Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

[berger]

Want a very cheap and easy way to measure mod resistance?

This has to be the cheapest and easiest if you have a decent soldering iron and an old carto: just solder the positive to the negative then sand through to the brass of the positive, plenty of flux flood the centre at first then run the solder around the centre sealing the gap. As accurate as the solid copper rod and more stable so easier to use, remember to set the mod res to zero before testing!

It don't get much cheaper than that.

Great idea....but where the hell did you find a carto?!....unloaded them all a couple years ago...

 

[Novcon]

Great idea....but where the hell did you find a carto?!....unloaded them all a couple years ago...

I still have 5 boxes of them. I use them every now and then. It's sad, I know.

 

[Phone Guy]

I still have 5 boxes of them. I use them every now and then. It's sad, I know.

So basically, if I'm reading and understanding right, you filled the 510 connector of a carto with solder making a dead short, and connected it and ran atty analyzer? Right? So that should work with any old 510 device right?


@VapingBad

 

[mikepetro]

So basically, if I'm reading and understanding right, you filled the 510 connector of a carto with solder making a dead short, and connected it and ran atty analyzer? Right? So that should work with any old 510 device right?


@VapingBad

Theoretically, yes. However, the caveat being "any old 510 device" can include devices that have resistance of their own if you solder anywhere other than the very end of the 510.

In his carto example he soldered the very end of the 510, pretty much eliminating any resistance of the carto itself. Assuming you can bridge the very end of the 510 with solder then "any old 510 device" should work. If you try to go deeper into the device to bridge it then you will get the added resistance of the device.

For example, just bridging the two posts on a Genny would not be accurate as it would also include the resistance of the Genny itself.

But bridge this area WELL (use flux etc) on most any atty would work.

Cartos are just easier to do as the outer 510 wall tends to be thinner than a milled atty, thus easier to solder.

 

[awsum140]

A simple solution would be the right size washer under the center pin of any device with a removable center pin. Flooding the connector of an old carto is probably easier to do though.

 

[mikepetro]

Or just buy the right size bolt:

0086869 Titanium M7-0.5 Pitch X 90mm Socket Head Allied Titanium Machine Screw - Allied Titanium

 

[berger]

Or just buy the right size bolt:

0086869 Titanium M7-0.5 Pitch X 90mm Socket Head Allied Titanium Machine Screw - Allied Titanium

bingo..best way possible....but his was cheaper...if ya had a carto...I sold all mine off in bulk back when Iclears came out LOL

but..I still have some 510 to 510 adapters that could be solder "filled"

 

[VapingBad]

As Mike said just bridging atty terminals will give you a lot higher reading, I put 15 A solid core 2.5 mm sq through a Velocity 3 times and the resistance measured 150% higher than the soldered carto.

A solid copper rod works nearly as well if you can get the threads to bite into it, but the carto is better. I have a M7 0.5 die and some thicker copper that I will try at some point, but at 4 miliohm with the carto I doubt I will measure any lower.

 

[awsum140]

That bolt show "out of stock", ratzaframisss! That would be really cornvenient.

 

[mikepetro]

bingo..best way possible....but his was cheaper...if ya had a carto...I sold all mine off in bulk back when Iclears came out LOL

but..I still have some 510 to 510 adapters that could be solder "filled"

Actually I have the 7mm -0.5 Die, thought about just threading a piece of brass, you would only need about a 1/2" or so of threads.

 

[mikepetro]

That bolt show "out of stock", ratzaframisss! That would be really cornvenient.

Me thinks those bolts would be outrageously expensive.

ETA: They also sell threaded rod in that same size/pitch.

 

[Phone Guy]

Theoretically, yes. However, the caveat being "any old 510 device" can include devices that have resistance of their own if you solder anywhere other than the very end of the 510.

In his carto example he soldered the very end of the 510, pretty much eliminating any resistance of the carto itself. Assuming you can bridge the very end of the 510 with solder then "any old 510 device" should work. If you try to go deeper into the device to bridge it then you will get the added resistance of the device.

For example, just bridging the two posts on a Genny would not be accurate as it would also include the resistance of the Genny itself.
View attachment 505103


But bridge this area WELL (use flux etc) on most any atty would work.

View attachment 505104

Cartos are just easier to do as the outer 510 wall tends to be thinner than a milled atty, thus easier to solder.

I personally never used Cartos. I think I started with those plastic CE4 type, then Evod/Protank, Genny, Kayfun, etc..... I bypassed Carto altogether, so I never even had one. But I'm sure I have something somewhere I can bridge the 510 on? Got to.....???? Hmm

 

[Phone Guy]

Or just buy the right size bolt:

0086869 Titanium M7-0.5 Pitch X 90mm Socket Head Allied Titanium Machine Screw - Allied Titanium

Oh yeah! That's the ticket!!! Just something that would screw in there, would it have to be Titanium? would just a stainless steel or metal screw work? My local ACE hardware has all kinds of weird screws like that.... where I can walk in and buy 1.

 

[mikepetro]

Oh yeah! That's the ticket!!! Just something that would screw in there, would it have to be Titanium? would just a stainless steel or metal screw work? My local ACE hardware has all kinds of weird screws like that.... where I can walk in and buy 1.

The better the conductivity, the better. But I would say most any common metal would work. If you find them let us know, these titanium ones were the only one I could find. Its not a common thread pitch on M7 screws.

 

[Visus]

If you have an old evod, ce4, vivi nova, iclear16/30, the disposable heads are short 510's and would work if they can reach your positive pin..

 

[Squonk_me]

I know that this is a really cheatie way to do this but,

From Alpine Tech I got a Black one. It's a G+ box, all pre-cut. (told ya it's a cheatie way). $29.00 shipped. Ordered on facebook.

I will have to drill the hole for the DNA 510. These come with 1.5mm buttons.

Then from ModSledz I grabbed one of these sleds, this is a "glue" in style sled. $8.04 shipped. Ordered from their site.

If you order this make sure of the size buttons you sign up for, (1.5mm or 2mm) there's a drop down

to choose from. (Hey! .5mm more room in the box!)

More pictures as I make some progress in the garage.

 

[mikepetro]

I know that this is a really cheatie way to do this but,
....................
More pictures as I make some progress in the garage.

They actually dont look bad at all. Curious how well that Type II coating holds up.

Did they leave a Grounding point on the inside?

 

[Squonk_me]

Did they leave a Grounding point on the inside?

NO! This one is completely anodized, inside and out. So its gonna have to be cleaned off at the 510. These are pretty thin walled boxes, I'm not gonna thread the 510, gonna use a nut instead.

ETA: gonna need that ground wire from the out side of the board too.

 

[tomr1088]

I know that this is a really cheatie way to do this but,

View attachment 505701

From Alpine Tech I got a Black one. It's a G+ box, all pre-cut. (told ya it's a cheatie way). $29.00 shipped. Ordered on facebook.

I will have to drill the hole for the DNA 510. These come with 1.5mm buttons.
View attachment 505703

Then from ModSledz I grabbed one of these sleds, this is a "glue" in style sled. $8.04 shipped. Ordered from their site.

If you order this make sure of the size buttons you sign up for, (1.5mm or 2mm) there's a drop down

to choose from. (Hey! .5mm more room in the box!)

View attachment 505704

More pictures as I make some progress in the garage.

Just finished mine with a maxamps 1850 and manage to keep the battery removable and all 4 magnets.

 

[tiburonfirst]

tom, while this is a heck of a nice group anybody has access to this thread including maybe not-so-nice people - do you really want to leave your address for all to see?