Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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I cut and strip my 20ga turnigy (only have red color) according to Baps mesurement. when i check my dna30d chip, the UP wattage switch was burned. i guess this chip cant be use in my black Tibs. you guys have any idea? or should i get a new one?
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If it came that way, send it back ASAP. However you might try testing it with a multimeter first, it may still work.
morning, mike! and happy birthday! 
eros is a bit handicapped being in malaysia - not so easy returning the chip
eros is a bit handicapped being in malaysia - not so easy returning the chip
For me ramie replaced hemp for good. After 1+ yr with hemp only, I couldn't be more satisfied
Ramie wicks better than hemp, has (different, but) far less 'earthy' smell, and similar scorch resistance - that is to say, very good indeed.
Rayon wicks even better than ramie IMO, especially for vertical configurations, and has no odor whatsoever. Less scorch resistance, though mitigated by its excellent wicking properties.
It should be noted that some people are reporting sore throats and sometimes chest constriction when using rayon.. Personally no ill effects at all in the 2+ months I've been (ab)using it, FWIW.
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morning, mike! and happy birthday!
eros is a bit handicapped being in malaysia - not so easy returning the chip
I know, but if it is bad I dont see where he has a choice.
I would however check it first. that melted corner might not affect it functionally.
Electrical check:
With a multimeter measure the resistance between pins 8 and 9. You measure some resistance, ie not "open" or infinite. Then while holding the meter leads on those two pins gently press the up button. If the resistance drops to zero then electrically the button is functioning.
Physical check:
The button itself doesnt look deformed. Dry fit the black buttons in the holes and then dry fit the dna board in the enclosure and, while holding the dna firmly in place, press the black up button. You should feel a slight click, just like you do on the down button.
If it passes these two tests then you are probably OK. The only other check you could do is apply power to the board and hit the buttons again and watch it change on the screen.
Well I know 1 of the 3 DNA boards work
Hopefully I get this completed tonight! A question about the light bar.. is it supposed to sit in that horizontal slit below the usb port? And about the usb charger, I never thought about what to use when charging... Can I use the cord that charges my Samsung Galaxy 4 phone? It fits...
zach, this is all i could find for the light pipe
as to the charger - any micro usb cable should do
as to the charger - any micro usb cable should do
ya I read that small tidbit on the tutorial and it doesn't make sense. Put it on the outside of the door? It should be inside the mod... Im thinking its the horizontal slit but im gonna hold off until someone can explain further.
hold that thought, texas! and give zach a hand with that light pipe! 
if you used one
and give zach a hand with that light pipe! if you used one regarding the light pipe, on the back of the mod you should see a small hole about 1/8th of an inch to the left of the charging port hole. This is where your light pipe should fit.
If you are looking at the charging port end of your board, you will notice a small square thing just to the left of the port. This is the LED.
What you want to achieve is a piece of the 1/16th acrylic that fits through the hole on the back door and penetrates far enough inward to pick up the light from the LED. It should be flush on the outside of the back door.
I may have done this completely wrong, but this is what I did. With the unit assembled, including the back door, I inserted a piece of the acrylic rod through the door about 3/4 of an inch or so. I then took an exacto knife and carefully cut the excess rod off.
If you are looking at the charging port end of your board, you will notice a small square thing just to the left of the port. This is the LED.
What you want to achieve is a piece of the 1/16th acrylic that fits through the hole on the back door and penetrates far enough inward to pick up the light from the LED. It should be flush on the outside of the back door.
I may have done this completely wrong, but this is what I did. With the unit assembled, including the back door, I inserted a piece of the acrylic rod through the door about 3/4 of an inch or so. I then took an exacto knife and carefully cut the excess rod off.
He said "flush with" the outside of the door. If you need to install it inside (and it makes sense that you would) fine.
I haven't seen one of these mods close up. Basically, a "light pipe" is similar to fiber optic cable...probably without as good of internal reflection...but it directs light along a path. Like a conduit. So put one end of it where the LED light source is, the other end to where you want the light to show up. He said "sand it flat if you need to" but IDK how or if that effects the action of a light pipe, probably won't since I think it's based on refraction and air vs plastic density. But try it without having to sand it if you can.
Some light pipes are simply reflective metal or mirrored tubes too.
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My thought process was that I wanted the light pipe to come away with the door in the event that I needed to change the battery. I thought that alignment might become an issue if i tried to glue the light pipe to the interior.
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