Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

[awsum140]

My VTR started working again, all by itself. This morning it did the same thing, again. So I took apart the dud I had, stripped it completely. It looks like I can stuff a DNA40 in there with the fire and adjust buttons on top and the display where the old fire button was. I'm still waiting for switches and wire to come in so it's an enforced wait, grrrr. If the switches fit into the case top I'll still have to modify the case for the display to be fully visible and make an appropriate cove piece for it out of brass. Maybe A VTR40 is, indeed, possible.

 

[Rossum]

Maybe A VTR40 is, indeed, possible.

Just because something is possible doesn't mean it should be done.

 

[awsum140]

Just because something is possible doesn't mean it should be done.

If one likes the form factor, low tank, weight and "pocketability" it seems worth doing to me. I'll also do some work on the support ring so it can handle a 22mm tank. I know you're a squonker, but I like to keep it as easy as possible.

 

[Kataphraktos]

If one likes the form factor, low tank, weight and "pocketability" it seems worth doing to me. I'll also do some work on the support ring so it can handle a 22mm tank. I know you're a squonker, but I like to keep it as easy as possible.

Ain't nothing easier than squonking. Join us, join us!

 

[Podunk Steam]

This looks like a real trick Awsum! I haven't spent much time with it yet but orienting the circuit board in the same way, I'm not so sure of, vertically maybe.

 

[laurie9300]

It's been done.......

http://www.ecigarette-public.com/t21253-vtr-powered-by-dna20d

 

[awsum140]

From what I can see, given the size of the DNA40 board with the large display, the ears have to be trimmed, the board mounted vertically in the top directly under the original adjust wheel and the display down the side in the original switch cutout. That means moving the fire and adjust buttons to the top. It also means some machining to the well where the switch was and making a new cover for it with a cutout big enough for the display. It seems "doable" depending on clearances for the switches/board on the top.

It's amazing just how much wasted space there is inside a VTR but a lot of it is blocked by castings. I was even thinking of some more, serious, machining to open it up some more. That may become necessary depending on how much room I need for the switches. I may also add a 1amp charger board which means more machining.

 

[Podunk Steam]

The actual opening for the display is much larger than the window allows to be seen, the opening is 20mm across by 12mm tall or there about. The DNA 25 I have in my hand at the moment all but fits in the top diagonally where the original boards were at.

I've tried making a tool for the nut that holds the spinning part of the 510 from the inside but I guess Innokin hires baby gorillas for the tightening job because it refuses to crack loose. My luck it's reverse threaded and I've just been making it all the tighter. I'm about to the point of just drilling through the center of it. IMO the electrical connections they used really aren't up to the DNA 40 in the 510, from left to right in the picture below is how the three current carrying positive pins are oriented. They're just pushing against each other with pressure supplied by the atomizers + pin and retained by the brass cup that is press fit in the housing.

This clone board is a shade wider than the DNA 40 with the mounting rails removed and the same length and there is a little space in the bottom cap of the VTR that would have to be utilized. The on-board fire button would have to be removed and a jumper put in its place so the battery cylinder would fit back in again but this looks possible, extremely tight but possible. The board would have to be flipped 180 degrees to what I have shown in the picture. Sure would make for a long run of wire to the atomizer! The electrical connection at the batteries - has me in question a bit too honestly.

How wide is that large display? Space is limited in the channel behind the board.

 

[awsum140]

The large display is just too large to fit horizontally across the top where the original display was. The ribbon cable would be bent way too sharply for safety, then a 90 degree twist would be needed to get it onto the ZIF socket on the main board. With the main board, vertical, in the top, the ribbon cable remains straight if the display is moved to the side.

I'm not all that concerned about maintaining all the original design features. I just want to have something working while I'm building an improved version. I also will be replacing that dumb rotating 510 connector with a Fat Daddy while I'm at it so it matches the one that is sort of semi-working at the moment.

 

[laurie9300]

In case you missed the other pics, this is how the French one was done.........

 

[Podunk Steam]

I agree the display twisting and all would be a spooky deal for me. I'd just use the display space as a frame for something, maybe a digital clock?

It does look possible with the DNA horizontal, there's some deep milling with small tooling that may prove to be a challenge. One of these little guys mat be better suited for that job than my Grizzly. The spindle speed is way faster and I'd guess it might make a difference being the size of the tooling that would be involved.

I'm not sure where Jasen is with those drawings, I haven't seen anything in weeks from him. He did mention work being busy about a week ago though. If you need a loaner I have a few beaters hanging around.

I was thinking about an SX350 gen 2 going in but the lipo pack/s that would fit have me steering back to the original 18650 configuration and regulation. The reason I took it apart was to look into doing a spring loaded 510, than I found a bare wire inside and it's been parked in a box since. Once I get around to it again it'll likely be blasted in the cabinet, sprayed and baked with a fire arms coating or a powder coat before it goes back together, just the housing not the end caps.

 

[Podunk Steam]

In case you missed the other pics, this is how the French one was done.........

Thanks! I was scrolling around the registration box or what ever it was. I'd guess that display to be about banjo tight, spooky for me. I did notice the 2 screws missing too.

If I was going to take on the mod I'd mill the whole button side off leaving the screw holes at the button and the top and make a plate to replace the metal that was milled away.


Edit: Laurie, I was going to like your post but you have no like button? Double Edit: found it.

 

[SlickWilly]

I've found sometimes you need to refresh a page to bring the like button back.

 

[Podunk Steam]

Thanks Willy! I believe that's how it ended up happening.

 

[Kataphraktos]

Tibs here you go

Ignore the stripe on the screen, that's just the camera refresh. One of the RMAd DNA40s, on that long-suffering Tibs enclosure, in a "Compensating For Something Ferrari Red" cerakote from OCD. Working flawlessly - and that Eviva tank feeds that nickel coil with no problems, chain vaping 11-12 hits without slowing down.

(yes, I now I'm a squonker, sue me)

 

[tiburonfirst]

.................................. ;

goodlooking mod!

 

[Podunk Steam]

Nice! What kind of red coating is that? I've been playing the trials and tribulations game with my 3D print coatings.

 

[tiburonfirst]

it's cerakote and ocd does the coating for between $20 and $30 - they are on fb

 

[tiburonfirst]

not sure though if it's a ferrari red on that tibs - but it might be the light

 

[Podunk Steam]

it's cerakote and ocd does the coating for between $20 and $30 - they are on fb

I'm not much of a FBer but I think I have a firearms spray and bake can around here someplace. Thanks!