exactly!!!!!!!!!!!
we had a little over 100 mods sold in this co-op - must be lots of cameras on strike
If you show me yours I will show you mine! Damn, I have already shown mine.
Ok, your turn.
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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If you show me yours I will show you mine! Damn, I have already shown mine.
Ok, your turn.
but i don't have one to show
..............
....................Hmmm, well then I guess you will just have to find a suitable alternative then.
exactly!!!!!!!!!!!
we had a little over 100 mods sold in this co-op - must be lots of cameras on strike
opps! Well I'm not known to get things done fast, particularly since I retired ... seems like there's always tomorrow to start it. But over the weekend I got the clear coat on -- this is w/ the 1st coat. They have 6 total know of Rustoleum clear coat.
And I started brushing up on my soldering skills the last couple nights.
But then I was diverted - my wife needed a drying rack for her home-made noodles. So I made this one for her. Well correction - some things get done fast - there is that old line 'happy wife, happy life' and all that.
Here's a couple more that are only getting clear coat for sealer and a bit of gold for the buttons on the black one. They really do go together easy once painted/sealed.
The lipos really do work great!
The lipos really do work great!
Award rewarded for most strangest awesome pictured ejuice "PICKLE" goes to TyCreek
Lipo's are the awesome, mods look niice
Lipo's are the awesome, mods look niice
Wow is all i can say!!! You folks have really made your Tibs look Great!!!
Mine is modest in comparison...just 6 coats of water based satin poly...but its working despite my poor soldering efforts. (had to take it apart 3 times as solder joints gave way) Think i was running the iron too cold as afraid to fry the board. But dang i can dismantle this thing in my sleep now....
Bap your instructions and fine craftsmanship in design made this thing very easy to assemble and it fits great in your hand!!!
Mike we couldnt have done this without your help and advice!!!
Ms Tibs you will be part of us like no other coop!!!
Thank you all for your hard work!
I still have the alumide one to do, and I am still working on my wood mod, (just busted the wood fire button) so as life allows me time I will show off those when they are finished. I will be looking forward to seeing everyone elses.
One question though for everyone. I just ran it through its first charge cycle, and according to the battery level on the DNA it was about two thirds discharged.
It took about 4.5 hours to charge till i got the green light, but when i checked the batteries out of the unit one was at 4.18, and the other was 3.65. I am using the LG 2500 batts. I swapped the batteries from one side to the other and now i have a red light when i hook up the charger.
Am I to assume that one of my bays isnt working properly? Any advice would be appreciated.
Mine is modest in comparison...just 6 coats of water based satin poly...but its working despite my poor soldering efforts. (had to take it apart 3 times as solder joints gave way)
Think i was running the iron too cold as afraid to fry the board. But dang i can dismantle this thing in my sleep now....Bap your instructions and fine craftsmanship in design made this thing very easy to assemble and it fits great in your hand!!!
Mike we couldnt have done this without your help and advice!!!
Ms Tibs you will be part of us like no other coop!!!
Thank you all for your hard work!
I still have the alumide one to do, and I am still working on my wood mod, (just busted the wood fire button) so as life allows me time I will show off those when they are finished. I will be looking forward to seeing everyone elses.
One question though for everyone. I just ran it through its first charge cycle, and according to the battery level on the DNA it was about two thirds discharged.
It took about 4.5 hours to charge till i got the green light, but when i checked the batteries out of the unit one was at 4.18, and the other was 3.65. I am using the LG 2500 batts. I swapped the batteries from one side to the other and now i have a red light when i hook up the charger.
Am I to assume that one of my bays isnt working properly? Any advice would be appreciated.
Check the fuse on the side not charging. If it activates or if you fried it, you will read a high resistance across it. That or a bad solder joint are about the only two things I can think of to cause only one bay to function.
Had my kids help with the paint job on the dual 18650
Sent from somewhere using Tapatalk
Sent from somewhere using Tapatalk
Thanks for that tip Drunk! But I have found the problem, the tab from the battery contact that the fuse is attached too, broke off at the bend. Well glad i got extra fuses and contact as i knew the gorilla in me would come out. Things for me to learn so that the alumide goes smooth....And dang just right when i started getting a good vape from it....
OK. Small issue with one of my Tibs. Need some info about the display of the ohms reading on the Dna.
This unit is working fine, it shows the proper ohms, but the ohms, if 1.0 or less flashes, on and off, and the ohms symbol may or may not be displayed.
Can anyone tell me what's going on.
Is there a loose wire, i.e. 510 connector?
Wonky board?
Other unit works flawlessly.
Thought I would get some advise from anyone of you folks that may know.
Thanks.
This unit is working fine, it shows the proper ohms, but the ohms, if 1.0 or less flashes, on and off, and the ohms symbol may or may not be displayed.
Can anyone tell me what's going on.
Is there a loose wire, i.e. 510 connector?
Wonky board?
Other unit works flawlessly.
Thought I would get some advise from anyone of you folks that may know.
Thanks.
Usually, if the resistance is flashing it means that the DNA can't successfully give the wattage you are asking, ie it is too low for the amount of charge (voltage level) on the battery. Remember the DNA doesnt have "buck" circuitry, it cant lower the voltage any lower than what the battery is putting out. So in this case the resistance will flash, and the DNA will deliver the lowest voltage it can, the actual bat voltage, and the flashing is telling you that you cant achieve the low wattage you are asking for.
You can confirm this by bumping up the wattage. Bump it up until the resistance stops flashing (you have to fire it after making the adjustment for the DNA to recalculate). When it stops flashing, that is the true lowest wattage it can deliver given the current charge of the battery.
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Thanks Mike. You are right, as per usual.
Bumped it up to 15.7, it quit flashing.
Thought I was doing something wrong or a wire was loose.
Great info.
Bumped it up to 15.7, it quit flashing.
Thought I was doing something wrong or a wire was loose.
Great info.
Thanks for that tip Drunk! But I have found the problem, the tab from the battery contact that the fuse is attached too, broke off at the bend. Well glad i got extra fuses and contact as i knew the gorilla in me would come out. Things for me to learn so that the alumide goes smooth....And dang just right when i started getting a good vape from it....
Awesome...just glad it was an easy fix for you.
That minimum wattage is highest on freshly charged battery, the minimum wattage will drop as the battery voltage drops. In other words, as you use up the battery you will be able to get lower wattages.
Remember, wattage is a function of ohms law. You can lower the minimum wattage with a higher resistance coil as well.
Sent from cellphone, excuse brevity.
fyi - our co-op thread has been relegated to the closed co-op section - here's the link in case somebody wants/needs to search it for info
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...bap-3d-printed-mod-contacts-screws-co-op.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...bap-3d-printed-mod-contacts-screws-co-op.html
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