced patina black with some clear to help it hold the patina ...and leather of course
been working on it for months LOL

 

[vapealone]

Still haven't had time to think clearly yet about this .... what is currently the preferred mod for dna200 and what squonker as well? (From shapeways)

I don't really know the available options so the only thing I can tell that I have tried this one and it was easy to build, enough room for a 1500mAh Turnigy Nano 3s and worked as supposed (until the fuse has blown but that is a different story)

 

[awsum140]

Berger, it may have been a long time in production, but the final result is outstanding!

 

[mikepetro]

Thanks...ive done a few others but this one just turned out really well after I learned a couple things from previous ones...
its etched silver and forced patina black with some clear to help it hold the patina ...and leather of course
been working on it for months LOL

It's truly a work of Art, not just a Mod.....

 

[berger]

Thanks Guys...I kinda take whatever theme people like or have an idea for and go from there

 

[monster92]

I want a DNA 200 reference case

 

[monster92]

Well it took awhile, but..
View attachment 501150

View attachment 501151

Where did you get this?

 

[tiburonfirst]

welcome to ecf, monster! lots of possibilities once you get verified

 

[tiburonfirst]

you got lots of reading to do!
Verified Member Explained With More Detail (FAQ included)

 

[Phone Guy]

welcome to ecf, monster! lots of possibilities once you get verified

Get verified then prepare empty your wallet!

 

[Pdizzle]

 

[VapingBad]

Want a very cheap and easy way to measure mod resistance?

This has to be the cheapest and easiest if you have a decent soldering iron and an old carto: just solder the positive to the negative then sand through to the brass of the positive, plenty of flux flood the centre at first then run the solder around the centre sealing the gap. As accurate as the solid copper rod and more stable so easier to use, remember to set the mod res to zero before testing!

It don't get much cheaper than that.

 

[vapealone]

Want a very cheap and easy to measure mod resistance?

This has to be the cheapest and easiest if you have a decent soldering iron and an old carto: just solder the positive to the negative then sand through to the brass of the positive, plenty of flux flood the centre at first then run the solder around the centre sealing the gap. As accurate as the solid copper rod and more stable so easier to use, remember to set the mod res to zero before testing!

It don't get much cheaper than that.

Brilliant.
Unfortunately, I don't have any 510 carto but have plenty useless FT's 510 heat-sinks
Will switch the soldering station on in a minute